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Sony sub amp wires connecting to Apline high level input harness.
Skimming through this thread.... I did find that my XLT Does have the oem sub harness (truck not equipped with oem subwoofer). Instead of ordering the harness and waiting cant i just splice inito the wires already there on the existing side of the harness? Also i saw somewhere someone mention this is for the trucks without the Auto start/stop. Since i DO have the auto start stop should i not use the harness and just wire it up like a normal install?
Skimming through this thread.... I did find that my XLT Does have the oem sub harness (truck not equipped with oem subwoofer). Instead of ordering the harness and waiting cant i just splice inito the wires already there on the existing side of the harness? Also i saw somewhere someone mention this is for the trucks without the Auto start/stop. Since i DO have the auto start stop should i not use the harness and just wire it up like a normal install?
Auto start/stop does matter too much. I used the signal wires from the OEM plug and ran a remote from the fusebox and my sub stays on when the truck starts/stops.
Yes, you can splice the wires directly without buying the plug-in harness by matching the wire colors.
jbarron74, Hate to bug you on all the measurement questions... but if you could take 2 quick measurements I think that would help a lot of people out including myself.. Right where the sub is what is the top depth and the bottom depth of the box? aand possibly the height on the backside of the box.
jbarron74, Hate to bug you on all the measurement questions... but if you could take 2 quick measurements I think that would help a lot of people out including myself.. Right where the sub is what is the top depth and the bottom depth of the box? aand possibly the height on the backside of the box.
If the OP cant get measurements ill try and get some of mine im making. Im done with the box just have to figure out the wiring. I just built mine for a single 12" shallow mount. The Pioneer one seemed to be one of the shallowest on the market right now. Sub calls for minimum .75 cubit feet air space and optimum being 1 CF. Luckily mine on the box calculator came out to .99 CF before i had to slightly trip the box. I used the minimum 5/8" MDF. Im not going for optimal jusrt some bass so i can tune it out of the door speakers.
On mine i did not full cut out the back wall carpet/insulation. What i did do is cut the little nubs protruding out on the bottom where it meets the floor. They stick out and hold the box away from the back wall. Then i cut along the top of the box and a little on the top sides to let the box slide back an extra inch + for more space. After installing sub i had to alter it because the seat hits the sub ring when you raise the lower part of seat. Also to optimize air space i unclipped the seat fabric at the bottom and bent the tabs on the vertical supports in to clear, and the lower main support bar had some huge welded supports i was able to grind down and get rid of the excess that was in the way. A final fix if you need more space to fold the seat is the main bar at the bottom its a larger dia round tube. Right where the bar would hit the subwoofer ring you can nicely hammer those little areas flatter. It shouldn't hurt strength seeing where the bar is located low by the mounting bolts.
Rough estimate to start id guess 4-4.5" inches on top, 6-7" bottom, i went from rear passenger door to the bracket that starts on the small rear jump seat. Ht i went as high as you can where you hit the little edge on the back wall that sticks out. Then notch a 45* angle to clear the rear window motor. Looking back now i would have raised the motor like the OP did. I thought of that but didn't go that route when i made it.
If the OP cant get measurements ill try and get some of mine im making. Im done with the box just have to figure out the wiring. I just built mine for a single 12" shallow mount. The Pioneer one seemed to be one of the shallowest on the market right now. Sub calls for minimum .75 cubit feet air space and optimum being 1 CF. Luckily mine on the box calculator came out to .99 CF before i had to slightly trip the box. I used the minimum 5/8" MDF. Im not going for optimal jusrt some bass so i can tune it out of the door speakers.
On mine i did not full cut out the back wall carpet/insulation. What i did do is cut the little nubs protruding out on the bottom where it meets the floor. They stick out and hold the box away from the back wall. Then i cut along the top of the box and a little on the top sides to let the box slide back an extra inch + for more space. After installing sub i had to alter it because the seat hits the sub ring when you raise the lower part of seat. Also to optimize air space i unclipped the seat fabric at the bottom and bent the tabs on the vertical supports in to clear, and the lower main support bar had some huge welded supports i was able to grind down and get rid of the excess that was in the way. A final fix if you need more space to fold the seat is the main bar at the bottom its a larger dia round tube. Right where the bar would hit the subwoofer ring you can nicely hammer those little areas flatter. It shouldn't hurt strength seeing where the bar is located low by the mounting bolts.
Rough estimate to start id guess 4-4.5" inches on top, 6-7" bottom, i went from rear passenger door to the bracket that starts on the small rear jump seat. Ht i went as high as you can where you hit the little edge on the back wall that sticks out. Then notch a 45* angle to clear the rear window motor. Looking back now i would have raised the motor like the OP did. I thought of that but didn't go that route when i made it.
Sounds almost identical to mine.
I started with a pioneer ts-swx3002. then cut the front face off and angled it back approx. 1-1.5". I also cut off the little legs. So the top depth is approx. 4" and bottom 6-1/2". I have a solid back window, so no motor. And I cut about 1" off the center seat bolt.
If the OP cant get measurements ill try and get some of mine im making. Im done with the box just have to figure out the wiring. I just built mine for a single 12" shallow mount. The Pioneer one seemed to be one of the shallowest on the market right now. Sub calls for minimum .75 cubit feet air space and optimum being 1 CF. Luckily mine on the box calculator came out to .99 CF before i had to slightly trip the box. I used the minimum 5/8" MDF. Im not going for optimal jusrt some bass so i can tune it out of the door speakers.
On mine i did not full cut out the back wall carpet/insulation. What i did do is cut the little nubs protruding out on the bottom where it meets the floor. They stick out and hold the box away from the back wall. Then i cut along the top of the box and a little on the top sides to let the box slide back an extra inch + for more space. After installing sub i had to alter it because the seat hits the sub ring when you raise the lower part of seat. Also to optimize air space i unclipped the seat fabric at the bottom and bent the tabs on the vertical supports in to clear, and the lower main support bar had some huge welded supports i was able to grind down and get rid of the excess that was in the way. A final fix if you need more space to fold the seat is the main bar at the bottom its a larger dia round tube. Right where the bar would hit the subwoofer ring you can nicely hammer those little areas flatter. It shouldn't hurt strength seeing where the bar is located low by the mounting bolts.
Rough estimate to start id guess 4-4.5" inches on top, 6-7" bottom, i went from rear passenger door to the bracket that starts on the small rear jump seat. Ht i went as high as you can where you hit the little edge on the back wall that sticks out. Then notch a 45* angle to clear the rear window motor. Looking back now i would have raised the motor like the OP did. I thought of that but didn't go that route when i made it.
12-22-2016, 04:14 PM
aand possibly the height on the backside of the box.
