2015 (13th gen) Speaker Upgrade
02-07-2016, 08:29 AM
#71
The 6 3/4 up front and 6 1/5 in the rear lined up perfectly. Dowloaded a factory wiring diagram and had to splice into the factory wires, but everything went smoothly.
The center speaker is a Kicker DSC35. I paid 30 for the pair and asking 20 shipped anywhere from South Dakota.
The center speaker is a Kicker DSC35. I paid 30 for the pair and asking 20 shipped anywhere from South Dakota.
Was hoping that it was the KSC35. The foam surround of the DSC35 won't last long here in FLA with the sun/UV light beating down on it. The KSC35 uses a rubber surround and will last a lot longer.
Thanks anyways.
07-22-2016, 12:22 AM
#72
If you are running 6x9 or 6 1/2" coaxils or 3 way speakers in the front door, be aware that they are indeed crossovered so there is a lack of highs coming from the front door. It is crossovered at 3500hz @12db.
Here's a link where there's a graph of it being RTA'd. A component set would be a much better choice and a 6 1/2" (round) speaker sounds a lot better than a 6x9"
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/ford-f...nville-client/
Here's a link where there's a graph of it being RTA'd. A component set would be a much better choice and a 6 1/2" (round) speaker sounds a lot better than a 6x9"
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/ford-f...nville-client/
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ponchorage (02-04-2023)
07-22-2016, 02:08 PM
#73
If you are running 6x9 or 6 1/2" coaxils or 3 way speakers in the front door, be aware that they are indeed crossovered so there is a lack of highs coming from the front door. It is crossovered at 3500hz @12db.
Here's a link where there's a graph of it being RTA'd. A component set would be a much better choice and a 6 1/2" (round) speaker sounds a lot better than a 6x9"
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/ford-f...nville-client/
Here's a link where there's a graph of it being RTA'd. A component set would be a much better choice and a 6 1/2" (round) speaker sounds a lot better than a 6x9"
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/ford-f...nville-client/
07-25-2016, 07:24 PM
#74
I'm referring to the front door speakers. They have a crossover built into the amp/headunit and there basically aren't any highs (tweeter) signals coming out of the door speakers. They are crossed-over at 3500hz, so only 3500hz and below plays through them. The tweeters on the dash take over from there. So basically be careful not to buy a 3 way or 2 way 6x9 or 6 1/2" for the front door. Your best bet would be to purchase a component set so the midbass driver would be best suited for the door and the tweeter would replace the factory tweeter.
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07-26-2016, 10:32 AM
#75
I'm referring to the front door speakers. They have a crossover built into the amp/headunit and there basically aren't any highs (tweeter) signals coming out of the door speakers. They are crossed-over at 3500hz, so only 3500hz and below plays through them. The tweeters on the dash take over from there. So basically be careful not to buy a 3 way or 2 way 6x9 or 6 1/2" for the front door. Your best bet would be to purchase a component set so the midbass driver would be best suited for the door and the tweeter would replace the factory tweeter.
01-31-2017, 05:40 PM
#76
First, thanks for the info on the doors in my new used 2015 XLT.
Second, a couple pages back someone suggested MDF for in-door speaker rings. Please don't do this. Because of its uniform density, it makes great speaker cabinets. But it's the wrong material to use in applications subject to moisture. If your MDF is not completely sealed from moisture and condensation, both of which will be in your door at some point, then it will absorb water like a sponge and slowly expand into uselessness, while losing structural integrity (it also makes a crappy material for kitchen cabinets for this exact reason, but people still use it go figure). Use plastic, plywood, or cut/planed wood for rack structures, rings, etc. Plywood is great because if you get it wet basically nothing happens.
Second, a couple pages back someone suggested MDF for in-door speaker rings. Please don't do this. Because of its uniform density, it makes great speaker cabinets. But it's the wrong material to use in applications subject to moisture. If your MDF is not completely sealed from moisture and condensation, both of which will be in your door at some point, then it will absorb water like a sponge and slowly expand into uselessness, while losing structural integrity (it also makes a crappy material for kitchen cabinets for this exact reason, but people still use it go figure). Use plastic, plywood, or cut/planed wood for rack structures, rings, etc. Plywood is great because if you get it wet basically nothing happens.
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LANDON21AND1 (02-06-2017),
Scapegoat81 (04-30-2017)
02-02-2017, 01:41 AM
#77
Mass Effect
First, thanks for the info on the doors in my new used 2015 XLT.
Second, a couple pages back someone suggested MDF for in-door speaker rings. Please don't do this. Because of its uniform density, it makes great speaker cabinets. But it's the wrong material to use in applications subject to moisture. If your MDF is not completely sealed from moisture and condensation, both of which will be in your door at some point, then it will absorb water like a sponge and slowly expand into uselessness, while losing structural integrity (it also makes a crappy material for kitchen cabinets for this exact reason, but people still use it go figure). Use plastic, plywood, or cut/planed wood for rack structures, rings, etc. Plywood is great because if you get it wet basically nothing happens.
Second, a couple pages back someone suggested MDF for in-door speaker rings. Please don't do this. Because of its uniform density, it makes great speaker cabinets. But it's the wrong material to use in applications subject to moisture. If your MDF is not completely sealed from moisture and condensation, both of which will be in your door at some point, then it will absorb water like a sponge and slowly expand into uselessness, while losing structural integrity (it also makes a crappy material for kitchen cabinets for this exact reason, but people still use it go figure). Use plastic, plywood, or cut/planed wood for rack structures, rings, etc. Plywood is great because if you get it wet basically nothing happens.
02-02-2017, 05:25 AM
#78
Truth. I got lazy on my install on my old Accord and made MDF baffles and wrapped them in Dynamat. Went in about 2 years later to swap in different mids and I was literally able to pull the baffles off the door in pieces without unbolting them. MDF literally dissolves in water so it's not ideal. I've since just started buying the plastic adapters from Metra or Scosche. I got some in just today for my '16 from Metra and they're actually pretty beefy. I'll wrap them in Dyanamt and they'll be good to go.
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Scapegoat81 (04-30-2017)
02-02-2017, 05:26 AM
#79
Truth. I got lazy on my install on my old Accord and made MDF baffles and wrapped them in Dynamat. Went in about 2 years later to swap in different mids and I was literally able to pull the baffles off the door in pieces without unbolting them. MDF literally dissolves in water so it's not ideal. I've since just started buying the plastic adapters from Metra or Scosche. I got some in just today for my '16 from Metra and they're actually pretty beefy. I'll wrap them in Dyanamt and they'll be good to go.
http://store.audiodesignscg.com/filter-page/?make=13&model=17&syear=289&cfm=Ford&cfmo=%20F150& cfy=2015
02-02-2017, 09:18 PM
#80
Mass Effect
Absolutely! We machine ours out of Expanded PVC.
http://store.audiodesignscg.com/filt...0F150&cfy=2015
http://store.audiodesignscg.com/filt...0F150&cfy=2015
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LANDON21AND1 (02-06-2017)