trogloraptor

Hello fellow ford and audio enthusiasts. As you can see I'm a noob to this site, well I've actually been a forum stalker for about 6 months now reading and researching thread after thread, and I think it has just confused me more, although I have learned tons.

So I come here seeking you professionals help. I am wanting to perform a simple to do upgrade that doesn't involve getting behind the HU or messing with the dash at all. I have very basic knowledge of audio procedure, back in my high school days I messed with it a lot and that's the extent of my knowledge (but its been a minute or two since those days).

So what I want to put in is this powered sub , and from what i understand it accepts both low level and speaker level inputs.So....

Question #1: Is there any kind of wire harness or adapter out there that would let me plug into the factory sub harness and then into the amp? If not ill just tap into the rear speakers. Or could I just tap into this harness somehow, as it is very near where my sub will sit?

#2: Does tapping the amp remote wire into fuse 38 still apply for the 2014 fx4?

#3: Will I need a loc device for this setup to plug in between the rear speakers (or factory sub harness) and the amp?

#4 is there anything else I'm missing to the equation?

Thank you to anyone in advance for the help, as I have spent countless hours reading this forum trying to figure all this out.

TJPlatinumEB

1. There is no adapter. You can just tap into the sub harness itself there in the back seat for the speaker level inputs (read #4 for other options)

2. Yes Fuse 38 will still work. I installed an amp setup in a 2012 about a month ago and a 2014 about a week ago. Both used Fuse 38 with the Add a Circuit. No issues.

3. No you don't have to use a LOC if you are using speaker level inputs. However, there could be some small issues associated with that.

4. The problem with not using a good LOC with bass loss compensation or speaker level inputs is that you are still going to have the signal drop off when you turn up the volume. The factory system reduces the bass frequencies at higher volume levels in an attempt to preserve the speakers. If you were to get a good quality LOC (AudioControl Lc2i for example) you can still use the same signal at the sub amp harness, but won't run the risk of any volume loss through that signal since the LOC will compensate for it.

Lastly, where do you plan on putting that box and sub combo? You just wanting to lay it down under the seat?

trogloraptor

TJ thank you very much for your reply and knowledge.

Yes I just plan on removing the stock wooferand putting it there. from the measurements I have taken it should lay there with a pretty tight fit towards the rear height of it. If you would advise me otherwise please let me know, as you are the one with previous experience with these trucks.

And secondly I was also researching and entertaining the idea of upgrading my door speakers (all 4) with the 682.9 kappas and i would just unhook the stock tweeters.

So my questions would be...
#1 Since it is recommended to use the LC2i, could I just use the LC6i instead and tie it in behind the stock amp? or would I tie it before it? And would this eliminate the need for the LC2i?

#2 Would you guys say that with using the summing and equalizing and all that of the LC6i that there would be enough power from the stock amp to power the kappas enough to match that sub well? (from what i read the kappas a pretty efficient)

#3 Since the kappas come with crossovers pre-installed on them do i not use the crossover on the LC6i? Or vice versa?

#4 TJ since you've installed subs and amps using the stock sub harness, which wires would i use to tap into my amp?

Sorry for all the questions, but that's why I love these forums cause you guys are awesome and knowledgeable. And I figured if down the road I would want to upgrade my door speakers that I might as well do it now and save the $75 it costs to get the LC2i and just tear into my truck once, not twice (hopefully lol)

trogloraptor

So I found this thread on how to wire in the LC6i, will this work with my system, or is there a better way to do it?

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2009-w...40/?styleid=14 post #1

king nothing

1. You could use the lc6i instead of the lc2i, although I would recommend the lc7i instead. It's the same as the lc6i but adds the bass restoration of the lc2i. Whatever you do you will tie in after the stock amp

2. You will only use the lc6i or lc7i if you are planning on using aftermarket amplifiers for all speakers.

3. Without having direct knowledge of the kappas, I'm making an educated guess here. The crossover on most coaxial speakers protects the tweeter from low frequencies. For best sound, you'll need a high pass crossover to keep subwoofer frequencies out of your doors.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Without having direct knowledge of the kappas, I'm making an educated guess here. The crossover on most coaxial speakers protects the tweeter from low frequencies. For best sound, you'll need a high pass crossover to keep subwoofer frequencies out of your doors.

If tapping off the Sony factory amp it should already have a crossover.

king nothing

Unless he sums the signals with the lc6i/7i

trogloraptor

Thanks guys for the help.

Yeah I do plan on summing my system so I can get full potential out it.
And that's great to know about the lc6i cause I definitely want one of these devices to gt rid of the bass roll off. I was looking at the lcq1, but it's so dang expensive.

So I guess I'll get a 4 channel amp too. I'm thinking of getting this one, the rockford fosgate r250x4
I just didn't know if there was a way to tie the lc7i after the stock amp to sum the signal then back into it to have a nice clean signal to go back out to my speakers, but i figured it was a long shot doing something like that.

So is the link I posted in my 4th post the only/best way to tie in the lc7i or how would you guys recommend doing it, or is there another post/guide you can point me towards that would be better.

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this stuff and start installing it, so all your help is appreciated.

And WYO11 hello from a fellow casperite! I just moved from that place two weeks ago.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

That is true. Damn I hate being wrong

king nothing

That diagram in your post looms like the way to go. I would hate to see you spend all that money on the audiocontrol unit and the 4 channel amp and waste it on those infinity speakers. If you were just throwing a set of speakers in the doors off of stock power those infinitys would be fine. If you are going to go with the processor and an amp, you should really look into a nice set of 6.5 components for the front. Look into the JBL p660c components. $120 shipped from sonicelectronix