MVRK

Getting ready to purchase my XLT Supercrew 4WD with EcoBoost and will be gutting it the day I bring it home to do my install, if anybody has had any experiences with the equipment I will be using I would really appreciate reviews on it!

Here's what I will be using:

Signal Processing:
RF 3Sixty to maintain factory head unit (going with 402A)
Arc Audio KEQ5

Amplifiers:
RE Audio ZTX800.4 (mids/highs)
RE Audio DTX1600.1 (subwoofer)

Speakers:
RE Audio SR 6.5C Components (front doors)
RE Audio REX 6.5 Coaxials (rear doors, mostly for fill)

Subwoofer & Enclosure:
RE Audio SEXV210D2 (10" dual 2-ohm voice coils) in a Fox Acoustics vented enclosure (1.25 cu. ft. airspace tuned to 36 hz)

Accessories
Second Skin sound dampening
12 ga. wire to subwoofer
16 ga. wire to mids/highs
4 ga wire to amplifiers
Scosche adapter plates for mids/highs

I plan to remove the carpet from the rear wall of the truck and mount a carpet matched piece of MDF cut to fit the rear wall where I will mount my amplifiers, crossovers and 3Sixty.

I am going to wire my woofer down to 1-ohm as the DTX1600.1 is class D and 1-ohm stable, this will feed the sub 750 watts RMS, I want it to be loud but I don't want to rattle the bolts loose. Hence the single 10" woofer and not dual 12's.

I am hoping I can mount the KEQ5 inside the center console but if not I will probably mount it between the console and the cup holders if space allows. I want the truck to look as stock as possible inside, but sound like a rock concert. Also, I'm hoping the absence of big DVD screen in the dash will shy away potential thieves which is why I am really hoping I can mount the KEQ5 out of sight.

If anybody has any install tips, advice or reviews(good or bad) on any of the equipment I've listed I would love to hear it!

Have a great weekend fellas.

MVRK

Man no responses that's a bummer.

Anyway, I am on the hunt for a different set of components, RE Audio XXX 6.5's.



They are a little more than I want to spend but i think they will be worth it. I've been kicking around the idea of putting components in the rear and dremeling the tweeter mounts myself, just not sure if I really need them back there. I will probably end up with the REX coaxials I listed above.

SHORTSTACK

I had components in the rear doors. It was a bit to much so i removed the tweeters and adjusted the amp to make it more of a midbass driver. It worked well. I would not put coaxials in the back.
Are you going with 2 10"s or just a single? If its just a single, You can tone your front end down to a 400w amp. Also 1600 on a single 10" , you might be over powering it. Whats the reason for the high wattage amps, Are you planning for more in the future? I would run 0 gauge and upgrade the home battery to an xs....

Also, have you dont the big 3 upgrade, i suggest that you do.

MVRK

the DTX1600.1 is rated at 750W RMS at 1 ohm, 1600 is max output.

RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 350 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 550 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm: 750 watts x 1 chan

the ZTX800.4 will do 110 watts x 4 chan. at 2 ohms which would underpower the xxx's by about 40 watts a side so I may look in to a different amp for those.

SHORTSTACK

My opinion on one sub is this, you end up having that one sub do all the work. 2 would balance the load and be a more stable platform to have. Plus its more cone area so you will get more out of it if wired to 1 ohm.

Just remember, just because everything is rated at high wattage doesnt mean you will have it running that high all the time. You cant under power anything man. You can over power though. Never know, those mids might not sound good in your truck. I would suggest that you go and listen to a few component sets before buying them, same with the sub. I made that mistake, i have fosgate components and hate how metallic the tweeters are.

If you have to much of a front stage, it will gill the rear. You have to find a happy medium. Which im doing now. I have 2 8's and it overwhelms the front stage at times. Good luck with your build, k
keep us posted.

MVRK

i dunno i feel like if we were talking about a sealed box then I would need dual subs but I think with 1.25 cu ft of airspace and 36hz port tune that one 10 at 750 watts will have a solid bass offering. I may have to stick with the original components and amp and not up the anty to the xxx's

SHORTSTACK

The smallest miscalculation could throw the sound of the sub way off. Lets say, it is supposed to be tuned at 34hz per 1.25, a tuning of 36hz may not sound right. There are a lot of variations in car audio. Most of the time you cant just pick something, put it in and it sounds the best that could be in there. 2 are better then 1.... the space we have is very limited, you can get smaller subs, 6.5 (american bass) or sundown audio makes an 8" as well they have a 6.5 in production... Bigger woofers are a thing of the past for SQ...
http://www.reaudio.com/products/woofers_sex.php

MVRK

After a good friend told me about experiences with RE since being purchased by US Amps, I've scrapped the RE build. Was so close to ordering, too glad I didn't do it.

New build is actually quite different.

Gonna go against every other stereo I've had and go Rockford Fosgate on this one and will have a box built, probably do fiberglass floor on it to increase airspace and make sure I can get the fit I want.

This build plan cuts out the 3sixty.2 and the KEQ5 and replaces with 3sixty.3

Amps:
RF R1200.1D
RF 400.4D

Speakers:
RF T2652S Components
(rears will either be coaxials or T2652S woofers)

Subwoofer:
RF T1D210

0 Gauge wire to a distro block with 4 gauge to each amp and will definitely be doing a big 3 upgrade as well.

I won't have my truck for awhile so I may go to the power series RF amps since I will have plenty of time to get the money together, but who knows, it's not a competition stereo or anything so I think the amps listed would do fine, we'll see.

Set_da_Hook

You will love the 360.3. I have only had my truck for a couple weeks so I haven't installed my system yet but used itin my challenger. The sound quality you can achieve using it is amazing. Do you plan on running an active front stage or using the x-overs that come with the T-2's? Good luck with the build.

MVRK

I was planning on using the crossovers, may go active down the road but who knows. I am not going to run coaxials in the rear, gonna get the punch power 6.5 mid bass drivers insteas