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2013 FX4 with Sony Nav, system prep

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Old 05-30-2015, 05:32 PM
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Default 2013 FX4 with Sony Nav, system prep

I'm getting ready to install my new system and have been researching the forums for the last few weeks on hardware and wiring. So far I've gathered everything I think I need but I wanted to run everything by those that have tackled this install already for any possible items or details I've missed. My truck is a 2013 FX4 SuperCrew with Sony/Navigation/MFT.
This is a list of the hardware I have already aquired:
JL SSI Signal Summing Interface, Audio Control LC2i with AccuBass, Infinity Kappa 6.5" component set for front doors and tweeter replacement, Infinity Reference 6x8 coax (two way) speakers for rear, JL JX360/2 2 channel amp for Infinity component set and a JL JX1000/1d for a future subwoofer install that I haven't decided on yet.
My plan is to run the rear speakers off of the factory Sony amp signal so there's no need for aftermarket amplification there (hence the LC2i rather than one of the processors with 4 or more channels of output).

My plan is to run the front door and tweeter signals out of the Sony amp into the JL SSI to combine their signals. I'll leave the rear outs from the Sony amp alone. From there I'll run the SSI into the LC2i which will hopefully give me a full range signal out into 2 channels via RCA's. Those two main channels will run from the LC2i to the JX360/2 and then from the JX360/2 out to the passive crossovers for the front components. The LC2i also has a subwoofer out in the way of two extra RCA outs which I'll send to the JX1000/1d.

I'm hoping that the above will provide me with a clean, clear system and with the eventual addition of a subwoofer or two, a complete sound range. I noticed in my research that a lot of similar systems opt to use a more involved processor like the CleanSweep or Audio Control LCQ1. I'm trying to retain ALL of the function of the factory navigation/head unit, IE: volume control, fading, Sync functions, etc... From what I've seen the CleanSweep is kind of a waste if you don't use the supplied volume **** because it processes the signal from the HU at a single set output range. I'm not interested in using an alternate volume **** as I want to retain the steering wheel controls and volume control from the HU itself. As for the LCQ1, I'm not opposed completely to using one, but if I don't need it, I'd rather not. I'm not looking for competition type sound quality, I just want a good clean, loud system. I'm hoping the AccuBass feature on the LC2i will be enough to regulate the Bass roll off that the factory system employs and the remaining factory DSP will still sound acceptable. Any input or experiences with similar attempts would be much appreciated.

This ain't my first rodeo with aftermarket stereo system installs, but it is my first time messing with the Ford/Sony system or factory DSP units. In the past, I've always installed aftermarket heads and then built the system around that; basically eliminating the entire factory system. Obviously with this set up, I'll be blending aftermarket with factory systems and anytime you do that, you open yourself up to Darwinisms... So if I can learn form those that have already been there and done that, I'd love to save myself the time and effort.

Any tips for wiring, adjusting or integrating this project would be greatly appreciated. Just FYI, for the subwoofers, I'm leaning toward a custom box with two forward facing 8" subs but I'm not dead set on that plan, so if anyone wants to talk me into or out of it I'm all ears.
Old 06-18-2015, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by PistolWhip
I'm getting ready to install my new system and have been researching the forums for the last few weeks on hardware and wiring. So far I've gathered everything I think I need but I wanted to run everything by those that have tackled this install already for any possible items or details I've missed. My truck is a 2013 FX4 SuperCrew with Sony/Navigation/MFT.
This is a list of the hardware I have already aquired:
JL SSI Signal Summing Interface, Audio Control LC2i with AccuBass, Infinity Kappa 6.5" component set for front doors and tweeter replacement, Infinity Reference 6x8 coax (two way) speakers for rear, JL JX360/2 2 channel amp for Infinity component set and a JL JX1000/1d for a future subwoofer install that I haven't decided on yet.
My plan is to run the rear speakers off of the factory Sony amp signal so there's no need for aftermarket amplification there (hence the LC2i rather than one of the processors with 4 or more channels of output).

My plan is to run the front door and tweeter signals out of the Sony amp into the JL SSI to combine their signals. I'll leave the rear outs from the Sony amp alone. From there I'll run the SSI into the LC2i which will hopefully give me a full range signal out into 2 channels via RCA's. Those two main channels will run from the LC2i to the JX360/2 and then from the JX360/2 out to the passive crossovers for the front components. The LC2i also has a subwoofer out in the way of two extra RCA outs which I'll send to the JX1000/1d.

I'm hoping that the above will provide me with a clean, clear system and with the eventual addition of a subwoofer or two, a complete sound range. I noticed in my research that a lot of similar systems opt to use a more involved processor like the CleanSweep or Audio Control LCQ1. I'm trying to retain ALL of the function of the factory navigation/head unit, IE: volume control, fading, Sync functions, etc... From what I've seen the CleanSweep is kind of a waste if you don't use the supplied volume **** because it processes the signal from the HU at a single set output range. I'm not interested in using an alternate volume **** as I want to retain the steering wheel controls and volume control from the HU itself. As for the LCQ1, I'm not opposed completely to using one, but if I don't need it, I'd rather not. I'm not looking for competition type sound quality, I just want a good clean, loud system. I'm hoping the AccuBass feature on the LC2i will be enough to regulate the Bass roll off that the factory system employs and the remaining factory DSP will still sound acceptable. Any input or experiences with similar attempts would be much appreciated.

This ain't my first rodeo with aftermarket stereo system installs, but it is my first time messing with the Ford/Sony system or factory DSP units. In the past, I've always installed aftermarket heads and then built the system around that; basically eliminating the entire factory system. Obviously with this set up, I'll be blending aftermarket with factory systems and anytime you do that, you open yourself up to Darwinisms... So if I can learn form those that have already been there and done that, I'd love to save myself the time and effort.

Any tips for wiring, adjusting or integrating this project would be greatly appreciated. Just FYI, for the subwoofers, I'm leaning toward a custom box with two forward facing 8" subs but I'm not dead set on that plan, so if anyone wants to talk me into or out of it I'm all ears.
I have the same truck and plan to do the same as you with the exception of aftermarket amplified rears. My amps are old school, RF 4080 and a Kicker 750.1. I plan to build a custom box for one 10" and I'm designing it currently. I've modeled it in solidworks but can't get the height needed (yet) to fit the sub. I was looking at going with the Alpine SWT 10" and port it, but I can't get enough box volume to match Alpine's suggested specs. Anyway, were you able to find adapters that will allow you to remove the input plug and output plug from the factory amp in order to prevent wire splicing?
Old 06-22-2015, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Greyhound
I have the same truck and plan to do the same as you with the exception of aftermarket amplified rears. My amps are old school, RF 4080 and a Kicker 750.1. I plan to build a custom box for one 10" and I'm designing it currently. I've modeled it in solidworks but can't get the height needed (yet) to fit the sub. I was looking at going with the Alpine SWT 10" and port it, but I can't get enough box volume to match Alpine's suggested specs. Anyway, were you able to find adapters that will allow you to remove the input plug and output plug from the factory amp in order to prevent wire splicing?

No, there aren't any adapters out there like that. I have a friend that works for American Auto Wire who was going to try to make me a couple custom harnesses, but it just didn't happen. It wasn't worth the aggravation since I was going to end up having to cut it all up to wire the new harnesses in anyway.
Old 06-23-2015, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by PistolWhip
No, there aren't any adapters out there like that. I have a friend that works for American Auto Wire who was going to try to make me a couple custom harnesses, but it just didn't happen. It wasn't worth the aggravation since I was going to end up having to cut it all up to wire the new harnesses in anyway.
Well, hopefully the wire color doesn't change colors from the doors to back at the amp or I'll have to use the multi-meter to locate the correct wire and verify polarity. It's much easier to just go by wire color!
Old 06-23-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Greyhound
Well, hopefully the wire color doesn't change colors from the doors to back at the amp or I'll have to use the multi-meter to locate the correct wire and verify polarity. It's much easier to just go by wire color!
Why not just search this forum for the wiring schematic? It's on here.
Old 06-23-2015, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
Why not just search this forum for the wiring schematic? It's on here.
I tried searching for some but the posts I found had removed or expired attachments. Do you have a link for a 2013 with sony and nav?
Old 06-23-2015, 07:28 PM
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[QUOTE=Greyhound;4218374]I tried searching for some but the posts I found had removed or expired attachments. Do you have a link for a 2013 with sony and nav?[/QUOTE


https://www.f150forum.com/f30/bypass...sp-amp-205013/

Last edited by Wyo11Scab; 06-23-2015 at 07:35 PM.



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