MrSub

Ok, I am guessing that the yellow wire and the black wire are just doubled up in the connector. It is hard to tell from the pictures. My harness is suppose to be here by Wed. I will try to take some pictures as I install for reference.

ginnjuice

Just an update on my setup; knowing that it won't be a permanent solution, I ordered a cheap mini-sub from Amazon.


along with a cheap wiring kit. The sub fits behind the rear seat, without cutting any insulation. I couldn't get the sub to turn on with the autosensing speaker inputs, so I ended up buying a cheapie hi/lo converter from BestBuy, tapped into the speaker wires in the bluetooth harness for the KTP amp, and ran a fuse tap off of fuse38. This gives me RCA's and a remote wire if(when) I decide that I want real amp/sub setup.

Overall, I'm relatively impressed with the cheap little sub. I'm guessing it's probably very similar to the SO from crutchfield. It's a shallow 8" sub, so expectations need to be realistic, but, it sounds better than any factory sub I've had in a vehicle.

raduque

I've ordered the Parrot harness and an Alpine KTP-445u (I might order another one to re-do the audio in my old truck before I give it to my father) so I've got that part covered.

However, I plan on adding a box from Supercrewsound with a shallow 10 and my current Soundstream 300w mono amp. It has speaker-level inputs, but I think I will use a LOC and RCAs. Which channels did you tap for the amp, and which LOC did you buy?

ginnjuice

I bought a cheapie passive LOC from my local BestBuy, it was the only one they carried

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-tw...rter&cp=1&lp=2

Any should do, however.
I tapped into the front speakers. Again, either should do. I chose the front so i could fade out the rear speakers without muting the sub.

BG13f150screw

i hooked up mine the way described here, radio powers up but there is no sound. i checked the power light on the clarion box, no light. what am i missing? one thing i noticed is that the wire gauge on the clarion box is bigger than the one on the parrot wire. is there a step i'm missing. please any help would be appreciated. thanks.

EDIT - so i figured what my problem is i left the blue wire without connecting it. the clarion manual states if there is no sound check for the voltage on the blue(remote turn-on) wire. what do i splice the blue wire to? how does fuse #38 come into play?

ginnjuice

Fuse 38 is the delayed accessory fuse (i think that's what it's labeled). I couldn't find an accessory power behind the the dash that worked, Fuse Tap @ Fuse 38 is perfect.

Abraham5G

[MENTION=134559]Rnlcomp[/MENTION]
Do you know what wire connector is needed for a 2014 with 8" MyFord Touch with factory Nav, no Sony system? Thanks

RLXXI

Sorry but I don't know.


.

Abraham5G

Do you know if I would need two of these if I am adding two seperate amps (1 for door speakers and one for a subwoofer)?

ginnjuice

Assuming that you're installing a 4 channel amp, yes, you'll want two, if for nothing else other than not losing your ability to fade, if that matters. This thread was mainly about either the metra harnesses or the parrot harness, I would hate to get off track on that. Your best bet, doing two separate amps, and not using one of the inline amps (Alpine KTP, Clarion, etc) would be to install an active LOC, AudioControl, JL cleansweep, or similar. I suppose the harnesses this thread is about would allow you to not touch the factory wires as well, I guess to me it just makes more sense for the mini amps more than a full size that requires a separate power anyway.