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I realize it's Sunday and I may not get much movement on this topic but I have a couple questions for those who have done this already.
1) I have a console in my truck. Will I need to disassemble the console to remove the bezel and radio?
2)For Switched 12v, can I tap the red wire in the Parrot harness that runs between the two factory connectors?
3)Sorry, 3 questions. Can I tap that same red wire for the amp turn on as well?
Thanks guys!
BTW, I had my order for the Alpine KTP445U canceled on me, so I went with a Soundstream Stealth ST4.1000D. I know there's no way in hell it's putting out 1000w with a 30a fuse, but that should still be able to give me a good 350-400w peaks and I'm hoping for about 40w clean RMS. Anybody think it would be safe to wire the two power wires and two ground wires into the Parrot harness vs running dedicated ground/power wires?
I realize it's Sunday and I may not get much movement on this topic but I have a couple questions for those who have done this already.
1) I have a console in my truck. Will I need to disassemble the console to remove the bezel and radio?
2)For Switched 12v, can I tap the red wire in the Parrot harness that runs between the two factory connectors?
3)Sorry, 3 questions. Can I tap that same red wire for the amp turn on as well?
Thanks guys!
BTW, I had my order for the Alpine KTP445U canceled on me, so I went with a Soundstream Stealth ST4.1000D. I know there's no way in hell it's putting out 1000w with a 30a fuse, but that should still be able to give me a good 350-400w peaks and I'm hoping for about 40w clean RMS. Anybody think it would be safe to wire the two power wires and two ground wires into the Parrot harness vs running dedicated ground/power wires?
1. I'm fairly certain flow thru consoles require at least some disassembly to get to the radio. I have bucket seats with column shifter, so I couldn't say for sure. Most videos I've seen for flow thru consoles require at least sliding them back to get to the bottom bolts of the dash.
2. I don't think the 12V switched is populated on the OEM side, so it's a dead wire, at least was in my '13 XLT with 4.2" Fuse 38 is where I ended up getting my 12V switched from, I couldn't find one behind the dash. After looking up your amp, you may not need it, I spliced into it in the Parrot harness as well, thinking my Alpine amp would need it, but I'm pretty sure it's auto sensing on, since there's no juice running through that wire.
3. At first I figured that was a full size amp, and was going to advise against trying to power it from the Parrot harness, but, 1000W is a bull**** number for that amp, it looks to be the same as the Alpine or Clarion inline amps, you should be fine powering it with the harness.
Well I finished the harness and today, now I just need to wait for it to another day off to install and test. I didn't wire in the second set of power/ground wires, and I don't know what to do with the ground wires coming off the high-level inputs though.
So just to make sure I'm understanding correctly, the parrot harness is all thats needed, no moving pins or anything?
Correct. You connect the speaker wires from the radio side of the connector (on the right in my pic) to the input on your amp. Then you connect the output of your amp to the speaker wires on the harness side (left side of the pic), and you connect the power to the yellow wire on that side and the ground to the big black wire that runs between the two connector ends that says "Chassis Ground" on it. I recommend an in-line tap.
Note that if your amp doesn't auto-sense with the speaker-level inputs, then you will need to connect your amps Remote Turn-On (usually the blue wire) to Fuse with a fuse tap or an "Add a Circuit".
I did my install a few days ago, and it's working great. I am just waiting for Saturday so I can adjust my gains.
Correct. You connect the speaker wires from the radio side of the connector (on the right in my pic) to the input on your amp. Then you connect the output of your amp to the speaker wires on the harness side (left side of the pic), and you connect the power to the yellow wire on that side and the ground to the big black wire that runs between the two connector ends that says "Chassis Ground" on it. I recommend an in-line tap.
Note that if your amp doesn't auto-sense with the speaker-level inputs, then you will need to connect your amps Remote Turn-On (usually the blue wire) to Fuse with a fuse tap or an "Add a Circuit".
I did my install a few days ago, and it's working great. I am just waiting for Saturday so I can adjust my gains.
Thanks, Ill be doing mine a little differently than you guys. I already have my amps, no inline amp for me, not nearly enough power. I just needed to know if i needed anything else on top of the parrot harness
Done! I used a Clarion XC1410, the parrot harness from the Fiesta, an add a fuse into fuse 38 in the passenger panel fuse box for the remote turn on (blue wire), and a whole lot of heat shrinking butt connectors. Works great and is LOUD. Now to plan the sub...
[MENTION=179120]BStrummin[/MENTION] where can I find the parrot harness from the Fiesta, do you have a link or a part number you could share? Also, do you know if it would work with the 8" MyFord Touch with nav, no Sony?
I've already ordered the Clarion 4 channel amp that will be powering 4 Infiniti Kappas and a Kicker mono amp that will be powering a 12" kicker L7, I plan to somehow wire a LOC to the parrot harness.
10-30-2014, 03:13 PM
