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Old 10-13-2012, 01:19 AM   #1
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Default 2012 FX4 TT SCrew w/ Sony Nav Build - JL Audio

As the thread title suggests, I'm in the middle of installing a JL Audio centric system in my truck at the moment.

I've been reading up for some time, while waiting for the Brown Santa to deliver the goods. I think I've got a decent amount of an understanding of what I'm taking on here, but I wanted to use this thread to bounce ideas off of you more experienced installers/enthusiasts.

Please feel free to correct me in any of my assumptions, as I will say what I am posting throughout this is more of a regurgitation of what I've read, versus actual knowledge.

So ride along with me as I stumble my way through this build.

A few things that put this build a bit apart from most I've previously read on are the following:

1. Sony Nav - Most builds I've read up on have been utilizing the non-nav HU and are tapping into the speaker wires behind the HU via Metra BT5520 Harness. Upon further review, I believe this is NOT what I need to do as I should be tapping into the Sony amp under the center console. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

2. 1/3 Window Motor - I have the sliding window in the back, which includes a large motor right smack dab in the middle of the rear panel. Most builds I saw, didn't have the power sliding rear window, so building the amp rack was much less of a pain.

3. Molex connectors - Damn it, I've got them in my doors. Still looking for a solution to run new speaker wire. Can anyone please point me in the right direction as to how you overcame this?

The following are the pieces I've already gotten a hold of... I'm up for changing them out, if I've got an improper build list. Please speak up if you think so...

Amplifier:
- JL Audio HD900/5 5 Channel Class-D Amplifier

Door Speakers:
- JL Audio C2570x Coaxials (4)

Subwoofers:
- JL Audio 10w0v3 Subwoofers (2)

Processor/LOC:
- JL Audio CL441dsp (Clean Sweep)
- JL Audio CL-SSI (Signal Summing Interface)

Bass/Remote Level Controller:
- JL Audio HD-RLC

Wiring:
- JL Audio 4 Gauge Power Wire (18')
- JL Audio 4 Gauge Ground Wire (18")
- JL Audio XD-CLRAIC4 4 Channel RCA's (18')
- JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2 2 Channel RCA's (18')
- Xscorpion 0/2 ANL Fuse Holder
- Xscorpion 150A ANL Fuse

Amp Rack (Behind the Seats):
- Cardboard (56"x24" to make template)
- 1/2" MDF (Started with 56"x24" sheet)
- 1/4" MDF (to make removable cover for rear window motor)
- Black Carpet

Subwoofer Box (Under the Seat)
- Fox Box (Dual 10")

----------------------------

I'm also considering going with the JL Audio C2 075 tweeters in the a pillars, that or swap out the front C2570x's with a C5 component setup...

Please feel free to give feedback.

This is the biggest job I've taken on in regards to a stereo install. I need all the help I can get!
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Last edited by FX4 TT; 10-17-2012 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:56 AM   #2
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I'll give you my opinion.I'd defineately do the C5's in the doors over the C2's,go with a single W1 sub unless you really want to just blow that power back glass out,and go with a Jl HD 700/5. If your not happy then i'd add the processor.I think the speakers are worth every penny,and the 700 is more than enough to power this system and save a few $$.Also just use the factory speaker wire in the doors,mine works just fine.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:39 PM   #3
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I believe I can help u out a bit. The amp rack is easy to do. I have same setup as u. Built mine just fine. Just gotta lay everything out to make sure it fits.
The molex connectors actually r easy to unhook, then the female housing u can turn it a bit then it will pop in. I pulled one side out and drilled a hole on the side that does not interfere w the connection. Ran speaker wire thru it into rubber boot to door speaker. First one was a bitch, and I actually broke a piece off. Second one was a piece of cake.
As for speaker wire, like above said, just use existing wiring. Use ur speaker to get to lci6, then tap back into factory wiring.
And yes, u will want to tap in under console passed the factory amp. Here is wiring for 2011, hopefully the same.
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2012 FX4 TT SCrew w/ Sony Nav Build - JL Audio-image-26123619.jpg   2012 FX4 TT SCrew w/ Sony Nav Build - JL Audio-image-2229200156.jpg  
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Regular Cab View Post
I'll give you my opinion.I'd defineately do the C5's in the doors over the C2's,go with a single W1 sub unless you really want to just blow that power back glass out,and go with a Jl HD 700/5. If your not happy then i'd add the processor.I think the speakers are worth every penny,and the 700 is more than enough to power this system and save a few $$.Also just use the factory speaker wire in the doors,mine works just fine.
Yeah, I really have been second guessing my C2's for the fronts. Once I get everything in, I will consider the swap. I at least have to hear how it sounds currently to get a starting point.

I'm just looking for really clean sounding bass, and if you think going with 1 sub over 2 will accomplish this, than I'll do it. I'd also benefit from the additional space under the seats. I could also spring for a higher quality sub, like you are referring to.

You really think I should drop to the 700/5? All of the parts listed are in my possession already. I'd have to return the 900/5 and then order the 700/5, not a huge deal, especially if it'll save close to $400.

So where did you tap into your speaker wires? After looking up your threads, I believe you have a non-nav setup. I'm assuming you tapped into them from behind the HU with a BT5520 harness, ran them down to the LC6i and then out from the amp to the other side of the harness?

I think I may have to do this, but without a harness, and out from the Sony Amp under the center console.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Belushi View Post
I believe I can help u out a bit. The amp rack is easy to do. I have same setup as u. Built mine just fine. Just gotta lay everything out to make sure it fits.
The molex connectors actually r easy to unhook, then the female housing u can turn it a bit then it will pop in. I pulled one side out and drilled a hole on the side that does not interfere w the connection. Ran speaker wire thru it into rubber boot to door speaker. First one was a bitch, and I actually broke a piece off. Second one was a piece of cake.
As for speaker wire, like above said, just use existing wiring. Use ur speaker to get to lci6, then tap back into factory wiring.
And yes, u will want to tap in under console passed the factory amp. Here is wiring for 2011, hopefully the same.
Appreciate it Belushi! Badass truck! I kept seeing your avatar pop up, as I've been lurking! Looks tough!

Thanks for the pics of your amp rack. Mine's mostly done, but the main difference between ours, is that mine comes up a bit higher and surrounds the window motor. It's 20"x56". Got any pics of yours installed? I wanted to cover as much of the insulated carpet as possible, as my black carpet, is much darker...just like yours.

How did you mount your rack to the back panel? Did you fish a bolt through an existing hole, or did you screw into it?

Anyway you'd be able to draw a quick wiring diagram of what you are saying...I'm pretty sure I've got it, but want to verify.

What's your opinion on 1 or 2 subs?

Thanks for the tips on how to get through the molex connector. I get what you're saying.
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'12 F150 FX4 SCREW Ecoboost - Build Thread and Mod List
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:49 PM   #5
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For clean sounding bass they are awesome! I am basing my opinion on my truck which is a little different than yours because mine is a regular cab.I'm using the C5's in the doors and a HD500/3 to power them and my sub which is the 10W1V2-4 in a sealed 1.25 cu.ft. JL box.I figure with the 700/5 to power your setup it would be EVERY bit as nice sounding and loud and clear as mine .You'll have 2 more speakers than me,and an added wattage to power them.And yes,mine is just the base head unit and i tied into the speaker wires at my kickpanels,and added a simple RCA line level adaptor to plug the amp into.Mine is also a 2012 with the a-pillar tweeters,so that's where the C5's make it easy.Just slightly sand the inside of the holes,and they will slip rite in.If your wanting a really nice clean quality sound you'll love them.If your wanting the very loudest thump,this ain't it! But it will get pretty dang loud,and clear as a bell.Here's a pic of the tweeters.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:49 PM   #6
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nice
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:07 PM   #7
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Appreciate it Belushi! Badass truck! I kept seeing your avatar pop up, as I've been lurking! Looks tough!

Thanks for the pics of your amp rack. Mine's mostly done, but the main difference between ours, is that mine comes up a bit higher and surrounds the window motor. It's 20"x56". Got any pics of yours installed? I wanted to cover as much of the insulated carpet as possible, as my black carpet, is much darker...just like yours.

How did you mount your rack to the back panel? Did you fish a bolt through an existing hole, or did you screw into it?

Anyway you'd be able to draw a quick wiring diagram of what you are saying...I'm pretty sure I've got it, but want to verify.

What's your opinion on 1 or 2 subs?

Thanks for the tips on how to get through the molex connector. I get what you're saying.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the compliments. I live this truck. I think my amp rack is 14"x48". I will get u pics tomorrow. Be careful how high u go. The back of seat will hit some components if they r too thick. I can't fold bottom of passenger all the way up due to thickness of my sub amp. Kinda sucks. I used self tapping screws for top, and the bottom I used bolt/nut on the bracket oem bracket. I use iPhone app, so no diagram. But it's easy. Just tap into speaker wires under console coming out of factory amp, run these wires to ur lci6, then ur preamp to amp, then speaker wire from amp to factory speaker wires. I ended up using about 80' total of speaker wire, so make sure u have plenty. As for subs, I'm clueless. I haven't got my sub hooked up yet. Will b doing that tomorrow. I went w 1 10" sundown audio. I will try and get u pics of everything tomorrow.
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:59 PM   #8
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Behold, a masterpiece!

Just in drawing this up, I think I found a few flaws, but I want to run it by you guys.

The Navy Blue lines represent the factory speaker wire, and the red "x" are where each cut will be made. I'll take the Sony amp side of the wire, and run the Lime Green speaker wire into the LC6i (should be LC8i since I have front tweeters, right?) and will run the Purple RCAs out into the JL amp. From the JL amp, I'll run the Dark Green speaker wire back to the speaker side of each cut.

I'll run Red a 12v switched remote from the #38 fuse back to the "remote in" of the LC6i. I'll then run out a Baby Blue remote wire to the amp.

I'm realizing that I'm not mentioning the factory tweeters. I assume these will be wired off of the Sony Amp as well. Could I just leave them untouched, until I go with an LC8i? If I go with a C5 component setup, will the crossover's negate the need to go with an LC8i or further create the need for one?

Sorry for the noob questions, as this is unfamiliar territory.

Also, if I'm understanding this correctly, I can just cut into the speaker wires closer to the amp, and therefore wouldn't have to run as much wire. Just off the Sony amp, and into the LC6i, the JL amp, and then back to the cut after the Sony amp... Is this true?

I could just use the wiring code posted above.

I had previously found that, but am unsure of the rules regarding posting links to other sites, so I left it out. Thank you however Belushi for posting the screen shot.

Without furher ado.....

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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'12 F150 FX4 SCREW Ecoboost - Build Thread and Mod List
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:37 PM   #9
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That looks good to me. I believe, but not sure, that having the components w the crossover, u won't need the lci8. I didn't use mine. Bc from the aftermarket amp ur wire runs to crossover then component set.
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belushi View Post
That looks good to me. I believe, but not sure, that having the components w the crossover, u won't need the lci8. I didn't use mine. Bc from the aftermarket amp ur wire runs to crossover then component set.
Thanks man! I appreciate it!

I read up on all of your threads this morning. Looks like you just finished it all up.
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'12 F150 FX4 SCREW Ecoboost - Build Thread and Mod List
Race Red, Appearance Package, Luxury Package, Sony Nav, Moonroof, Tailgate Step
aFe~Bak~Bedrug~Bilstein~JL Audio~MPT~Rigid Industries~SCT~SVT
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