Guinness68

Whelp, I finally started on my project. My plan is to do as much as I can piece by piece before finally cutting over from the HU.

So, last night I installed the 4ga power wire from the battery to the rear wall.

In my truck, there are two unused holes on the battery side of the truck. The first one (red arrow) goes NO WHERE! Don't use it. I was able to feed about 12" of cable , but it must just go deep into the dash to a place I can't seem to find. Spent about 45 minutes on that. Then I saw another hole... (green arrow) pulled the grommet and feed wire in. This came out under the carpet and was easily fed into the side of the cab. My suggestion: Use the Green arrow location and not the red arrow.

I've seen that most of you take your power cable and run it in the wire carrier already in place. I, instead, put it outside of that, providing that much more insulation between all the wires in the carrier and my big 4ga power cable. It fit fine once I figured out how easy the door weather stripping came off.

Anyways... that's my Day #1.

amick218

I used the green arrow too, well xrobber did (member who installed my system) lol.

Guinness68

Well... completed Day 2 of this build/install.

Yesterday was the day to install the amps and DSP. Next is speaker wiring and install. Then build new sub box, tune, and be done!

The back board install took the better part of a full day. The hard part was working around all the existing wiring, mechanics.

I didn't have enough dynamat to completely to the back wall, but I did have two spare sheets, so I cut them into strips and pasted them on in strategic places. Hopefully, rogue vibrations will get dampened by my strips.

Lesson learned: Don't cut the back insulation exactly to the shape of the board. A little bit extra in some spots and I could have secured it to the board. Instead, it's floating. Duct take to the rescue, but not until I'm completely done.

The seats, when in the raised position, touch both amps. I'm not worried about it, but don't like it. Wish there was just a 1/4" more room. I used 1/2 MDF for the mounting board.

Wiring as much as I could, and mounting components was key. A lot easier than trying to do all that inside the cab.

Question: I have to do my 9-wire from the stock HU; and them my speaker wires. I have the amp cable on the passenger side. Do Not run either wires along the same channel as the amp power, right? Suggestions welcome here.

Thanks!

JoeBoost

Did you seat go back up without hitting amps? I had issues with that after I sound deadened the rear wall and carpeted the amp board. Had to center the amps between the seat backs and bend some metal.

lizardking1

I ran my 18 gauge 9 wire up through the middle under center console. I ran my power wire on passenger side as well, but under the seat instead along wiring harness under the scuffs.

Guinness68

Yes it touches. On the Passenger side, and because the top part of the board isn't secured, the board bends slightly. So as the amp is pushed, the board behind it gives. On the other side, the sony amp as a slight nick from the seat. But it's on the plastic and not need. I may later bend or grind some of the seat metal away for a better fit.

Good idea: Run it under the carpet through the middle. That keeps HU speaker level and Amp speaker level separate.

What about the passenger side amp speaker level wire. How should I keep the wire away from the amp power cable? Cross at 90 degrees only, right? (I read that somewhere).

GrnMachine210

You really dont have to worry about running cables to close together if you have good cables that dont allow any noise to enter the system. Ive only had that problem when using knock off brands.

amick218

I was going to say the same. Mine are all bundled into one huge roll and ran under the flooring in the middle of the cab. Except my main power line goes from batt under passenger door sill to inside my jack housing where the ground and distro block is.

Guinness68

First off.... MAJOR PROPS to this forum and its members!!!

I decided to do some prewiring last night. Just rear doors. And then I was stuck... I couldn't get the rear panel off. Youtube search, other F150 forums showed me for other models, but not 2011 and the other's weren't specific enough to help. Then Google hit on this forum and there was even a diagram. I was panicked 'cause it was well past dusk and I hadn't done the other side yet. It was such a blurr, i don't even remember who to thank. Awesome. Saved my ***, big time!

So... I wired my rear doors. For those who are doing that, note: On my truck, there was a gasket in the door pillar that I wasn't expecting. So, heads up. Picture below.

Next is a question...
See the door pic. Should I dynamat the doors? It seems as if Ford already has with this rubbery plastic stuff. I have 4 sheets left for the doors, but when I opened it up, I questioned if I should do it or not.

JoeBoost

I always do with an additional layer of closed cell foam but thats just me. Only need about 25% coverage with dynamat so dont go crazy.

"Sound deadening" is often misunderstood and there are really two things you need to accomplish. First is controlling resonance which boils down to stopping vibrations and this is where dynamat and similar products come into play. While they do cut down on noise they do not do a good job of blocking sound. People try to accomplish this with covering every square inch with the stuff but it really just a waste of time and money. To stop panel resonance typically only 25% coverage is needed. "Soundproofing" done right is accomplished with an additional layer of closed cell foam layer and a thick sheet vinyl (mass loaded vinyl) applied to door skins and the inside of panels, floors, roof, etc. over the vibration dampening material. While this is more than most of us need to do - dont expect a few sheets of dynamat to make your truck significantly quieter on the inside.

The factory plastic is just a moisture barrier and pretty much does nothing for sound deadening/proofing.

I noticed a huge difference after installing the foam over the dynamat (RAAMat in my case).