2011 F150 FX4 w/Sony upgrade start
#1
2011 F150 FX4 w/Sony upgrade start
Finally my truck has arrived, and can get to my upgrade of the Sony system. I will be keeping the HU, but the rest of the system needs to go.
System
Audiocontrol LC8i
Alpine MRX-V60 5-channel Amp
Infinity 6809CS 270W (Peak) 6 x 8 / 5 x 7 -Inch Two-Way Speakers
Infinity 6829CF 300W (Peak) 6 x 8 / 5 x 7 -Inch 2-Way Speakers
Infinity Reference 8-Inch 1000-watt High-Performance Subwoofer
Here is the truck when I got it home.
Got back seat out, which was a fun 30 mins, but was able to trip the attachment clips with a screwdriver. There is a small hole in the bracket you can access from the front of the seat when you lift the back cusion up, and push the clip back.
Got the Alpine v60 5 channel amp and LC8i temporarily mounted to check on clearance. Will be updating as the install continues.
System
Audiocontrol LC8i
Alpine MRX-V60 5-channel Amp
Infinity 6809CS 270W (Peak) 6 x 8 / 5 x 7 -Inch Two-Way Speakers
Infinity 6829CF 300W (Peak) 6 x 8 / 5 x 7 -Inch 2-Way Speakers
Infinity Reference 8-Inch 1000-watt High-Performance Subwoofer
Here is the truck when I got it home.
Got back seat out, which was a fun 30 mins, but was able to trip the attachment clips with a screwdriver. There is a small hole in the bracket you can access from the front of the seat when you lift the back cusion up, and push the clip back.
Got the Alpine v60 5 channel amp and LC8i temporarily mounted to check on clearance. Will be updating as the install continues.
#2
Spent the past two days working on the system, and have it up and running. Since allot of information is already on this site, especially blackknight87's thread, which helped me alot. I will just hit a few highlights, and low points of the install.
First I had the dreaded molex connectors. The back doors where not a problem, since the connector has a couple holes in it already. I had no problem fitting 14g speaker wire thru them, as long as it didn't twist.
Here is a shot of the rear Sony speakers.
The wire runs, and speaker installs in the doors and sound deadening was pretty straight forward, and well covered in other post. Though I did try the "Lowes Peel and Stick" instead of Dynamat, which seems to work fairly well.
The A-pillar tweeters where a bit time consuming. The factory tweeter is a little over a 1/4 inch deep, and just under a inch across. After removing it, and trying to get the replacement tweeters installed I found that there is very little clearance behind the tweeter mount due to mounting brackets for the curtain airbag cylinder. I had to use a dremel tool to enlarge the hole to accommodate the new tweeter. Which to say was a nerve-wracking experience with a 3 day old truck.
Back side of A-pillar with new tweeter
A-pillar installed
For the radio hookup I pulled the center console to get to the Sony amp. I removed the center plug and disconnected all the old speaker lines, then tapped into each line with a metra multi conductor line back to the LC8i. I ran separate lines from the tweeter wires and summed them into the main speaker channel.
Before.
After.
After putting everything back together, mounted the trimmed rear wall cover, adjusted the system and put the seat back in.
Overall , pretty happy with the final install, a bit time consuming but well worth it.
First I had the dreaded molex connectors. The back doors where not a problem, since the connector has a couple holes in it already. I had no problem fitting 14g speaker wire thru them, as long as it didn't twist.
Here is a shot of the rear Sony speakers.
The wire runs, and speaker installs in the doors and sound deadening was pretty straight forward, and well covered in other post. Though I did try the "Lowes Peel and Stick" instead of Dynamat, which seems to work fairly well.
The A-pillar tweeters where a bit time consuming. The factory tweeter is a little over a 1/4 inch deep, and just under a inch across. After removing it, and trying to get the replacement tweeters installed I found that there is very little clearance behind the tweeter mount due to mounting brackets for the curtain airbag cylinder. I had to use a dremel tool to enlarge the hole to accommodate the new tweeter. Which to say was a nerve-wracking experience with a 3 day old truck.
Back side of A-pillar with new tweeter
A-pillar installed
For the radio hookup I pulled the center console to get to the Sony amp. I removed the center plug and disconnected all the old speaker lines, then tapped into each line with a metra multi conductor line back to the LC8i. I ran separate lines from the tweeter wires and summed them into the main speaker channel.
Before.
After.
After putting everything back together, mounted the trimmed rear wall cover, adjusted the system and put the seat back in.
Overall , pretty happy with the final install, a bit time consuming but well worth it.
#5
Senior Member
Ok. So i have the same sony stock amp like you and i also have a stock sub with a amp. I was thinking of tapping in the wires before the stock amp under the console. Its the left plug. Would this work? Also im only adding a sub amp and woofer only and removing the stock sub/amp. Im not amplifing the doors speakers. I want to keep the stock.
#6
Could just tap the rear speakers for a line level signal for the sub if it has line level inputs, there are openings in the molex connector in rear doors, those ones are easier than pulling console
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#8
Do you know the wire colors for the power, ground, and audio for the OEM sub going into the Sony amp? I bought a Rockford Fosgate RF-BLD Line Driver, and I need to tap into the wires leading into the Sony amp so that I can run them to my aftermarket amp. And does the Sony amp power the door speakers too, or just the sub?
Last edited by kchyde; 09-22-2011 at 12:42 PM.
#9
Do you know the wire colors for the power, ground, and audio for the OEM sub going into the Sony amp? I bought a Rockford Fosgate RF-BLD Line Driver, and I need to tap into the wires leading into the Sony amp so that I can run them to my aftermarket amp. And does the Sony amp power the door speakers too, or just the sub?
VIOLET/GREEN +
GREEN/WHITE -
#10
You'll need to run power and ground, you won't be able to get them from the Sony Amp. The Sony amp powers all the speakers. Unfortunately, you will have to tap signal after the amp, not before because of the CAN BUS system that caries the signal from the HU to the Sony amp. Depending on what you are trying to power, you may be going about your connections the wrong way if you are just using a line driver. The Sony system is a 2 way up front, you need some sort of signal summing devise to get full range signal unless you are just wanting to connect a subwoofer. If you want to connect the amp just for a sub signal you'll have the factory EQing the signal and the output level varies at different volume levels, IE is not linear. Wires to tap for subwoofer signal:
VIOLET/GREEN +
GREEN/WHITE -
VIOLET/GREEN +
GREEN/WHITE -
Last edited by kchyde; 09-23-2011 at 10:19 AM.