TANDC

Tired of posts about people paying for the Sony system upgrade, and then it never being good enough? Me too. But here's another wall of text.

Before I start, I should say that I've read a considerable amount of info and still have yet to locate anything along the lines of what I'm asking. Just looking for some more friendly advice. This is a 2010 fx4 screw with the sony system without nav.

Also, whatever I do I'm somewhat leaning towards paying someone to install it. Assume I have no knowledge of car audio.

That out of the way, I've poly filled the sub according to this thread and, if for any reason you haven't done it, please do. It makes a considerable difference and couldn't be any easier.https://www.f150forum.com/f38/how-ma...-better-77667/

Truth be told, I love the way it sounds at about 1/4 volume. My beef is with the sub cutting out at beyond 50%. All I'm looking to do is give it the same sound at all volumes.... for as cheap as possible without sacrificing any more space inside the cab and retaining the factory head unit and steering wheel controls. Is this even possible?

I read in the thread above some vague things people have done, but no real detail. If you have any experience with this, please help me to understand what I can do to save this system. Any help is greatly appreceated... and thank you to anyone who took the time to work their way through this wall of text.

TANDC

One last thought, I absolutely adore this setup.https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2012-sub-upgrade-began-today-137577/

But would this work on a 2010 where the amp is mounted on the side of the sub and not in the center console?

My only real beef what that setup is that you drop 700 bucks (2 subs and a cleansweep... plus instal since I'm incompetent.) for a system I'm not even sure sounds a ton better than factory(but you do get the area on your floor back)

TANDC

Everyone must just be sitting back anxiously awaiting me to screw this up. SO BE IT.

I've decided to slowly back my way into etazeta's setup listed in the thread above. I went ahead and ordered the SO b-8pt along with the lc2i although I'm not entirely sure I need it. I'm going to install b8 on the opposite side of the factory sub and see if it helps wake up the entire system. Should that be the case I'm only out sub 300 bones with an install I think I can handle.

A couple questions, your input is greatly appreciated.

From a 2010 standpoint(which has the amp mounted to the side of the factory sony sub) Would I need an lc2i like etaz uses?

if not, Is it plausible that I could run both the factory sub AND the b8 without using the lc2i? (say I split the low level in front of the amp and ran two rcas to the b8 and the other two to the amp.)


Thanks in advance for your help.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Yes split it and see how it works out

TANDC

I hope that isn't sarcasm. My knowledge of audio components(or severe lack thereof) is not equipped to accommodate such variamables.

stormsearch

Personally, I wouldn't keep the OEM sub and the SO 8" together unless you are just checking out the SO sub seperately. The LC2i requires speaker level inputs from what I understand, but have 0 direct experience. I don't think it will work with the OEM amp input signal. You will want the signal after OEM amp.

However, to ensure there is no bass roll-off I would recommend tapping into the front speaker wires as I'm sure the LC2i does some summing to give a flat response for your SO 8".

Also, you only need one RCA output for 1 sub, no splitter required.

Sorry, I'm not going to discuss how to run both the SO 8" and the OEM sub.

TANDC

Just another thought: Doesn't the factory sony amp have to have power running to it? If that is the case, is there any need to run a separate line up to the battery or can I tap that wire somehow to provide power to the SO?

(remember, this is the 2010, so the amp is mounted on the side of the sony sub)

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

All this talk about bass roll off. If you add a sub and amp and upgrade the factory door speakers you will have more bass than you know what to do with.
I would personally remove the factory sub and use the wiring to put in an aftermarket one and new amp.
No need to run everything through a LC2 or .......whatever.

TANDC

We'll find out tomorrow. I'm guna try a few things and see what sort of results I can produce. I'm hoping just replacing the stock sub and amp with the SO(like you've suggested) will make everything come together(and because of the addition of a remote bass level control, eliminate roll off) AND give me the area under my seats back.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

The remote bass level control will do nothing for the bass roll off. What they mean by bass roll off is as the volume increases on your HU the bass frequencies are reduced. The remote bass level control will control the bass level in your new sub. Turn the level on the amp up all the way and then control it with your remote bass ****.