Pricecheck7

Alright, I'm new here and I have a system I'm installing soon. I'm not in town yet but have all of my stuff at home waiting on me.

I currently have a Pioneer 2300DVD deck and have bought the following items...
Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel amp
Infinity Kappa 680.9cs component set for the front doors
Infinity Kappa 682.9cf for the rear doors
Streetwires 1/0AWG wiring kit
Power Acoustik 2Farad Cap
Dynamat extreme bulk kit
Streetwires 4-channel 5series RCA's
Streetwires 2-channel 5series RCA's
Streetwires 12-gauge speaker wire
Streetwires 5series Y-Connectors (x2)
Four boom mats for the door speakers
Mean Machine 2500.1 Class D amp (until I can afford a bigger amp)
Alpine SWR-10D2 subs (x2)

I currently have the premier sound package in the truck and will be selling it once this system gets started. I'll be installing an amp rack behind the rear seat and the two subs downfiring in a self built box. I'll also be installing a small rear seat lift (homemade). I am using Y-connectors for my 5-channel since I only have two sets of preamp outputs on my head unit. I am not using the 5th channel on my Alpine amp because I want a little more power than it provides.

I will only be dynamating the inner part of the doors and the back wall. I'm not going for extreme competition but do want my quality to be good. I will be posting some stuff on my build such as measurements between the rear wall seatbelt bar and the side wall to show how much room there is back there. I also have a powered rear window. I'll do measurements of the cab to give people an idea of how much surface area there is. I only find peoples builds and the outcome. I never see dimensions or anything of the sorts.

Me being away from my truck and my house has left me roaming the internet in search of these things. All I have to do while I'm away is plan this build and have my wife take all of my measurements.

My box will have 2" clearance underneath and the subs will downfire. The magnets will stick out some and I'll fiberglass that area. Once that is complete, I will carpet the box. The overall inner volume should be sitting at 1.367cuft w/o the subs installed.

Anyways... not until after July 15th I will be started.

GrnMachine210

nice setup man, would ditch the cap though. Looking forward to the install. Dont forget to do the Big 3 also.

Pricecheck7

I have heard a lot about not using a cap. To tell you the truth, I haven't had a system in probably 12 years and back then I had an old punch 200 amp and two 12" dvc's! That sucker slammed. I never had a cap back then but they were the recommended thing. Now throughout helping a buddy do a complete install on a 2012 Camaro SS, it gave me the itch to do an install. He has a cap and I said why the hell not.

Back to hearing things about them.... I've been reading that they're over rated and such. Does it cause any negative things if I have it hooked up? The amount spent for it was practically nothing and if it won't cause harm to the setup, I might as well use it. If it does, I'll sell it. I definitely will be doing the big three. Makes plenty of sense and it's too easy to do.

Change to the build.... When I return I will be pulling out my Pioneer 2300DVD and selling it for about $175. I will be buying a Pioneer 4400. (Like having 3 preamp sets, higher preamp voltage, larger screen, and more gizmos that I'll never use) My bro-in-law needed recommendation on a cheapish deck and I recommended this to fit him and his price range. Well, this turned into me wanting it also.

In a couple of weeks the build will commence. (I'm like a kid who peeked at his Christmas presents about three weeks early and is excited to play with them but he can't)

JoeBoost

Nothing detrimental about using a cap. IMO its just masking what should really be done - ensuring your alternator can handle system load, adding second battery and doing big 3. It's a cheaper alternative for sure.

GATORB8

Whether or not you get the new HU, there is no need for the Y splitters. The Alpine amp will use the front RCAs for the rear outputs and you can fade by gaining down the rears during tuning.

Droop408

What's the big 3? I'm in the process of building a system for my screw also running 2 amps and I'd bet I'd have to do the big 3 also, if I knew what it was.

GATORB8

https://www.f150forum.com/f75/how-bi...ighlight=big+3

Droop408

^^Thanks

Pricecheck7

Alright… the build started a few days ago. A few things caused me to deviate from my original plans. Well, the heat and the lack of slowing down caused me to not take many pictures. It has been over 104 degrees every day and it's kicked my butt.

I did take note of tools used and measurements of key areas like the doors and the back wall usable space for an amp rack.

So far I have dynamatted my doors with one layer and installed all of the door speakers except for on my drivers door (not enough wire to run from mid to crossover and tweeter to crossover). I also dynamatted the back wall and I have an amp rack up there. The Pioneer 4400 is installed along with the backup camera and all things plugged in, to include the relay to bypass the parking brake. I had to cut the back wall carpet to allow the amps to breathe. I also had to cut the tweeter hole larger to fit my Infinity Kappa tweets.

My sub box is coming along great. I didn't have to install a seat lift to fit these Alpine Type-R 10's and I'm going to have right around .60cuft each! In addition, I don't have a box sticking out 2"-3". In order to do this, I took my rubber mallet and banged the bottom of the seat pan. This made no difference in the way it looks or the way it feels. Now, my woofer magnet does stick through the top of the box but I have my fiberglass curing as we speak. It is my first time to glass anything but these little humps that cover the magnet look sweet. I still have to trim them up and then carpet it.

The pictures that I'll be including will mostly be just the rear wall and sub enclosure build. I'll put down the tools that I used for the build and where they were applied. Right now I just have to get a little rest.

I did have to order more 1/0AWG wire and more 12 gauge wire for my driver door and sub wire. I am still waiting on my sub amp since the dealer sent me the wrong one.

Another learning point…. I learned that the flow through center console has the air duct taking up a large portion of the inside. This discouraged me from wanting to install an 8" sub in the console in the future. I want to keep the rear air and have a sub and I think the only way of doing it is making a new duct and having it be two single ones that hug the upper and outer edges of the center console. That's another project in its own.

Anyways, that's my update. When I get the desire I'll post up my tools used, measurements taken and some pics.

Pricecheck7

About the homemade lift… I see that you would basically need the front lifted to allow more clearance for the subs. You can bolt down the rear of the seat bottom and flex the front of the seat upwards and install a lift of about an inch. Problem with this is it throws off the alignment of the bolt holes and won't work that way. You have to lift the seat all at once. But like I stated in the above comment, no lift was needed and I have 2" clearance below the box/1" below the woofer.