chris_bryan_89

So like it says I have my mind set on two of the Memphis 15-SC10D4's in a supercrewsound box... I'm very new to car audio and am having a little trouble deciding what amp to run the subs off of. My main concern is that I don't want to under/over power the subs, and am hoping some of the audio experts on this site could give me some assistance.

I am looking at a Alpine MRP-M500 for the amp right now. The subs run at 300 watts RMS, and the amp runs 300 watts RMS at 4 ohms and 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms. What I've gathered from reading online is that with this setup if I bridge the amp to these two subs that should be good. I don't know the technicalities but that is the just of what I have been hearing. Any validation to that advice or no? If not what amp should I be looking at?

I appreciate all the help guys!

Hobbes80

If you were to wire them this way:


You'd get a 4 0hm load on your amp, giving you 300W... The speakers can handle more, but I don't think you'd notice a difference with a bigger amp. you could wire them in a 1 0hm load, but that amp is not stable at 1 0hms according to the documents on their website.

chris_bryan_89

^^ thanks for the diagram hobbes. Makes it easier to have a visual.

chris_bryan_89

One other thing... I keep hearing about capacitors and how much they help save your electrical system. My system isn't going to be using massive amounts of wattage, so do I really need one, or are they primarily used just for hi watts systems? Opinions?

chlngfyo2

I would a half farad would make the bass a little harder on the long burst plus its easier on the charging system an the amp cause it even's out the peak draw an if you dont have good battery get a optima, i've had mine almost 5 year's an it's the only battery i've found that will last.

jchubb01

Actually caps hurt your system.

Reason being is if the electrical system itself doesn't put enough amps out to power the speakers/amp at full load, its going to drain that cap and then try to charge it back up while still continuing to supply the amp with power.. Meaning loss of power when it needs it the most.

BlueCountry

Interesting. I remember I had a 1/2 farad cap in my Eclipse for my sub amp. There were LEDs on it to tell me when it was fully charged. The problem was that it never fully charged! I always wondered what the problem was.

chris_bryan_89

So no need for one?

Markanth0ny

+1

A small 600 watt amp shouldn't put too much strain on your system but if your headlights start blinking with the bass, a good idea would be to get the big three upgrade. That is upgrading the wire from your alternator to your battery positive terminal, the wire from your negative battery terminal to your chassis and from your chassis to the engine ground. The last could also be substituted with a wire from your negative post to your engine ground instead.

Edit:

Just saw this on the stickies tab. How to do the big three upgrade.

www.f150forum.com/f33/how-big-3-upgrade-46822/

chris_bryan_89

That's good information thanks.. So I'll look into doing the big 3 then first.

Does anyone have any amp suggestions? The more I look into it the more I'm thinking I should go with a more powerful amp. What are your opinions?