kmaximus

There are a few different manufactures, but the one I used was a JL Audio product I picked up on ebay for a great price.

XA-CLR9CON-20 is the part number and here's a link on ebay for an example. I paid 30 bucks for 40ft (2 20ft) packages.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...ectorid=229466

and here's another link to some other brands:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...peed-wire.html

my apologies, it's actually a 9 conductor wire as it includes remote turn on wire. I will say it's THICK wire and can be hard to run, but it really did cut down on cables going everywhere

TK5

I just bought the same 9 conductor wire

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-Speaker-Wire-XA-CLR9CON-20-20-18awg-4-Channel-w-Turn-On-Speed-Wire-/130892728720?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item1e79d08990&vxp=mtr

kmaximus

Cool! Yeah I was very happy with the price/quality compared to the other stuff.

F150Newbie24

Whatup All, well I got rear ended yesterday by some dumb hottie as I was turning into a gas station. Left rear will need to be replaced including the bumper and tailgate. Just hoping the frame isnt tweaked. Sucks, truck is just shy of three months old. Got almost all the truck dynamat'd. Got rear door speakers completed, working on the passenger side door and will finish with the driver door. Have the amp rack done and everything mounted. Cables ran, power ran, just need to finish dynamatting the rest of passenger door and drivers door then finish wiring. Will complete all that then work on the custom center console last. Good thing I didnt listen to the guy at crutchfield who said 42sq ft was enough to do all doors, floor, and rear wall. Not even close, i'm at 76sq ft and just ordered another 24 sq ft which should hopefully finish the last two doors and the center console, not doing the roof. Stay tuned, i'll try to post some pics up.

kmaximus

ouch sorry to hear that! Good luck with the repairs and rest of your build!

guardiannite

what was the end result on the fronts having full range signal so we dont need the addon, and what are the wires your tapping into from behind the head unit?

F150Newbie24

I didnt need to get the SSI. IMO it's too flat. The low end (ie. sub) misses ALOT of the bass notes. I'm going to sell it and get the AudioControl DQ61 instead since it has the built in eq. I just snipped the OEM wires in the doors and ran two sets of cables. One from the new infinity's to the amp, and the second to tie into the cleansweep in the rear. I REALLY wish they had a good kit to add a aftermarket HUD. Was going to try to make my own but the folks at METRA said that relocating the 4.2" screen is outta the question because the computer is behind it. You'd figure they would just make a longer cable (believe its a ribbon cable) to extend it so it could be lowered. O'well. Maybe i'll get a sweet deal the new '15 and go after a different stereo setup that will let me add an aftermarket HUD.

guardiannite

like the DQ61 but need the wires you are going to tap from behind the head unit so I can do the same..thx

Pauli18c

has anything else been found out about this? I got a Cleansweep like a dummy before reading into this further. I was hoping to splice into the wires coming off the headunit and keep the cleansweep behind the dash but looks like that isn't an option. Looks like I need to purchase the SSI unit? Is the only place to pull these wires under the center console? How long does it take to pull the console?

Right now I have a FRD-24 Pac adapter running a 4 channel amp and a mono block amp for 2 subs, using a Y splitter for the sub amp.

Alpine PDX-F6 4 Channel
Memphis PR1.1000 Mono Block
Fronts - Hertz ML1600 Drivers, Zapco Tweets and crossover from the RH-13.2 series
Rear - Image Dynamic XS-65 Drivers, Zapco Tweets and crossover from the RH-13.2 series
Subs - 2 Image Dynamics IDQ-10 D4 wired to 1ohm

Pauli18c

Also Maximus, did you not run new wires to the speakers? Is that why you spliced the other wires on the OEM amp harness?