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09 Supercrew Stereo upgrade

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Old 05-15-2010, 06:23 AM
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For those keeping their factory H/U, where are you tapping in for the RCAss?
Old 05-15-2010, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bigred83
For those keeping their factory H/U, where are you tapping in for the RCAss?
You can either get an amp with speaker-level inputs, or you can use a line-out converter or a signal processor.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...che+SLC-4.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+CL441dsp.html
Old 05-15-2010, 04:31 PM
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I'm using the rockford fosgate 3sixty.1, works great.
Old 05-16-2010, 07:31 PM
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do you offer a dual 12" box for the supercab by any chance "joefox" and if not do you offer any boxes at all for the supercab ????
Old 05-16-2010, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 2010supercab
do you offer a dual 12" box for the supercab by any chance "joefox" and if not do you offer any boxes at all for the supercab ????
Sorry, 10" only.
There just isn't enough airspace for 12" subs. Some manufacturers may list there minimum airspace as being compatible but that will also give you minimal performance from that 12 vs optimal performance from a quality 10" sub.
My f150-210-04 fits all of the supercabs from 2004-2010.
Old 05-17-2010, 11:57 AM
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Statikuz, The box I have was great at first when I received it. Also, Supercrew sound is great to deal with ordering and when you have issues like I did. However, once I received a box that I was happy with, it seems that the thing is not contructed for longevity. Meaning, I'm getting airleaks in the box that where not there from the start, and it is virtully impossible to fix and find them. So, I'm just living with it until I can get my buddy to build me one properly using thicker MDF. Aslo, sealing it properly from the start.
Old 05-17-2010, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by franzit
Statikuz, The box I have was great at first when I received it. Also, Supercrew sound is great to deal with ordering and when you have issues like I did. However, once I received a box that I was happy with, it seems that the thing is not contructed for longevity. Meaning, I'm getting airleaks in the box that where not there from the start, and it is virtully impossible to fix and find them. So, I'm just living with it until I can get my buddy to build me one properly using thicker MDF. Aslo, sealing it properly from the start.
Just wanted to give you a few ideas on maybe fixing your current box before having a new one made.

1. tray and press a bead of wood glue all around the inner seams of the box.

2. After that dries for a day, put a nice clean bead of silicone aroung the entire inside seams. Let this dry for a day or two before putting your subs back in.

3. Check the screw holes for the sub or under the sub gasket for the leaking air.


hope that helps
Old 05-17-2010, 01:40 PM
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You should be able to exchange it within the first year. The only thing it should cost you is the shipping to return it and they should pick up the shipping for the replacement.

If your going to try and fix it you need to find out where the box is coming apart. Once you locate the joint you need to drive a small flat screw driver in the crack to open it up. Squeeze regular wood glue into the crack and if you have a air compressor with a blow gun you can blow the glue into the joint. Remove the screw driver, predrill and put a few 1 5/8" coarse thread screws where the box was coming apart to pull the boards together. Glue should squeeze out of the joint when screwed if done properly.

The biggest problem that many of the sub box makers have is there reliance on caulk. I don't use it. Its a band aid to cover and hide poor craftsmanship and seal large gaps that shouldn't be there. If a speaker box is cut out properly the joints will be tight enough that wood glue fills them and there is no need for caulk.
Old 05-18-2010, 07:55 AM
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JoeFox, put me down for a single enclosure once you have them available



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