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Old 12-21-2014, 02:03 PM
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Default New Member with a Few Questions

Hi y'all.
Greetings. I hope the Christmas Season is treating everyone well. I have a few questions that I'm hoping to get answered. Important info as follows: 1993 Ford F-150, I-6 (replaced some years ago with a Jasper), manual 4 speed transmission (replaced some time ago with what I think is the Mazda) with the overdrive...I call it a 5 speed transmission, regular cab, 2 WD, no power options as far as windows, etc., 8 foot bed.
1. I've had the stock engine replaced some years ago with a Jasper engine. No problems to date except with the gas mileage. I had it in the shop a while ago and was told that "the reason the 'check engine light' keeps coming on is that whoever did the engine work cut and/or capped some hoses"...I attempted to load the pictures in my efforts to address this but they won't load. Call me tech challenged since I don't know how to shrink the pictures. The flex hose leading to the "can" looks to have been cut. There is also a small rubber hose leading from what looks like a valve up on the passenger side of the engine compartment and it goes to nowhere. I know it's difficult with no pictures so if anyone can help me with loading them to help you to help me it would be great.
2. Does anyone have any references for getting a new bench seat? Cost?
Maybe the seat with the flip down console in the middle? Cost? Is reupholstering an option? Cost?
3. Does anyone have any experience with putting in a fuel pump? I have the I-6 with dual tanks and the front tank doesn't change over. Any idea as to any special tools or whatnot? Cost?
4. Any idea about the specs on the rims with regards to the backseat and spacing, if those are the correct terms? My poor rims have seen better days and need to be retired.
5. The A/C needs to be recharged/replaced. Any ideas as for options given the eco-***** and EPA? Can this be done at home? Cost?
6. Any ideas/comments about what would be considered decent-to-good gas mileage? Mine seems to be close to what I'd call abysmal but I do need to accurately track it rather than just going by what is "seems" like. Still would like some input.
7. I've toyed with the idea of converting it to carbs but I've had a mechanic tell me years ago (when I had the '87) that it would be prohibitively expensive. Has anyone done this? Comments?

Thanks all and Merry Christmas
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Last edited by certifiedbodyman; 12-22-2014 at 07:19 PM. Reason: try to upload pictures
Old 12-27-2014, 06:08 PM
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Default PS...Looking for Names of Parts Based on These Pictures and Abbreviations

Hi Y'all. I took out a "mystery part" and took some pictures that I will attach. My questions are: 1. what is it and 2. what does it connect to with the flex hose? It has no part number that I could find which struck me as odd. I'm wondering/guessing that it has something to do with the pollution control system but as I'm no mechanic or expert I don't know. I'm also betting that the flex hose goes to a part that is likely missing. If anyone knows what that part is I'll gladly accept your input and if anyone has a picture of that part even better. I also will enclose a picture of the vacuum hose routing sticker and I'm asking if anyone knows the abbreviations. Thanks and I hope everyone has a Happy New Year.
Rich
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:38 PM
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Hi there, I'll start by saying I'm new here, too, but I have been doing the mechanic thing professionally since '04. I will attempt to answer some of your questions as best I can, though I imagine there's probably very little discussion in this particular section.

#1 I am pretty certain what you are looking at there is what would either be a muffler or filter canister for your smog pump. That would be the belt-driven device the other hose goes to, the open ended hose is simply the fresh air intake. The system basically injects fresh air into the exhaust system right at the manifold, just outside of the exhaust ports. It's meant to help reduce emissions. I don't believe it would have any effect on fuel consumption, since it does not affect combustion itself, though there would be slight parasitic loss through the belt drive. As far as helping you with the check engine light, the specific codes would be helpful, and there is a procedure for retreiving them yourself, I don't recall it at the moment, but you should be able to find it on this forum with alittle searching.

#2 Best bet is to search local junkyards for a desirable replacement. Upholstery kits can probably be found online, I don't have too much more information on this one, sir.

#3 If you have a changeover switch that does not work, the truck would likely continue to run, after being switched. If you have a faulty fuel pump (or shorted/open circuit, either in the harness, or at the pump or switch) in one of the tanks, the truck would actually shut down when the switch is moved to that tank. I have not had the opportunity to diagnose many concerns with these trucks involving the dual tanks, but some electrical knowledge would be required if you were to continue with this issue.

#4 As far as wheel & tire size, the junkyard may be the best solution, find another F150/Bronco, or even later models like the Expedition. F150s up to 2004, Broncos to '96, and 97-02 Expeditions will have wheels that will fit. There's probably a separate section in the forum devoted to wheels & tires, you can probably find much more info regarding this.

#5 Your truck uses r134a, which could be bought in a recharge kit from the local auto parts, which I wouldn't recommend because they can't possibly fix the underlying cause. That being said, a full flush and compressor/drier/orifice tube replacement can cost several hundred dollars, so long as nothing else is wrong. Best to take it somewhere for an estimate, don't be afraid to get more than one opinion.

#6 Depending on driving habits, anywhere in the 9-13 mpg range is my best guess.

#7 If it runs on all cylinders and doesn't have any electrical issues, I'd have a hard time justifying a carb conversion, from a cost and effort perspective.

Just one guy's point of view. But, like I said, there is a very helpful search function here. On forums for previously owned vehicles of mine, I have spent several hours at a time reading, stumbling on things, learning obscure, useful knowledge. Welcome aboard and happy hunting.
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certifiedbodyman (01-05-2015)
Old 12-31-2014, 12:00 AM
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And regarding your vacuum diagram, I had to look one up on google, since I couldn't really read the picture you posted. Here is what I can find:

EVR - is a vacuum solenoid used to control the opening and closing of the EGR valve
AIRB, AIRD - used to control flow from the air pump to the exhaust manifold & catalytic converter
EFCA - represents the throttle body area of the intake manifold
PCV - positive crankcase ventilation valve, found on back top of valve cover
EGR- exhaust gas recirculation valve, this would be found in close vicinity of the throttle body
MAP- manifold air pressure sensor, located on the firewall
CANP - fuel vapor canister purge solenoid
FPRC - fuel pressure regulator, located on the fuel rail
MAN VAC - manifold vacuum supply, the 'tree' of vacuum lines coming off the side of the intake manifold
AIRB/AIRD - airflow control valve for smog pump, markings for ENG, CAT, & AIRPUMP notating where each hose leads
CAN - fuel vapor canister, pulls & stores fuel vapor from fuel tanks, where it is stored before being introduced to the engine air intake at a time determined by the computer
VRESER - vacuum reservior, allows a greater volume of 'vacuum' to be stored, for smooth & continuous operation of vacuum-operated equipment, like solenoids and your temp & mode control doors for the cab ventilation

Hope this helps.
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certifiedbodyman (01-05-2015)
Old 01-05-2015, 05:48 PM
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[MENTION=198956]rfletcher[/MENTION]...BIG thanks...a lot of great information and insight...I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions...
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rfletcher (01-06-2015)



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