1989 ford f150 yard plow truck problem
12-05-2007, 04:17 PM
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1989 ford f150 yard plow truck problem
hello i have a 1989 ford f150 300 6cyl 5 speed yard plow truck the problem i have with the truck is when i go out to plow it starts right up runs decent i start using it then it just shuts right off and it wont start again till you let it sit for awhile then it will fire right back up run good again for a few min then die again..iv checked the pressure thing on fuel rail it sprays gas clear over the fender so i dont think its fuel i'v changed the coil and the module on the side of the distributor and it still does it anybody have any ideas?? thanks
12-05-2007, 04:49 PM
#2
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Welcome to the site! Always warms my heart to see these older generation trucks still going. Hmm, well, in this instance, still has reasonable potential to still be going.
And you just have to post a question once, we'll find it - promise! :-)
If the engine is dying quick, then I would lean toward an ignition problem. If it kind of sputters and peters out, then would lean toward a fuel problem.
Given what you've described, and without knowing if there are any fault codes (does the 'check engine' light work, and did it come on?) - my first guess would be the ignition module on the side of the distributor. I see that you've already replaced it, but thinking of the potential of getting one that is bad out of the box. AutoZone may be able to check the module with their test kit, but that involves pulling the module again.
After that, the pickup inside the distributor would be suspect.
Suggest to first get your hands on an OBD-I series code reader to see if there are any fault codes that may help narrow things down. These run about $20-$30 if you can still find one. Or a garage or chain parts store may pull them for free or a nominal charge, but it doesn't sound like the truck runs long enough to get it anywhere.
Next suggest to verify the ignition module. Most shop manuals - Chilton's, Haynes, etc. will have the test procedures. This involves the use of a multi-meter - be sure to use a good one. I have little faith in the $10 Wally-world specials. The pickup sensor inside the distributor can also be checked with a multimeter, as well as the primary and secondary sides of the coil.
Also check the distributor shaft, that it doesn't have too much 'wobble' or wear.
If you don't already have a shop manual - I suggest to get one - the thicker the better. This, as well as a code reader and good multimeter, will pay for itself many times over if you do a lot of your own maintenance work.
I tend to advocate testing and checking as opposed to blind replacement of parts. The reasons being:
(1) can spend a lot of money on parts that don't need replacing and don't solve the problem, and
(2) each part replaced that is not part of the problem offers a new opportunity to insert another problem into the mix should the new part be bad out of the box.
And you just have to post a question once, we'll find it - promise! :-)
If the engine is dying quick, then I would lean toward an ignition problem. If it kind of sputters and peters out, then would lean toward a fuel problem.
Given what you've described, and without knowing if there are any fault codes (does the 'check engine' light work, and did it come on?) - my first guess would be the ignition module on the side of the distributor. I see that you've already replaced it, but thinking of the potential of getting one that is bad out of the box. AutoZone may be able to check the module with their test kit, but that involves pulling the module again.
After that, the pickup inside the distributor would be suspect.
Suggest to first get your hands on an OBD-I series code reader to see if there are any fault codes that may help narrow things down. These run about $20-$30 if you can still find one. Or a garage or chain parts store may pull them for free or a nominal charge, but it doesn't sound like the truck runs long enough to get it anywhere.
Next suggest to verify the ignition module. Most shop manuals - Chilton's, Haynes, etc. will have the test procedures. This involves the use of a multi-meter - be sure to use a good one. I have little faith in the $10 Wally-world specials. The pickup sensor inside the distributor can also be checked with a multimeter, as well as the primary and secondary sides of the coil.
Also check the distributor shaft, that it doesn't have too much 'wobble' or wear.
If you don't already have a shop manual - I suggest to get one - the thicker the better. This, as well as a code reader and good multimeter, will pay for itself many times over if you do a lot of your own maintenance work.
I tend to advocate testing and checking as opposed to blind replacement of parts. The reasons being:
(1) can spend a lot of money on parts that don't need replacing and don't solve the problem, and
(2) each part replaced that is not part of the problem offers a new opportunity to insert another problem into the mix should the new part be bad out of the box.
Last edited by wde3477; 12-05-2007 at 04:51 PM. Reason: more info
12-05-2007, 10:57 PM
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i.ll have to get some stuff tested i guess . it does sputter when it dies and when you try to start it up.. it attemps to start every once inawhile but it wont until you let it sit..the check engine light is on all the time..theres no way to drive it anywere to get anything tested it only runs for like 5 min tops then shuts down thanks for the info sounds like you know your fords ... i think i might go to a junk yard tommorrow try a whole distributor . dont wanna spend to much more money on the ole truck its just a yard dog
12-06-2007, 02:26 AM
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i'v been checkin out the cite very cool so i guess this is were i was suppossed to introduce myself to start with..i'm dave from maine my trucks a 89 f150 was a one owner before me it has 73000 miles no rust....it's been sitting for the last 8 years so its got a few issuis...most i'v corrected but still has a few my temperature gauge dont work the truck seems to run a little rich ...a freind thinks that its a censor and that might be the prob? but i wouldnt think that would couse the truck to die after a few min... thanks
12-06-2007, 07:29 AM
#5
Senior Member
Sounds like you have a bit of a challenge in front of you.
There should be two coolant temperature sensors on the vehicle. The one that signals the guage is different than the one the engine uses for feedback. Either one should not keep the truck from running - the engine feedback sensor is used for cold-engine operation. Should throw a code that the engine never comes out of cold operation if the sensor that the computer uses has failed.
The 300 I6 engine has a great reputation for longevity, reliability, and low-end torque. I understand these problems are frustrating, but just have patience and work the problem.
Keep us posted on what you find - always good to add these tidbits to our repetoire.
There should be two coolant temperature sensors on the vehicle. The one that signals the guage is different than the one the engine uses for feedback. Either one should not keep the truck from running - the engine feedback sensor is used for cold-engine operation. Should throw a code that the engine never comes out of cold operation if the sensor that the computer uses has failed.
The 300 I6 engine has a great reputation for longevity, reliability, and low-end torque. I understand these problems are frustrating, but just have patience and work the problem.
Keep us posted on what you find - always good to add these tidbits to our repetoire.
05-25-2009, 02:40 PM
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89 4.9 i6
Hey i'm havin the same 2 problems as the people in this thread. The engine starts sputtering and eventually does and if i just let it sit for a little while it starts right back up. And also my temp guage does not work. I've previously replaced most of the electrical and fuel componants and just recently replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor on the same housing. I'm wondering if the two could be related but most of all i just need some insight. Thank you.