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There is no way your cars are completely free of swirls or scratches. Hand washing, claying, and polishing can and will all add swirls. Certain waxes and compounds may help fill in those scratches and swirls, but they're still there.
I beg to differ...with the right power tools, pads and polishes paint can be corrected.
I prefer to "correct" swirls and fine scratches rather than use any fillers to hide them.
"Show Car" paint detailing is a combination of science, skill, passion and an art form.
Most of the time I do NOT use ANY fillers & spend at least 20-30 hours polishing paint.
I like to "polish the paint to perfection" & apply the LSP directly on the paint surface.
This creates the best bonding surface and a greater longevity for the sealant product.
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"Grant me the power tools to correct the fixable, the fillers to cover the hopeless and the wisdom the know the difference."
I have worked on cars that cost more then most homes. To detail a car-truck the right way you need power equipment. You can not get the paint to look perfect with out a dual action orbital polisher. The reason I recommend a dual action polisher is because its harder to burn the paint.
Swirls are very tiny scratched in the clear coat. To get a scratch out of the clear coat you need to heat up the clear to flatten out and fill in the scratch. It is very hard but doable by hand but A LOT of work. A deeper scratch is impossible to get out by hand. All you are doing is filling up the scratch with product and will reappear as the product gets washed away. A deep scratch I will wet sand with 2000 grit and then 2500 grit wet sand paper then polish with a 4 step process to get the paint back to factory finish.
If you don't like to wax every three month I recommend to my customers a good paint sealant. I high Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant.
I have worked on cars that cost more then most homes. To detail a car-truck the right way you need power equipment. You can not get the paint to look perfect with out a dual action orbital polisher. The reason I recommend a dual action polisher is because its harder to burn the paint.
Swirls are very tiny scratched in the clear coat. To get a scratch out of the clear coat you need to heat up the clear to flatten out and fill in the scratch. It is very hard but doable by hand but A LOT of work. A deeper scratch is impossible to get out by hand. All you are doing is filling up the scratch with product and will reappear as the product gets washed away. A deep scratch I will wet sand with 2000 grit and then 2500 grit wet sand paper then polish with a 4 step process to get the paint back to factory finish.
If you don't like to wax every three month I recommend to my customers a good paint sealant. I high Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant.
A little detail I did
I've always heard that you were only supposed to wax a car twice a year so that the paint dosent have alot of wax layered up on top of it so that it inturn has enough room to breath.
I've always heard that you were only supposed to wax a car twice a year so that the paint dosent have alot of wax layered up on top of it so that it inturn has enough room to breath.
The new polymer waxes aren't like the old carnuba waxes. And, I think that may have applied to the old laquer paints more than a clear coat finish. After about 3 months, the wax starts getting a little thin, anyway.
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6" BDS Lift, Fox Shocks, 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers on 18" KMC XD Spy's, Westin Bull Bar w/ Rigid 20" LED bar, Magnaflow 1-into-2 out the back, K&N Cold Air Intake, Rugged Cover tri-fold, SCT X3 with 5-Star Tunes.
Build thread: http://www.f150forum.com/f6/02-super-crew-build-108367/
So I'm a proud new owner of a brand new 2011 SCrew in sterling gray. Just brought her home this past weekend from my local dealership. I want to make sure the paint is prepped and protected from here on out.
Don't know how long it's been sitting on that lot, or how they've washed it so wanted to get some suggestions.
I'm definitely going to wash and clay, but should I polish before I seal and protect?
What did you wind up doing?
NOTE:
From my experience
Wax lasts at 3-6 weeks.
Sealants last about 3-6 months.
Definitely clay your truck.. Even if it's brand new. When I got my 2013 Mustang from the dealer, it was on the lot for 1 day, and when I took it home and clay barred it, I was shocked how much stuff came off. After that, three coats of Zaino and my sterling gray paint was impeccable. Going to do the same thing with my F-150 this weekend hopefully.. please mother nature, let me do it!
Ok, I purchased the dealers paint proctection system. Good for a year with a once a year rejuvenation kit good for 6 years. Do I still need to clay bar and wax my new truck?
__________________ 2013 F150 Lariat, 5.0, Offroad Pkg, 4X4, Supercab with Lariat Plus pkg, Chrome Ford Running Boards,Tuxedo Black w/Adobe accent, Weathertech floormats/Wind deflectors and other stuff.
Definitely clay your truck.. Even if it's brand new. When I got my 2013 Mustang from the dealer, it was on the lot for 1 day, and when I took it home and clay barred it, I was shocked how much stuff came off. After that, three coats of Zaino and my sterling gray paint was impeccable. Going to do the same thing with my F-150 this weekend hopefully.. please mother nature, let me do it!
Look into doing a very very very light polish to get rid of all the very fine swirl marks and scratchs the dealer put into it and then before your zaino on it use the Blackfire Crystal Seal to put a sealant on your paint as well. You will have a better protected paint and it will have an awesome deep wet look. It only takes an hour to cure. It is well worth it!
__________________ 2013 F150 Regular Cab STX Tuxedo Black
STX Appearance Package
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6x8 Kove Front Door Speakers, PowerBass Tweeters, Soundstream 2-Channel 200 watt Picasso Series Amp.