compounding and buffing
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compounding and buffing
i need to compound and buff my truck, it has quite a few scratches, what is a really good compound to use? also are the wool or foam bonnets better for high speed buffing?
#2
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There are not to many manufacturers of rubbing compound. Any one should be ok. I would only use a light duty unless you have a white or light colored truck. The heavy duty stuff will take care of the imperfections alot quicker but will require alot more finishing steps.
Light duty compound with a wool applicator pad is the way to go. When you wax it after compound, use the foam one. Make sure that you wax with the buffer afterward and then use some swirl remover after that.
I don't know your level of experience, but this is a real easy way to get to hear yourself say "oh sh*t".
Light duty compound with a wool applicator pad is the way to go. When you wax it after compound, use the foam one. Make sure that you wax with the buffer afterward and then use some swirl remover after that.
I don't know your level of experience, but this is a real easy way to get to hear yourself say "oh sh*t".
#3
what year is your truck? Is the finish a newer basecoat/clearcoat, or is it an older one-stage paint job? Are the scratches hairline surface scratches, or have they pentrated deeper and may need sanding out?
Do you have the right eqpt? get a variable speed polisher/buffer - looks like a large 7" grinder but rpm's are much slower - and the correct foam compounding/polishing pads (different grade for each). I like the "Wizards" line of products as they are water-soluble and easy to use. Use the fluffy buffing pad for the final high-gloss polish. You can find all this stuff at shops which sell car refinishing supplies to body shops. Find one that is "public-friendly" and willing to share their know-how with you. Some of them aren't and want to keep their main customers-the body shops-happy. Don't worry, "it ain't brain surgery" for anyone with common sense, average handyman skills, AND the right equipment.
Do you have the right eqpt? get a variable speed polisher/buffer - looks like a large 7" grinder but rpm's are much slower - and the correct foam compounding/polishing pads (different grade for each). I like the "Wizards" line of products as they are water-soluble and easy to use. Use the fluffy buffing pad for the final high-gloss polish. You can find all this stuff at shops which sell car refinishing supplies to body shops. Find one that is "public-friendly" and willing to share their know-how with you. Some of them aren't and want to keep their main customers-the body shops-happy. Don't worry, "it ain't brain surgery" for anyone with common sense, average handyman skills, AND the right equipment.
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im pretty good with a buffer, ive just always had the materials there in front of me so i really never had to much thinking on that part til now, so your saying go with light duty compound, then wax it, then swirl remover? the wax i am using is a paste wax called collinites fleet wax, it would be pretty tough to apply with a buffer so im gonna do it by hand.
thanks
thanks
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and yeah i have 2 makita high speed buffers, i bought them at a paint and body shop so i know there the ones i need. my truck is a mettalic grey 05 f150 screw. i dont think any of the scratches will need sanding, their not bad at all just very bothersome to me.......
#7
this isn't so much help as advice. You say you bought the buffers at your local paint jobber, go ask them what they would suggest and how to do it. they will know what it takes and how many steps you should do. that is where I would start
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This is great advice, especially if you have never used those buffers. You could use them at too high of speed and break the compound down and eat right through your clear if you're not careful.
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[quote=lennon2009;131496]this isn't so much help as advice. You say you bought the buffers at your local paint jobber, go ask them what they would suggest and how to do it. they will know what it takes and how many steps you should do. that is where I would start[/q
maybe you misunderstood me.....i bought the buffers from a paint and body SHOP. i used to work there and my old boss sold them to me cheap because one needed a switch and brushes and the other needed a new cord. also the place where i bought these from is quite a hike from where i live now so going all the way there is out of the question. but after work tomorrow i will go to a car paint store and get the advice i need and supplies. thanks
ive used a high speed buffer hundreds of times and never burned through the clear, but like i said in an earlier post, when i worked at the paint and body shop i had all the materials there in front of me, so there wasnt much thinking involved on my part, but now i wish i had paid more attention.........thanks everyone for the advice but i think i can take it from here
maybe you misunderstood me.....i bought the buffers from a paint and body SHOP. i used to work there and my old boss sold them to me cheap because one needed a switch and brushes and the other needed a new cord. also the place where i bought these from is quite a hike from where i live now so going all the way there is out of the question. but after work tomorrow i will go to a car paint store and get the advice i need and supplies. thanks
ive used a high speed buffer hundreds of times and never burned through the clear, but like i said in an earlier post, when i worked at the paint and body shop i had all the materials there in front of me, so there wasnt much thinking involved on my part, but now i wish i had paid more attention.........thanks everyone for the advice but i think i can take it from here
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