Sask F150

Ok so I think I'm set up for washing/waxing my truck for the first time. I've washed many times but have never waxed. This is what I have:

Two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards
Meguires Gold Class Car wash Soap
Gilmour Foam Gun
Simonize chenille wash mitts 2
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
Cookie monster Buffing Towel

This truck is new and only been drove for two weeks. It was cleaned and detailed before I picked it up from Dealership.( I know now that I basically wasted my money on that. Live and learn I guess)

Is there anything I'm missing that I need to pick up or steps to do?

I know about clay bar but kind of scared to do it lol

Should I be doing any pre cleaning before waxing? Or can I just two bucket wash, dry and then coat of 845?

I keep reading about Glazing, Polishing, and sealing before waxing but not sure what to do or use. Any help?

I have easy access to Mequires and Mothers Products if that helps.

Truck is Tuxedo Black

Thanks

MCDavis

iTrader: (1)

If you're scared of actual clay, then I'd suggest the Autospa Nanoskin products. Either their towels or their sponges. Used with their Glide concentrate it becomes a pretty simple process and it's not as abrasive as claying. Works nicely on a new truck in that regard as the contaminants should not be as heavy as on an older vehicle.

You sound like you're on track with the remainder of it.

Sask F150

Ok, is it good to hit it with a quick detailer before waxing? Bought a bottle of Meguires Ultimate Quick detailer.

Also, I bought two jugs of wash. One is the Meguires wash and wax and the other is Meguires Gold class wash. Will they both work good with foam gun? Also will using the wash and wax have ill effects on the collinite wax?

MCDavis

iTrader: (1)

Quik detailer after waxing to touch up.
I haven't used a foam gun, so I cannot speak towards that area. Sorry.

Click this link, and scroll down to the steps they outline. It's good to follow this:
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

shazam

claybarring a finish that is in good condition is just not a big deal. Its not even particularly time consuming.

nickstradamus

Check AutoGeek for a lot of 101 type info. Here is the down dirty based on your post:

Wax, sealants and glazes are designed to protect paintwork. Glazes sometime contain filler silicone products which can pretty things up but hide scratches/swirls. Once they wear off the defects appear again. To correct those you need a polish/compound depending.

Compounds/polishes have various forms of abrasives designed for correction to paintwork....correcting small scratches still in the clear, oxidation, and swirls.

Key to a protection effort is having a clean and cool surface to work with to aide in adhesion (clean) and to prevent a product from evaporating (cool---some products). A good wash will usually do the trick. However you may need to clay.

Bonded surface contaminants are forms of environmental fallout that stick to your paint. Clay with the proper lubricant (quick detailer) will remove those but can cause minor micro marring of the paint, which is why some folks polish the paint after claying. Look up the plastic baggy test to assets your paint for claying.

When I got my truck new I washed, polished then sealed. I didn't need a clay as the paint was in great shape and the polish removed any would be surface contaminants. Here is how it looked: