Scraping noise while accelerating
#1
Scraping noise while accelerating
2012 f150 supercrew v6 ecoboost twin turbo.
It’s not consistent. happens when accelerating mostly when fist accelerating but sometimes at higher speeds if I accelerate. If I let off the pedal a little it goes away, even if I press the pedal immediately afterwards. I read about the vacuum issues some owners had but this seems different to me. I ran the 4wd and didn’t hear it but like I said it was never consistent. I originally thought a small branch was caught under the truck. My truck will also squeal when starting which started a little before I noticed the scrapping noise. I thought maybe the scraping noise was relayed. Belt or pulley but I’m not sure.
It’s not consistent. happens when accelerating mostly when fist accelerating but sometimes at higher speeds if I accelerate. If I let off the pedal a little it goes away, even if I press the pedal immediately afterwards. I read about the vacuum issues some owners had but this seems different to me. I ran the 4wd and didn’t hear it but like I said it was never consistent. I originally thought a small branch was caught under the truck. My truck will also squeal when starting which started a little before I noticed the scrapping noise. I thought maybe the scraping noise was relayed. Belt or pulley but I’m not sure.
Last edited by Doomvonvader; 04-25-2022 at 05:22 PM.
#2
That sounds like the IDE issue. That's how my 2015 behaved. The squeal at startup might be your vacuum pump which I think are only on the turbo engines and a known failure item at least with the early ecoboosts. I had it with my 2011 but traded it before getting it taken care of since it is an expensive part. The IDEs won't be cheap either. I paid $1,450 to have both IDEs and hubs replaced on a 2015 5.0. My guess is they use the shotgun approach (at your expense) so they know they got the problem rather than track it down to the failing part.
#5
That's how it went for me and it started to get worse. When I took it in they said they had done quite a few of these before. I was just glad they had the parts as it was in the middle of the pandemic.
#6
You can pull the electrical connection to the solenoid and safely drive that way until you get the issue resolved to reduce the damage to the IWEs (assuming it isn't the IWEs themselves). Only plug it in while doing testing.
#7
I’m far from a mechanic so I’m not sure. If it’s unplugged does it just keep it in 2wd? Hen I replaced the solenoid and check valve I just unplugged the old and plugged in the new. Is there another step I’m missing? I heard somewhere that the engine would create the vacuum.
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#8
I’m far from a mechanic so I’m not sure. If it’s unplugged does it just keep it in 2wd? Hen I replaced the solenoid and check valve I just unplugged the old and plugged in the new. Is there another step I’m missing? I heard somewhere that the engine would create the vacuum.
Have you done a visual inspection of the vacuum lines from the solenoid on down to each IWE? Pay close attention to the connector where the rubber line from each IWE connects to the plastic line. They can crack from the rubber line pulling on it when you turn the wheels.
#9
sorry, I mis-read that. I thought you were asking. Thanks for the help. My mechanic is 30 minutes away so that makes me feel better about getting it to the shop.
#10
Engine creates the vacuum. It is the solenoid that either allows vacuum to the IWEs or not. Without power, it defaults to no vacuum to the IWEs so the IWEs will not disengage. You are still in 2WD because the transfer case has not been switch if the **** in the cab is still set to 2WD. Your half shafts would just be turning all the time is all. You won't cause any issues but, if you leave it that way permanently, you will want to shorten the interval for changing the front diff fluid as part of the front diff will also be turning.
Have you done a visual inspection of the vacuum lines from the solenoid on down to each IWE? Pay close attention to the connector where the rubber line from each IWE connects to the plastic line. They can crack from the rubber line pulling on it when you turn the wheels.
Have you done a visual inspection of the vacuum lines from the solenoid on down to each IWE? Pay close attention to the connector where the rubber line from each IWE connects to the plastic line. They can crack from the rubber line pulling on it when you turn the wheels.