has anyone ever had to remove this
#2
Heh, 'member'
I'd start with Goo-Gone. If that doesn't work and it's tacky, use a heat gun to warm it up a bit and set to work with some plastic scrapers. It will probably take forever.
If you don't give a damn about your paint, brake fluid.
If you don't give a damn about your paint, brake fluid.
#5
Senior Member
I pulled the side molding off a Silverado several years ago and had the same thing to deal with. Believe it or not I just used my fingers and thumbs and just sorta rolled it off. Of course I had a few blisters when it was over but no scratches.
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Grand Forks, ND for college; Langdon, ND is home
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get a 3M automotive rubber eraser disk. Goes in the end of a drill and peels it all off.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydep...temno=MMM+7498
You can buy them anywhere this is just an example. Thats what we use all the time at work to take any decals and stripes off paint. Some other dealer logos have that type stuff for the adhesive and it also works great for that. it takes it off then just clean up with rubbing alcohol or goo-gone. Its also what most all bodyshops and decal shops use.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydep...temno=MMM+7498
You can buy them anywhere this is just an example. Thats what we use all the time at work to take any decals and stripes off paint. Some other dealer logos have that type stuff for the adhesive and it also works great for that. it takes it off then just clean up with rubbing alcohol or goo-gone. Its also what most all bodyshops and decal shops use.
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hopedale, Illinois
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I would advice NOT using gasoline. I have seen first hand what gas can do to clear coat on a motorcycle fuel tank. Goo gone is good...as well as a heat gun...or hot hairdryer if you do not have access. WD40 is also a good choice. Be prepared...as someone else already stated...it will take time...dont try to hurry it. Post up some before and after pics when you are done.