constantly warping front rotors
12-30-2016, 07:53 PM
#11
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My latest set is oem. While hard braking heats up rotors I don't think they should be warped that quickly. My original set of rotors lasted 140,000 miles, I changed them because of some scoring from a set of pads that wore through to the metal. The wear indicator broke off so I didn't know until metal on metal. Know nothing but problems.
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12-31-2016, 03:29 AM
#13
Hi, using Tow Haul mode or manually down shifting when going down mountains, especially while towing a trailer will help greatly. Braking all the way down a mountain will surely overheat your brakes and warp your rotors.
12-31-2016, 10:59 AM
#14
I do not think that this is a rotor problem but more of a hub/caliber problem. Have the hub checked for run out (squareness) and have the brake mounting hardware check for alignment with the hub. My guess is that the rotor is wobbling ever so slightly and that it slowly pushes on one side of the brake and this causes it to warp over time. Also, my last Ford had to have the entire brake assembly removed in order to change the rotor/brakes and if it dirt got in it or if was shimmed incorrectly than the brakes would burn off rather quickly. Also, get all of the brake hardware changed....studs and all. A bent or bad stud may not seat properly and may cause the calipers to act funny.
You are not warping bad calipers but they are a sign that something else is wrong. It may be as simple as changing the rotor/caliper assembly due to a bad caliper in which case than what you are hearing is true...powerstop make great stuff.
You are not warping bad calipers but they are a sign that something else is wrong. It may be as simple as changing the rotor/caliper assembly due to a bad caliper in which case than what you are hearing is true...powerstop make great stuff.
12-31-2016, 04:04 PM
#15
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Ce...ake%20Disc.pdf
This lengthy article suggests rotor warping is rarely if ever the real problem.
This lengthy article suggests rotor warping is rarely if ever the real problem.
12-31-2016, 06:30 PM
#16
Cycle For Fun and Health
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Ce...ake%20Disc.pdf
This lengthy article suggests rotor warping is rarely if ever the real problem.
This lengthy article suggests rotor warping is rarely if ever the real problem.
My '04 was suffering from brake judder. Page 3 (prevention paragraphs) of the above article describes break in procedure to be multiple brakings of 60 to 5 MPH with a cool down period in which the truck is driven numerous miles without braking.
I applied this procedure to my existing brakes that had (numerous miles but have no idea how many). After this procedure the judder is gone and the brakes are smooth. Have done this procedure twice in the last 3 years as after numerous miles (about 10,000) the judder returns.
Smooth again with no out of pocket expense and no physical labor.
Front brakes currently have 40,000 plus miles and still have plenty of pad thickness and smooth rotors.
12-31-2016, 06:54 PM
#17
Senior Member
While I do have a habit of "spirited driving" I can assure you NO amount of braking would cause my rotors to warp in just under 3000 miles.
Been wrenching for over 30+ years and the rotors they put on our trucks are nothing less than garbage. No caliper binding. Rotors supplied by the lowest bidder plain and simple and it's nothing new. We had multiple customers come back to our shop repeatedly all thru out the early 90's-2000's with the same problem. I can't count the amount of times I personally resurfaced rotors (on the vehicle) with a specialized machine to alleviate the shake that still does to this day. (google on car lathe) I wore out 10 sets of carbide bits in less than 3 years at the dealer I worked at and then had to replace the rotors due to minimum thickness safety parameters.
.
12-31-2016, 07:59 PM
#18
If you have iron rotors (the majority of rotors out here), that warped-rotor feeling is actually inconsistent brake pad material transfer onto the rotor caused by either improper or no brake pad break-in process when you first installed new brake pads, rotors, or both. Under some heavy braking (on race track or towing heavy trailer without trailer brakes), an uneven or inconsistent pad material transfer between the rotor and the pad will cause vibration. Check out this stoptech article for more info. Unless you want me to, I won't go into detail since they cover it really well.
I've always done proper brake pad break-in process each time I switch out rotors, pads, or both. Even after heavy braking on the track, I've never had issues since the break-in process gets a good pad material covering the entire rotor friction surface.
Relieving any residual thermal stresses on a brand new rotor is also a benefit of proper break-in process.
I've always done proper brake pad break-in process each time I switch out rotors, pads, or both. Even after heavy braking on the track, I've never had issues since the break-in process gets a good pad material covering the entire rotor friction surface.
Relieving any residual thermal stresses on a brand new rotor is also a benefit of proper break-in process.
