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Old 08-01-2015, 12:27 AM   #1
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Lightbulb Complete OEM HID Converion

I'm trying to do the complete OEM HID conversion on a 2014 STX. I ran the 2 wires from the headlight connectors to the battery junction box for the power feeds. Only thing I'm having problems with is the high beams do not work. I know it is either BCM or SCCM programming issues.
When I turn on the High beams I can hear the shudders open in the housings and then the low beam (which is the only beam on HID trucks) turns off.

Factory Non HID trucks turn off the low beam when the high beams turn on.

Factory HID trucks keep the low beam activated when the high beam is requested.

I just can't figure out what line on the AS Built data controls the BCM for the headlights. Has anyone attempted to do this or did everyone just buy the conversion harness? I have access to program the truck with as built data just don't know which line to change, I've tried a few different lines with no success. Any insight would be appreciated
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:30 AM   #2
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Two things:
1. I don't understand what you mean re: keeping the low beam activated when the high beam is requested. On the OEM bi-xenon HIDs (and most retrofits), which utilize a single HID bulb in a single projector, I thought the projector utilizes a metal shutter/shade in front of the bulb during low-beam operation -- and when high-beams are switched on, a little solenoid inside the projector simply moves the shutter out of the way and the bulb’s full-light output is projected... Are you saying that your high/low functionality is just reversed, or is it something else?

2. In any event, 90% of most HID bugs seem to resolved by making sure you're using a good quality harness. This is a must have, IMO: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VbzJsPlVhBc
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Old 08-01-2015, 02:01 PM   #3
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Bought the conversion harness. So much simplicity without trying to fight with Ford's programming. If this was an GM truck..... I would do an oem retrofit for sure...... but these things..... blah...... forget it. The conversion harnesses work well and are about a $100... that is not worth my time. If they failed constantly and were highly problematic then I would consider the OEM route. But they aren't.....
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Old 08-01-2015, 02:58 PM   #4
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Harness is the key, I got lucky and got one of the very 1st few made and haven't had a single issue in 2 years now.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greywalls View Post
Two things:
1. I don't understand what you mean re: keeping the low beam activated when the high beam is requested. On the OEM bi-xenon HIDs (and most retrofits), which utilize a single HID bulb in a single projector, I thought the projector utilizes a metal shutter/shade in front of the bulb during low-beam operation -- and when high-beams are switched on, a little solenoid inside the projector simply moves the shutter out of the way and the bulb’s full-light output is projected... Are you saying that your high/low functionality is just reversed, or is it something else?

2. In any event, 90% of most HID bugs seem to resolved by making sure you're using a good quality harness. This is a must have, IMO: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VbzJsPlVhBc
I rather not have to buy the harness. I've already went through the work of adding the correct color wires from the battery junction box to the headlights. Looks completely factory, uses factory fuse locations. Using the factory circuits for the control side turns off the low beam when the high beams are activated. The high beam circuit controls the shudder and the low beam circuit controls the bulb. I'm pretty sure its the BCM programming that makes it do one or the other depending on the options.
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford2581 View Post
I rather not have to buy the harness. I've already went through the work of adding the correct color wires from the battery junction box to the headlights. Looks completely factory, uses factory fuse locations. Using the factory circuits for the control side turns off the low beam when the high beams are activated. The high beam circuit controls the shudder and the low beam circuit controls the bulb. I'm pretty sure its the BCM programming that makes it do one or the other depending on the options.
No BCM programming required, matter of fact the only thing you can do as far as programming goes is turning on or off daytime running lights, police mode (dark car) and if a 13 or newer can select either the front turn lamps to be DTRL or the heads them selves.

Something must be amiss with your wiring. The only thing the harness does is supply battery voltage to turn the lights on and operate the high beam shutter.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford2581 View Post
I rather not have to buy the harness. I've already went through the work of adding the correct color wires from the battery junction box to the headlights. Looks completely factory, uses factory fuse locations. Using the factory circuits for the control side turns off the low beam when the high beams are activated. The high beam circuit controls the shudder and the low beam circuit controls the bulb. I'm pretty sure its the BCM programming that makes it do one or the other depending on the options.
Ahhhh -- I understand now. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

It makes sense that the non-HID trucks operate in this manner. I had never thought about it, but see your point. My MotoControl Relay resolves this issue indirectly, I guess.

Seems like a major PITA and crapshoot to tackle re-coding. It would be awesome if you figured it out, though.

Could you perhaps splice in two power leads into the ballast wire -- i.e., so the bulbs still receive juice through the low beam circuit, but also juice through the high beam circuit (which currently is turning off the low beam lead) once high beams are activated (simultaneous with the shutter dropping)?
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