scumfrog

I have a 2007 f150 and the A/C just does not get cold like the other Ford products I have owned. I have had multiple Mountaineers and Aviators and they would all freeze you out. The best temp I get from the vents is 50-52 degrees in the f150. Does anyone know what is the expected best temp for a truck A/C? Not just Ford's but the standard accepted best temp. Also is anyone else having A/C problems in their f150? The dealer says the A/C meets Ford's specs so nothing is wrong but I contend this truck's A/C does not get cold like the others I mentioned. The Ford customer service call line was a joke. It should be called Ford's "no customer service phone line" I think Ford changed something with their A/Cs and now they don't get as cold and they will not admit to the problem. Thanks for your input.

whitecrystal1

Very true


Mine doesn't cool all that great either. I have read lots of threads with others also having the same complaint. Last year I told my dealer to check mine while I was having the oil changed. They said the seals in the compressor were leaking. Even with a new compressor the discharge temp (recirculate/max ac) ranges between 47-52 or so. My 02 would freeze you out.

Later this summer I'm installing efans, everyone says they help the ac work better.

scumfrog

What is an efan?

scumfrog

That is interesting. The first dealer I took my f150 to said the o rings were bad and changed those. The truck was bought new in Nov 2007. Hard to believe that. Sounds like they told you the same thing. Should I take it to a A/C specialist that has nothing to do with Ford and have them check it out?

obusnizzle

electric fan.


since your truck is under warranty, go to every dealer in town and see what they say....and have Ford fix it and demand a loaner car.

Ranger2F150

Man you hit the 1st bitch I had with mine. My ranger I traded in on this would freeze your rocks off. I told them I expected 42 degrees in the ducts as other trucks do and the tech. gave me a hint that really works.
1 open windows to vent hot air out.
2. turn a/c switch on just ac "not max" let that cool down cab with a couple of windows cracked
3. then turn on max ac

scumfrog

Heck I can go to work at 5:30 in the morning before there is any hot air in the truck and the temp coming out of the ducts won't get below 48 degress even with it on max A/C and 60 degree setting. The thing that ticks me off is since two dealers say it is in specs with Ford's specs then Ford says nothing is wrong. Yet, I know it is not as cold as the other Ford products I have owned in the past. Heck ,Ford could say their specs are for 70 degree air to come out of the ducts and I guess if the dealer said that is what is occurring then Ford would say everything is fine. I think Ford's specs are wrong. That is why I might have a non Ford shop look at it. Something has changed with Ford A/C systems and Ford just won't own up to it is my opinion. Essentially I feel like I have no recourse and I paid a lot for this truck. That sucks for the consumer.

wde3477

I don't consider myself an expert on A/C systems, but I have dabbled a bit - so I offer some observations and rules-of-thumb from my experiences. Keep in mind that experience is often gained as a result of bad judgement - and I can honestly say that I have gained lots of 'experience' over the years :-)~

* R134 systems do not seem to get the air as cold as the older R12 systems - that is, the outlet air temperatures do not seem to be as cold, but the fan airflows seem to be greater.
* For a quick check, I look for at least a 35 degreeF drop between ambient temp and vent outlet temp on max fan speed. There are limits - if it's only 70 degreesF out, doubt that the outlet air will get to 35 degreesF. However, if it's 100degreesF out, I consider anything below 65degreesF gravy.
* Good airflows are critical. Essentially, an A/C transfers heat - removing heat from the incoming cabin air at the evaporator, and releasing it at the condenser coil up front. The greater the airflows across the evaporator and condenser coils, the more efficient the heat transfer. I think electric fans would be great for 'city' driving - as long as they pull more airflow than the standard engine-driven fan at idle speed.
* Trying to understand the relations between refrigerant pressure and temperature and heat transfer is mind-twisting. Lower low-side pressures will relate to cooler temperatures, however, also relates to less refrigerant mass with which to transfer heat. Also, a 'too low' low-side pressure can freeze condensed humidity - one of the reasons for the low pressure cut-out switch. Taking things to extremes - if your unit put out infinite amounts of 55degF air, the cabin would be more than comfortably cool, however, if your unit put out only a whisper of 0degF air, the cabin would likely still be uncomfortable hot.
* Humidity plays a large factor - high humidity levels means that a good portion of the cooling capacity is being used to condense water instead of cooling the air.
* Don't know that 48degreeF discharge air temp is that far out of line - should relate to about a 35-40psi low-side pressure if the system is properly charged. Gets back to just how much 48degreeF air can the unit provide - perhaps consider running the cabin fan at a higher speed?
* IMO, the best way to charge a system is to evacuate the system, then put in the OEM spec for refrigerant weight. Next best is through the use of gauges on both the high- and low-side - which may also help toward pin-pointing any system operational issues such as flow restrictions, faulty compressor, etc. Low-side gauges only, or just winging it with no gauges is just asking for further trouble.
* Finally, the standard caution - if one is not sure what one is doing - DON'T. Too many ways to damage equipment or suffer personal injury that far exceed the cost of having a professional do the work.

transmaster

Ditto wde' manifold gauges are a must for doing any kind of work on an AC system. Manifold gauges are available from Autozone, Checker, Advance Auto,
go here for information on how to use them, http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/

This is one example of a vacuum pump to vacuum out the system.
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=10036

scumfrog

Thanks everyone for the input and advice. I had to make a short trip today on the highway so I ran the A/C on 60 degrees for 30 minutes with the fan on high and the lowest it would go was 50 degrees out of the vent. It never got below that. Is this considered within specs with the r134 you were referring to Wde? Thanks again for your help. Neat web site.