mokeman3

New member here... Tried to post this in the DIY section, - but the forum said that I didn't have permissions to do so. Also, forgive me if this question has been asked a bunch of times....

Anyways, my pride an joy 1996 F-150 w/ 219K miles runs great, but has developed the infamous real main oil leak due to normal wear. I'm not quite ready for an engine replacement because it runs so well, but I woud like to start parking it in the driveway once again.

So I can't seem to find a definite answer as to whether or not the 1996 F-150 (auto) w/ a 5.8L/351 Windsor has a one-piece rear main oil seal that can be replaced without removing the engine (and just removing the tranny). Does anyone know for sure? If it does (have an externally installed rear main seal), does this basic set of instructions pretty close to what I'm up against ?

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1a/bl640a.htm

The second part of the question is, does anyone know if it's possible to drop the oil pan on this truck enough to change the lower mains (and/or rod bearings), if not, now much of a hassle is (as in: 'is it even worth it'?) to remove motor mounts, and jack up the engine enough to get the oil pan off in-vehicle ?

Thanks!
MM3

ScottyD

Yes you can change it by dropping trans, also have to drop pan slightly. Try lucas oil stabilizer in your next oil change, got my 94 to quit leaking.

mokeman3

Why would I have to drop the pan slightly, - isn't the rear main oil seal on this truck a one-piece seal that you tap in from the outside ?

MM3

Good old Bill

Thought ever since 82 or 83 they were one piece seals. Personnally, I would rather pull a motor than lay in the dripping oil while changing bearings. I wear glasses and every drop hits them.

Kattumaram

Until you get around to changing out the rear main seal add some seal conditioner to the oil and change to Supertech 10W30 full synthetic along with 8oz of STP at the next oil change. This combination has fixed a weepy rear main seal on both my '94 4.6L Lincoln TC and a 4.0L in my granddaughter's '94 Ranger.

High Flyer

my truck leaks a little oil and the more i drive it the less oil it leaks. just take out the two rea engine mounts and stick a jack under the harmonic balancer to drop the oil pan.

mokeman3

I'll try the Supertech 10W30 full synth. Can you give me an example of a brand/product name for the "seal conditioner" that you speak of ?

Thanks!
MM3

mokeman3

Well, as I see it, I'd rather wear a full-face shield and have the opportunity to be able to replace the main, and rod bearings then to "not" be able to do it because of no easy way to "pull" the motor due to no hoist, no motor stand, having to disconnect all the wires, fight with A/C compressors, P/S pumps, exhaust manifolds, and everything else. If I were to undertake all of that, I'd simply "replace" the engine with a long block from US Engines for $1,500. Just my thinking.

MM3

ATOM

with that many miles, i would just let it drip and just wait to put a new motor in. why waste your time now.

mokeman3

Yeah, - yer probably right...

However, I am somewhat curious, - just how long will the engine go anyhow?

And what of the automatic tranny in this truck? - do they ever die, or just keep going and going too?

PS, - I did make the mistake of replacing the filter inside this tranny a couple of years ago - big mistake... (and waste of time).

I devised a scheme to hook 2 pieces thin/cheapo garden house to the ends of the flared fitting lines that attach to the oil cooler on the radiator to drain it. That worked well - draped the 2 hoses down into a 5-gal Homer bucket, started the truck, and it all pumped out nicely into the bucket. Wahoo. (used 2 hoses on both oil cooler lines because I didn't know which was pressure, and which was return).

Dropped the pan, wiped it all out (so where's all the dirt/sludge that I was expecting?) ....

Got the new filter (which was really huge, and quite elaborate), installed it, and put the new gasket on, fitted the pan back on, and started loading it back up with juice. Trying to get a stable line on the dip stick, and scratching my head, - what's going on here.

I decided to peek underneath, and HOLE LEE F*** - total pink/red water fall around the sides of the oil pan.

Long story short, - F-ing Shucks sold me the WRONG gasket, and they were now closed at this point (Sunday evening), and I need to go to work in the morning. Sumbeech.

The new (wrong gasket) had some sort of steel circular standoff spacers around the holes inside the gasket. Well, the oil pan on this truck also has some raised sheet metal spacer deals pressed (swedged?) into it around each of the holes. The end result was that there was a gap between the pan and tranny that I guess I didn't catch.

Anyways, was able to salvage the old gasket which was perfect (and back on the truck, and dry as a bone to this day).

After all of that, the real kicker was this. After I cleaned up, I picked up the old filter which I left sitting on a cardboard box to wick out all of the tranny fluid. I put it up on the bench, and carefully cut it apart to see how it was constructed, and to see how much gunk/shavings might be in it.

I was shocked. Nothing, nana, zip... There wasn't anything INside the filter element, or the OUTside of the filter. Besides, the thing is big enough, and arranged like a vacuum cleaner bag which was is enough to hold all of the junk is every automatic tranny that I ever owned in my entire life, and I turn 49 next Sunday!

So all that work for nothing. Well not really I guess, - I did learn something. I learned just how well built the tranny is in this truck, and that I'll never do that again, and tell everyone with a truck like mine that it's not worth the bother to drop the pan and change the filter. Just get one of those quickie lube places to do a fluid exchange on the tranny fluid at least one in the life if the vehicle (like I did a few years before I attempted this).

MM3