91 F150 misses off and on while driving
#1
91 F150 misses off and on while driving
I noticed for the first time today that my truck while driving starts a sputter as if is missing, then stops, drives fine then does it again. If i get into the gas when this happens, it stops until it is lite peddled again sometime later.
Has really been sucking gas. Only 100,000 miles on it.
New wires,sparkplugs,distributor cap and button. Has had a tune up less than 1000 miles. cant figure if its something in the fuel area or emissions.
If someone could give me an idea what to look for i'ld appreciate it!
Has really been sucking gas. Only 100,000 miles on it.
New wires,sparkplugs,distributor cap and button. Has had a tune up less than 1000 miles. cant figure if its something in the fuel area or emissions.
If someone could give me an idea what to look for i'ld appreciate it!
#3
I appreciate this. Im gonna have to run the truck alittle more to find all these little misfits! I have seen the guys at advance auto come out and test something to do with the computer codes for free. Is this what they are doing. I paid $80 for the auto dealership to run a code search for the check engine light on my car.
As a reminder; My check engine light never came on, Does the computer still carry codes?
As a reminder; My check engine light never came on, Does the computer still carry codes?
#7
Couple more questions with this.
How can you turn off your truck , jump out, run to the front, hook up your jumper wires, run back around to your door and get back in the seat in 10 seconds?
I couldnt do that if there was a large dog chasing me.
In my haynes book it says that there will be three types of test back to back if im not mistaken.
1st. KOEO... For what ever that stands for?
2nd. Continuous codes
3rd. Engine Running test. This is the one I cant seem to figure out. It states to depress and release the brake peddle after the ID code if you have vehical with a (E4OD transmission) Honestly, I dont know what type of trans I have.
Now if I have a (4.9 and 5.0L 1987 through 1990 and 1993 5.0L without E4OD) with a power steering pressure sensor you need to turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn and back. I have a 91 4.9 inline6, So that leads me to think that I have a E4OD Trans.
Soon as I thought the worst was over, Then it through me to another test called the (SPECIAL TEST MODE) that you have to depress the throttle after the contiuous codes. Then depress and release turns the sensors off to on then on to off. For Gods sake why? What is this to do if it doesnt send out codes?
Im taking that each test goes back to back except the Running Test. Is that correct or can you do one of the test each day?
Might sound stupid but Im still worried that Ill put the wrong wire into the wrong place and fry my harness.
How can you turn off your truck , jump out, run to the front, hook up your jumper wires, run back around to your door and get back in the seat in 10 seconds?
I couldnt do that if there was a large dog chasing me.
In my haynes book it says that there will be three types of test back to back if im not mistaken.
1st. KOEO... For what ever that stands for?
2nd. Continuous codes
3rd. Engine Running test. This is the one I cant seem to figure out. It states to depress and release the brake peddle after the ID code if you have vehical with a (E4OD transmission) Honestly, I dont know what type of trans I have.
Now if I have a (4.9 and 5.0L 1987 through 1990 and 1993 5.0L without E4OD) with a power steering pressure sensor you need to turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn and back. I have a 91 4.9 inline6, So that leads me to think that I have a E4OD Trans.
Soon as I thought the worst was over, Then it through me to another test called the (SPECIAL TEST MODE) that you have to depress the throttle after the contiuous codes. Then depress and release turns the sensors off to on then on to off. For Gods sake why? What is this to do if it doesnt send out codes?
Im taking that each test goes back to back except the Running Test. Is that correct or can you do one of the test each day?
Might sound stupid but Im still worried that Ill put the wrong wire into the wrong place and fry my harness.
Last edited by tailgatefisher; 03-04-2009 at 05:33 PM.
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#8
We'd do it
iTrader: (1)
First hook up the jumper. Then go in the truck and turn the key on, which starts the KOEO (key on, engine off) test. The KOEO codes will flash, followed by a separator code, then the continuous codes will flash. Write them all down.
Then the engine running test, which says to run the engine for a few minutes before doing the test. The engine should already be warmed up before doing any of the tests. Then hook up the jumper, then start the truck. Don't worry about what engine or tranny you have, just do the wheel and brake pedal thing anyways. Only do the wide open throttle test if the computer gives you the signal.
I've never done the other tests, never saw the need to. They're special tests to aid in finding some intermittent problems.
Then the engine running test, which says to run the engine for a few minutes before doing the test. The engine should already be warmed up before doing any of the tests. Then hook up the jumper, then start the truck. Don't worry about what engine or tranny you have, just do the wheel and brake pedal thing anyways. Only do the wide open throttle test if the computer gives you the signal.
I've never done the other tests, never saw the need to. They're special tests to aid in finding some intermittent problems.
#9
That makes it alot more simple. Sad to say I have been looking for so long to find out where that jumper wire plug in went to. Never knew it wasnt ever pluged into anything at all. lol!!! Dum me.