Red-Ford

So I'm selling my '97 F-150 and I'm looking into buying an older Superduty and as I'm doing a little research I've come across a couple statements I guess you could call them that I'm curious about.

The first one I'd like to know is I heard somewhere that the 1999 7.3's were fogged or casted or forged or something that the 2000-2003.5 weren't if that makes sense. Was the production of the 7.3L engine that went into the 1999 Superduties different than later 7.3's?

I'm buying this truck (or this class of truck) because I'd like to get a camper or trailer in the near future. We all know about the horror stories about the 6.0L, however I've read and heard a couple things that sounds like the 05-07 6.0's were decent engines, is this true? I know they still have the TTY head bolts that I'd be replacing for ARP studs, but over all did they change the design of the 6.0L in the later years so it's a more improved and better engine?

My next question is about reliability. I know a lot of these trucks see past 500k miles if taken care of properly, however for at least a year of my owning the vehicle, maybe more, I won't be using it as a truck. It will be a "daily" driver with no load on it. I work out of state and have to fly to all of my jobs so not many miles will be put on the truck, however I might have to go drive 2k miles round trip for a "local" job. which truck would be better for this kind of driving? I guess figure I'm not going to use it as a truck and I'm going to be like every other kid who wants a diesel truck just because it sounds cool, which would last longer / be a better fit?

I constantly hear that a diesel truck needs to be worked, it needs to be constantly hauling or towing things. Say I throw a minor lift on just to clear 35's (on stock gears) just so it's like I put a tiny load on it, would that be sufficient? I have no problem loading the toolbox with lead lol but I just want to know if there's a "cheat" persay to working a diesel without towing or hauling things.




What ever truck I get, no modifications will be done to it besides a bumper (and a small lift with 35's if that will help the longevity of the engine). I don't plan on tuning it and I don't want to buy a truck that has a tune on it as I hear that people run the trucks with way too much tuning and destroy the engine then dump it on a sucker like me.

Spamfritter

First off, there is nothing that says you "have to work" a diesel truck. They don't require a load on them. It is a waste in a sense if you don't tow something that requires a diesel there is little point in having one. Diesels can eat you out of house and home in maintenance costs. Getting back to the earlier question: My girlfriend's dad can do everything he needs with a RAM 1500, but he had a RAM 3500 DRW diesel before that which he drove for over almost 19 years. Needless to say he's going back to the RAM 2500HD for the diesel engine above all else. In part because it's better on gas than the 5.7L Hemi, and in part because he just likes diesel. Sure he tows and all that, but not enough to warrant a diesel necessarily. If his RAM 3500 DRW could be used as a daily driver for 19 years+ I don't think you'll have a problem doing the same.


And while many people claim they tow with their diesels, I sure as hell see a lot of them driving around with no load in the bed and no trailers attached to them. You will be fine doing the same.


As for the 7.3L engines, if memory serves there is a point where they stopped using forged internals for some of the parts. The blocks on all of them are cast iron. Different years have differences with regard to what turbo they had or fuel system components. There is plenty of information on those engines out there if you search for it. The 6.0L engine doesn't have the same track record for reliability. The 6.0L and 6.4L engines can be made to be reliable, but in stock form the 7.3L is the more reliable of the bunch. Keep in mind that any 7.3L truck you find will be older than any 6.0L or 6.4L truck. I know the diesel engine itself is the big draw, but as a vehicle you have to look at more than that. I wouldn't buy a 7.3L truck as a daily driver without having a lot of extra cash ready to dump into the entire vehicle. A 6.0L or 6.4L truck may need work on the engine, but the rest of the truck will likely be in better condition.


It's really up to you. You can buy a 6.0L diesel and pay to "bulletproof" it, or you can buy a 7.3L and potentially have to spend more on the truck itself to get it into shape. Buying used vehicles has an element of chance to it. You just need to see what's out there and figure out what is likely going to give you the most truck for your money.

Red-Ford

Yeah I know that the half tons can do a lot of what the bigger trucks can, however they just aren't the best suited for the task so I figure while I'm spending green money, I may as well get the truck that will be best suited for the task of what I want it to do.

As far as 6.0 VS 7.3, from what I see what it costs to bullet proof a 6.0, you can drop a new motor in a 7.3 (or close to) which is why I'm kinda on the fence. Either truck I get won't have any aftermarket mods, but the idea is that I'd try and make it as close to when it rolled off the factory line as possible. Of course I'm not throwing new running gear in it if it works, but I'd be buying a cheaper one with a lot of miles that probably has issues because what it costs to fix those issues I believe will be cheaper than buying a truck that's in better condition and having to hope nothing goes wrong.

Spamfritter

Then it sounds like you've made your decision. The 7.3L is what you are after. I'd still keep an eye out for a good deal on a 6.0L truck on the off chance that you find a really good gem out there. That said, if your willing to do the work to fix a ton of little issues all over an older truck, getting a 7.3L is a no brainer.

Red-Ford

Any idea if the 05-07 6.0's are a better engine than the 03.5-04? I hear that but no one can tell me why. Right now I found 2 trucks on Craigslist I'd like to look at, one is a 1999 F-250 Lariat crewcab shortbed with the 7.3 and auto trans with 157k miles for 14k. The other is a 2005 F-350 Lariat crewcab shortbed with the 6.0 and auto trans with 170k miles for 13k. The 05's price and miles scare me a bit because in that price range for a similar truck they have between 230-250k. It looks like it is a forest service truck or something because you can see were a big decal used to be.

Spamfritter

It never hurts to go look at them. The later 6.0's should be better because the TSB's up to that point should have been done on them. As to the specific changes, or anything after that your guess is as good as anyone's. Sometimes people sell good trucks at lower prices because they nee the money for some reason. Other times it's because people keep looking and run away. You'd have to decide that for yourself I suppose.


I'd probably look, but you are right to be suspicious if the pricing seems too good to be true. Chances are you'll look at it and discern why the price is so low and you are only out a bit of time. It's worth doing on the off chance that someone priced something super low because they are impatient or didn't know the value of what they have. In some rare instances you can score a good find at a great price.

Red-Ford

I appreciate all your help, thank you for taking the time to explain things to me. I have someone coming tomorrow to buy my truck so hopefully I'm going to look at the other trucks tomorrow.

Red-Ford

So I looked at the 7.3 and the guy is trying to tell me that it makes blue smoke because it makes a ton of power rofl. NOPE. I looked at a 6.0L and a 6.4L, I personally can't justify the price jump and the worry to go from a 6.0L to a 6.4L, they both drive the same to me. Sure the 6.4 has a little more power but I don't keep my foot in it all the time and if I did I'd get a Mustang or something.

Anyway, I had a question about the 6.0L. When looking at one, how can I tell if the EGR has been deleted or blocked or what ever it is people do to bullet proof them? How can I tell if they kept the TTY headstuds or if they got aftermarket ones? What should I look for to see if a person actually bulletproofed it, or if they're just saying they did for a sale?

djfllmn

iTrader: (1)

paperwork

djfllmn

iTrader: (1)

And if you get a 6.0/6.4. Do not let any other filter than motorcraft touch that thing also get every service record you can.

Do you really need a diesel? They can rape you in repairs. Say the injection pump gives out. Right there is a grand or an injector. Another 400 bucks