97 7.3 f350 e40d help needed
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97 7.3 f350 e40d help needed
hello i have a 97 7.3 e4od when i bought it the guy said it had been rebuilt 20 000 km ago and he parked it for a year and now it wont shift.
it shifts into p, r, n, d, 1, and 2 but will not change gears in drive.
torque converter solenoid was bad and i changed the solenoid pack
fluid was clean
no luck what so ever also the wheels spin forward in neutral jacked up... can be stopped by grabbing wheel
any help would be greatly appreciated
it shifts into p, r, n, d, 1, and 2 but will not change gears in drive.
torque converter solenoid was bad and i changed the solenoid pack
fluid was clean
no luck what so ever also the wheels spin forward in neutral jacked up... can be stopped by grabbing wheel
any help would be greatly appreciated
#2
RE: 97 7.3 f350 e40d help needed
Hi sullivan92, I am new to this forum and joined when I found your request for help. I am not an expert on E4OD and 4R100 transmissions but, I am working toward that effort.
There are several things both Electrical and hydraulic that could cause what you describe but, we need to isolated it from electrical or hydraulic.
1. Have you scanned for DTC Computer codes using an OBD-II Code Reader ? These codes (even some engine codes) will help isolate a sensor issue or if codes are not present it is more likely a hydraulic problem.
2. Verify the indents in the transmission (shift lever) are in sync with the shifter lever on the column.
2. Have you properly adjusted the Manual Shift Lever Sensor after installing transmission.
Sensors & electrical related to this issue could possibly be:
Throttle Position Sensor
RPM (engine sensor)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (Trans Tailshaft or Top of Differential)
Manual Shift Lever Sensor (bad sensor, shorted wires or out of adjustment)
Shift Solenoid 1
Shift Solenoid 2
Short in / defective Electronic Control Module "ECM" (on Solenoid Body)
Vehicle Wiring harness from Power Control Module to ECM and/or MLPS
Power Control Module "PCM"
Hydrualic Related:
Fluid Level to Low
Filter Seal missing
Filter Dislodged from Pump Port
Shift Linkage (or cable) improperly seated / adjusted.
Stuck Valve in Main Control Body.
Its is normal for wheels to spin like you described (not uncommon) when vehicle is in neutral and tires off the ground where you can hold them stationary by hand. However, the vehicle should be able to drift back or even push by hand (by a buddy with you near the brake pedal) when the vehicle is in NEUTRAL and engine is running. It should never move either way on its own when in neutral on a level surface.
If you can run codes and verify Shift linkage & MLPS adjustment are correct that will help. Codes will help us isolate the issue and its the stating point.
Let me know what you find out.
Bobby e4od.com
Updated:
Remembered that, the EEC Relay could also cause an issue similar to this. It needs to be ruled out as well once codes are pulled and considered.
Also, You can disconnect the Solenoid Connector and run the transmission in LIMP Mode as a test. You will still have manual 2nd and 4th gear. Start out in 2nd and carefully shift to OD position and the trans should upshift. Take note of the insensitive of the shift from 2nd to 4th. Then start the test over by putting trans in OD position. It will again be starting out in 2nd and should shift to 4th (may have to back off on throttle). Take notice to how intense the auto shift was compared to the manual shift. Keep in mind that you need to shift manually from 2nd to 4th in first test under same throttle - moderate acceleration. Does the trans only shift one way and not the other, if so, which one did not shift from 2nd to 4th. Or, will it not go in to 4th at all ?
Please let me know. Bobby
There are several things both Electrical and hydraulic that could cause what you describe but, we need to isolated it from electrical or hydraulic.
1. Have you scanned for DTC Computer codes using an OBD-II Code Reader ? These codes (even some engine codes) will help isolate a sensor issue or if codes are not present it is more likely a hydraulic problem.
2. Verify the indents in the transmission (shift lever) are in sync with the shifter lever on the column.
2. Have you properly adjusted the Manual Shift Lever Sensor after installing transmission.
Sensors & electrical related to this issue could possibly be:
Throttle Position Sensor
RPM (engine sensor)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (Trans Tailshaft or Top of Differential)
Manual Shift Lever Sensor (bad sensor, shorted wires or out of adjustment)
Shift Solenoid 1
Shift Solenoid 2
Short in / defective Electronic Control Module "ECM" (on Solenoid Body)
Vehicle Wiring harness from Power Control Module to ECM and/or MLPS
Power Control Module "PCM"
Hydrualic Related:
Fluid Level to Low
Filter Seal missing
Filter Dislodged from Pump Port
Shift Linkage (or cable) improperly seated / adjusted.
Stuck Valve in Main Control Body.
Its is normal for wheels to spin like you described (not uncommon) when vehicle is in neutral and tires off the ground where you can hold them stationary by hand. However, the vehicle should be able to drift back or even push by hand (by a buddy with you near the brake pedal) when the vehicle is in NEUTRAL and engine is running. It should never move either way on its own when in neutral on a level surface.
If you can run codes and verify Shift linkage & MLPS adjustment are correct that will help. Codes will help us isolate the issue and its the stating point.
Let me know what you find out.
Bobby e4od.com
Updated:
Remembered that, the EEC Relay could also cause an issue similar to this. It needs to be ruled out as well once codes are pulled and considered.
Also, You can disconnect the Solenoid Connector and run the transmission in LIMP Mode as a test. You will still have manual 2nd and 4th gear. Start out in 2nd and carefully shift to OD position and the trans should upshift. Take note of the insensitive of the shift from 2nd to 4th. Then start the test over by putting trans in OD position. It will again be starting out in 2nd and should shift to 4th (may have to back off on throttle). Take notice to how intense the auto shift was compared to the manual shift. Keep in mind that you need to shift manually from 2nd to 4th in first test under same throttle - moderate acceleration. Does the trans only shift one way and not the other, if so, which one did not shift from 2nd to 4th. Or, will it not go in to 4th at all ?
Please let me know. Bobby
Last edited by e4od.com; 02-04-2015 at 05:08 PM. Reason: Added EEC Relay.
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it worked it self in and was working great for a summer but then was going into limp mode now and i think it has a slip code too
i pulled the tranny and looks like it has a new torque converter.
fluid was abit burnt but havent taken it apart yet
any tips would be great
i pulled the tranny and looks like it has a new torque converter.
fluid was abit burnt but havent taken it apart yet
any tips would be great