Something draining battery
01-31-2009, 01:02 PM
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Something draining battery
Hello...a newbie here. I have a 1984 F150, 302 w/auto which belonged to my dad (he bought it new). It's in good condition considering it's age and use but one problem is driving me crazy. Something is draining the battery. It will drain it down fairly quickly too, sometimes overnight (of course what I've been doing is removing the negative battery connection to prevent this).
Here's what I've done so far: (1) removed all the fuses one at a time...no help (2) installed a new alternator...no help (3) installed new voltage regulator and starter relay (solenoid)...no help.
My next "stab in the dark" seems to be to replace the starter and bendix. Could this cause a problem like this? If that doesn't solve the problem I really don't have a clue as what to do next.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Here's what I've done so far: (1) removed all the fuses one at a time...no help (2) installed a new alternator...no help (3) installed new voltage regulator and starter relay (solenoid)...no help.
My next "stab in the dark" seems to be to replace the starter and bendix. Could this cause a problem like this? If that doesn't solve the problem I really don't have a clue as what to do next.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
01-31-2009, 02:49 PM
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DrTito
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what uses power
I would check all the power add ons, such as power windows,locks, and your radio/sterio(if you have a sound system check the blue wire/remote to the amplafiers it turns off/on the units is connected right) all so make sure every thing is off.
It takes time if you have a volt tester it helps.
you said you checked the fuses or pulled them out??
It takes time if you have a volt tester it helps.
you said you checked the fuses or pulled them out??
01-31-2009, 08:33 PM
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I would check all the power add ons, such as power windows,locks, and your radio/sterio(if you have a sound system check the blue wire/remote to the amplafiers it turns off/on the units is connected right) all so make sure every thing is off.
It takes time if you have a volt tester it helps.
you said you checked the fuses or pulled them out??
It takes time if you have a volt tester it helps.
you said you checked the fuses or pulled them out??
Yes...the first thing I did was have the battery tested (good) and to remove the fuses. So I'm sure it isn't anything connected under those fuses. That's why I thought it might be the alternator. I've been told that the diodes can cause a drain if they fail but don't open up. I know this is a bit like finding a needle in a haystack and I'm at the end of my limited knowledge. thanks for the reply.
02-01-2009, 10:24 PM
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Remove neg battery cable from battery. Now connect a test light between neg cable and neg batt post. If there is a drain the test light will be lit. If it's lit start pulling fuses one at a time while keeping an eye on the test light. When you pull a fuse that turns off the light, that will be the culprit. This will narrow down the list to just the things this particular fused circuit protects. Before you start pulling fuses check to see if the door of the truck being open (while you are working) does not cause the test light to be lit. If it does take out the interior light bulbs or keep the door jamb button depressed to eliminate this from lighting the test light. Ditto for the underhood light if you have one. Not as confusing as it sounds and actually a pretty quick check for a faulty circuit. If you find nothing wrong after this test then maybe there's an alternator or charging system drain somehow? Hope this helps.
02-02-2009, 11:01 AM
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Remove neg battery cable from battery. Now connect a test light between neg cable and neg batt post. If there is a drain the test light will be lit. If it's lit start pulling fuses one at a time while keeping an eye on the test light. When you pull a fuse that turns off the light, that will be the culprit. This will narrow down the list to just the things this particular fused circuit protects. Before you start pulling fuses check to see if the door of the truck being open (while you are working) does not cause the test light to be lit. If it does take out the interior light bulbs or keep the door jamb button depressed to eliminate this from lighting the test light. Ditto for the underhood light if you have one. Not as confusing as it sounds and actually a pretty quick check for a faulty circuit. If you find nothing wrong after this test then maybe there's an alternator or charging system drain somehow? Hope this helps.
If all else fails, I'm thinking of putting one of those heavy duty switches (with the removable key) in the negative battery cable. Maybe locating it inside the cab. At least I wouldn't have to open the hood and disconnect the battery every day/night.
Water pump when out this weekend so I've got to address that first however...
02-02-2009, 03:49 PM
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Take the starter off when you get a chance, see if anything is lose or rattles. it has happened to me aswell I rebuilt it.
The grounded key for the batt is a good idea , but I have lost a key before and had to put it all back the way it was first.
The key has a hole, tie it with a small rope. Keep it under the hood close to the ground, it will remind you to check your fluids,leaks, and wires.
The grounded key for the batt is a good idea , but I have lost a key before and had to put it all back the way it was first.
The key has a hole, tie it with a small rope. Keep it under the hood close to the ground, it will remind you to check your fluids,leaks, and wires.
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02-02-2009, 05:16 PM
#8
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Did you try closing the battery drain valve? 
Sorry, just feel like a jerk. Follow the steps that Paul has recommended but don't forget the fuseable links that Sean mentioned. If the test lite is on, current is flowing, not good. Might also consider removing the connectors to all the modules or other solid state stuff. You will find the current draw with this test.
Sorry, just feel like a jerk. Follow the steps that Paul has recommended but don't forget the fuseable links that Sean mentioned. If the test lite is on, current is flowing, not good. Might also consider removing the connectors to all the modules or other solid state stuff. You will find the current draw with this test.
02-03-2009, 01:45 PM
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Did you try closing the battery drain valve? Sorry, just feel like a jerk. Follow the steps that Paul has recommended but don't forget the fuseable links that Sean mentioned. If the test lite is on, current is flowing, not good. Might also consider removing the connectors to all the modules or other solid state stuff. You will find the current draw with this test.
Sorry, just feel like a jerk. Follow the steps that Paul has recommended but don't forget the fuseable links that Sean mentioned. If the test lite is on, current is flowing, not good. Might also consider removing the connectors to all the modules or other solid state stuff. You will find the current draw with this test.Ha...I just can't seem to find that valve. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm still working on it.
