Pulling engine tomorrow.
#1
Pulling engine tomorrow.
Hey all!
I searched and searched, and really couldn't find anything definitive, surprisingly.
Here's my situation. Threw a rod in my truck. 84 f150 xl 302 4x4. I've basically got every single connection off of the engine except the bell housing and tranny.
Took the starter off and can see the teeth. (Found a nice chunk of metal in there too. Haha.)
Here's my issue: I would love to remove the engine without touching the tranny. However, I can't access the bolts for the torque converter as they face the opposite end and my only "in" to the bell housing is the starter opening. So unless I have a U shaped box wrench, I don't see a way I'll be able to accomplish this.
What are your guys' thoughts?
I also have the radiator support pulled so the entire front end is open.
I searched and searched, and really couldn't find anything definitive, surprisingly.
Here's my situation. Threw a rod in my truck. 84 f150 xl 302 4x4. I've basically got every single connection off of the engine except the bell housing and tranny.
Took the starter off and can see the teeth. (Found a nice chunk of metal in there too. Haha.)
Here's my issue: I would love to remove the engine without touching the tranny. However, I can't access the bolts for the torque converter as they face the opposite end and my only "in" to the bell housing is the starter opening. So unless I have a U shaped box wrench, I don't see a way I'll be able to accomplish this.
What are your guys' thoughts?
I also have the radiator support pulled so the entire front end is open.
Last edited by MrGoodbear; 06-12-2016 at 11:38 PM.
#2
What type of transmission do you have?
Since it's an automatic, it's likely the C6 which has an access panel on the front of the transmission at the bottom being held in by 2 bolts. Once removed, you can turn the torque converter using the teeth of the flex plate until you can loosen the nuts holding the torque converter on. They will be tight so you'll need to hold the flex plate when loosening them.
After you remove the torque converter bolts, you will also need to remove the kickdown rod, a vacuum line to the rear of the transmission (vacuum modulator), and also the bell housing bolts. For the bell housing bolts, I saw a video where they used a very long extension (3-4 feet long) to a rachet/air-rachet. This worked good for me.
Oh, and the front of the transmission is only supported by the engine so you'll need to put a jack underneath it to hold it up once you disconnect the engine.
Panel location (Ford AOD trans)
Since it's an automatic, it's likely the C6 which has an access panel on the front of the transmission at the bottom being held in by 2 bolts. Once removed, you can turn the torque converter using the teeth of the flex plate until you can loosen the nuts holding the torque converter on. They will be tight so you'll need to hold the flex plate when loosening them.
After you remove the torque converter bolts, you will also need to remove the kickdown rod, a vacuum line to the rear of the transmission (vacuum modulator), and also the bell housing bolts. For the bell housing bolts, I saw a video where they used a very long extension (3-4 feet long) to a rachet/air-rachet. This worked good for me.
Oh, and the front of the transmission is only supported by the engine so you'll need to put a jack underneath it to hold it up once you disconnect the engine.
Panel location (Ford AOD trans)
#3
What type of transmission do you have?
Since it's an automatic, it's likely the C6 which has an access panel on the front of the transmission at the bottom being held in by 2 bolts. Once removed, you can turn the torque converter using the teeth of the flex plate until you can loosen the nuts holding the torque converter on. They will be tight so you'll need to hold the flex plate when loosening them.
After you remove the torque converter bolts, you will also need to remove the kickdown rod, a vacuum line to the rear of the transmission (vacuum modulator), and also the bell housing bolts. For the bell housing bolts, I saw a video where they used a very long extension (3-4 feet long) to a rachet/air-rachet. This worked good for me.
Oh, and the front of the transmission is only supported by the engine so you'll need to put a jack underneath it to hold it up once you disconnect the engine.
Panel location (Ford AOD trans)
Since it's an automatic, it's likely the C6 which has an access panel on the front of the transmission at the bottom being held in by 2 bolts. Once removed, you can turn the torque converter using the teeth of the flex plate until you can loosen the nuts holding the torque converter on. They will be tight so you'll need to hold the flex plate when loosening them.
After you remove the torque converter bolts, you will also need to remove the kickdown rod, a vacuum line to the rear of the transmission (vacuum modulator), and also the bell housing bolts. For the bell housing bolts, I saw a video where they used a very long extension (3-4 feet long) to a rachet/air-rachet. This worked good for me.
Oh, and the front of the transmission is only supported by the engine so you'll need to put a jack underneath it to hold it up once you disconnect the engine.
Panel location (Ford AOD trans)
I was really hoping for that two piece pull away.
#4
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MrGoodbear (06-13-2016)
#5
Senior Member
A standard transmission doesn't have a torque converter it has a clutch and flywheel. Just make sure everything is unbolted/disconnected, support the transmission from underneath and pull it apart. It's good you have the rad support clear you'll need to pull it straight forward and then up once the shaft is out.
Last edited by Snaggletooth; 06-13-2016 at 03:11 PM.
The following users liked this post:
MrGoodbear (06-13-2016)
#6
Oh well now I feel stupid. Haha. Thank you for clarifying that. I'm new to all of this.
So you're saying make sure everything is unbolted, you're meaning the transmission to the bell housing. Should I leave the bell housing on the block then? With the flywheel and clutch in place?
And I'll need to remove both driveshafts and transmission support to shift the transmission and transfer case back a few inches, correct?
Thank you in advance! I hate being this close to a near empty engine bay only to find another half day of work!
So you're saying make sure everything is unbolted, you're meaning the transmission to the bell housing. Should I leave the bell housing on the block then? With the flywheel and clutch in place?
And I'll need to remove both driveshafts and transmission support to shift the transmission and transfer case back a few inches, correct?
Thank you in advance! I hate being this close to a near empty engine bay only to find another half day of work!