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Old 11-26-2009, 10:57 AM   #21
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Hey I don't know if this will help but . . .










The black wire in the first picture just loops around and grounds on the carb body, the red one runs down and over the intake manifold and attaches into a wire web at the coil.

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Old 11-26-2009, 10:37 PM   #22
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Ah yes! That makes a good bit of sense now. Thanks ever so sir. The pics are most appreciated. Things are going slow on my truck due to it being across town. I can't have it at my house since it does not run due to the neighborhood so its at my moms house. Going over this weekend to drive it and get the TV Rod in adjustment hopefully.
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:17 PM   #23
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Tell me about it... My truck has been sitting for like two months because of a brake line. I want to just buy my own flair tool so that way when the next one goes I can just fix it but I don't have any money right now to buy tools. So it sits. I guess it ain't loosing value just sittin there.

By the way what is a TV rod anyway? I've never heard of it before.


I don't know where your from but in the northeast it gets cold and when it does the electric choke doesn't like it. Usually after a minute or two of running I can just tap the gas and it kicks down from high idle but when its cold forget it.
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:57 AM   #24
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Here are some pics of the TV rod, whats giving me so much trouble. I went and adjusted on it yesterday. It will shift from 1st to 2nd like a dream, but it will not shift into 3rd.
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:01 PM   #25
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LMC has pre made brake lines if I am not mistaken. Might make your task a good bit easier. Some random pics.

After messing with her yesterday, I think I am going to have to replace the water pump, maybe the brake booster, radiator, bleed the brakes and tune the carb. Bah!
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:37 PM   #26
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http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=134
Maybe that will help with your brake problem?
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:05 PM   #27
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LMC rules. I recive them regularly. But $229 is more than I can afford right now. Even tho its a great pre bent set. (we'll put it in the future plans) The line itself is cheap, only a couple bucks and its the one behind the gas tank so its a straight shot, just need to be able to flair the ends and get a warm enough day to be out there in the yard.

I like how your truck has a bed full of crap too. Must be a Ford owner thing...

Your truck looks like a sleeper with the factory wheels and hubcaps and a chromed out motor. You definantly got some work ahead of you thats for sure. Looks good tho, no rotted out fender wells and the cab corners are still there.
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:35 PM   #28
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Well, due to the truck not running right and not being at my house, I have no where to dump the trash. As soon as its running reliably, it will be spotless. Once it is running right, I need to get better fenders and doors and a tailgate from pull a part, then start bondo and soon after it proves its reliable, get it painted a satin black. It does look like a sleeper, and it probably will for a while. This project is proving to take a lot longer and cost a lot more than I had expected. :P
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:22 PM   #29
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Alright, finally an update.
Borrowed an engine hoist, and got the truck into the car port.
Carburetor is off, wires and cap are off, radiator is out, unbolted the ground cable, starter is off, rear end is unbolted and everything possible is disconnected to the engine.

Tomorrow the engine and transmission will be out, then the fun can begin.
New cam, all new seals, new water pump, fresh paint and transmission swap.

I will snap some pics of the progress!
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:16 PM   #30
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Today:
Got the engine and transmission out. Got almost everything stripped off of the block. Tomorrow I will be swapping out the cam, finishing the cleaning process and start painting.Hopefully on Wednesday, I will have everything re-assembled and getting started on putting it back in.
Pics below. I could not get the hole in the back of the heads to accept a bolt, so i simply cut the existing covers off of the tube and flipped them over and mounted them with some gasket sealer. Turned out pretty well and that was the last emissions component left to remove.
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