identify this thing on my truck!
04-11-2009, 10:45 PM
#3
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I have a 1984 w/ the inline six. The picture is of an item on the passenger's side of the engine bay. there is also a piece below the carburator (did I mention the engine is carbed?) with a connection for a vacuum line that is missing the hose. those go together? the vacuum lines and wiring harness on my truck are ripped to hell.
Will the truck start without that connected?
Because I've not been able to get it to run for more than like ten seconds, and even that only happens 1/10 tries.
Anybody know how to set the idle screw and how to set up the choke (electric choke)
Will the truck start without that connected?
Because I've not been able to get it to run for more than like ten seconds, and even that only happens 1/10 tries.
Anybody know how to set the idle screw and how to set up the choke (electric choke)
04-11-2009, 10:52 PM
#5
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Anybody got pictures or descriptions of where it connects to and answers to the other questions about adjusting the carb and setting up the choke? I'd like to try to get it running by tomorrow.
04-12-2009, 12:23 AM
#6
It looks like the MAP sensor to me, it should have 3 wires. Black with a white stripe, orange with a white stripe, and blue with a green stripe. Yes, the truck is carbureted but you have an electronic feedback carburetor, a predecessor to fuel injection. The truck still has a computer which aids the carburetor with information from other sensors. The carb should have a TPS also. The MAP will hook up as I said, but if the port on the carb is at the base that is the same as an intake vacuum port. The underhood vacuum diagram will show where it hooks up to if it's still there, but if it isn't then either area I said is fine. I've heard a good baseline setting for the carb mixture screw is 2 1/2 turns out (I've only done 4 barrels which have 2 mixture screws, so I don't know if the 1 barrel has 1 or 2 screws). Tighten the mixture screw until it bottoms out, but don't crank it in tight or it can be damaged. Count the turns in so you can return it back if it runs worse. Then back the screw out 2 1/2 turns.
04-12-2009, 11:18 AM
#7
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To be honest there are a couple of open ports on the carburator with no hoses connected. I was told that the smog system had been removed/bypassed. I've been able to get the truck to start a few times, but it just sputters for a few seconds then dies. i'm really getting frustrated because there's so many loose plugs on the wire harness and loose/missing vacuum hoses.
How do I set the choke up right?
*EDIT:
here's a pic of one of the open ports on the carb.
How do I set the choke up right?
*EDIT:
here's a pic of one of the open ports on the carb.
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04-12-2009, 12:13 PM
#8
Cap off all unused open ports, it may help it start and will help how it runs. Make sure the electric choke has power, book says with the engine running. Have someone floor the pedal (engine not running and cold) and see if the choke closes completely. The choke has 3 screws that are loosened to rotate the choke housing to adjust, if it's adjustable. You set the housing to the specified mark as shown on the emissions label. If the choke doesn't work properly at the specified mark then the choke spring in the housing is bad or there are problems with the choke parts themselves.
04-12-2009, 06:37 PM
#10
I thought that might be a problem. You can try this, but the truck must be completely cold. I think you should probably pump the gas 3 times first since that usually engages the choke, then twist the housing until the choke just closes. Then start the truck and watch the choke to make sure it opens completely as the truck warms up.
