alwayshear

I have a '86 F150 302 with two tanks. A couple of weeks ago while driving on the rear tank I noticed some hesitation under acceleration. I switched to the front tank and pulled the rear tank down. The fuel pump was missing the small rubber hose that connects to the feed tube.



As I was inspecting the tank I noticed there was some rust and debris floating around in there. I had every intention on cleaning it out a installing a new pump until I happened to find out that they make a 38 gallon replacement for the rear tank.

So I ordered one.



The spare tire needs to be relocated. The 38 gallon tank came with instructions and hardware to modify the new fuel pump. I had to cut the feed and return tubes in order to lengthen them.





I had to make brass couplers because the supplied couplings weren't correct. The wires also needed to be replaced with longer ones.



I will install the tank assembly tomorrow.

bigdreynolds

Your old pump was looking a little rough.
My 04 has a 38 gallon tank. Sucks to fill it up. And at 9 miles to the gallon it seamed constant.
I had no idea you could get one that big for a 86 duel tank. You should be able to cover some serious ground between fill ups !
I need one of those for my 88.
Where did you find it ?

alwayshear

The tank came from Rock Auto. $140 + shipping.

http://www.rockauto.com/

jeepfan93

good call just did that myself last week. Mine started off that the tank it self was leaking everywhere. Turns out the isolators on the straps were worn out and rubbed holes in the top and bottom of tank. Can't complain about the price either. While back there I discovered my shackle hangers were completely rotted away. Springs on bottom of bed. So had to wait for those to get here before wrestling, fighting, cursing to get that F ing tank in. but all done now. Now discovered one of my front coils are broke. never seen that before. Good luck to ya

klricks

My old sender had same problem.
I replaced my rear tank and sender unit last year. I got the 19 gal exact fit tank from Autozone for about $100.00.

I had to replace the filter inside the tank selector reservoir thing a couple of times in a 2 or 3 years. According to Ford that filter is supposed to be a lifetime part. Eventually the rear tank quit working due to the selector valve sticking. I realized what was happening after I pulled the tank and sender.
When the rubber hose part is breached, fuel + debris is sucked through from above the tank strainer. Note that the high pressure pump will still draw fuel from the tank(s) even when the in-tank pump(s) are not working. The HP pump will strain and whine under the load.

I replaced that OEM selector valve (fuel pressure driven) with an after market electric motor driven selector. I also added in line filters from each tank.
I reused the tank emissions check valve but did buy a new 'donut' grommet from the Ford dealer.
.

alwayshear

That pump does look pretty bad, it's amazing that the truck was running!

Thanks for the heads-up I'll make sure that I put those rubber pads back on the straps. Thanks.

I replaced the filter in the dual function reservoir so when I put it back in the system tomorrow I hope it will work properly. Right now I have it set up as a single tank system with an in-line filter running off of the front tank.

klricks, did you wire the electric valve selector to the existing dash mounted switch or did you add another toggle switch to control it? I'm not sure I like the pressure operated valve selector. I may end up getting rid of it and setting up an electric valve.

Thanks guys! I'll post an update as soon as I get it installed and running.

klricks

I used this valve:
http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitem...-driven-valve?
Available on ebay, JC Whitney etc.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product/images/large/G_15712G_CL_1.jpg
The kit came with a switch but I did not use it. I used the existing dash switch, but rewired it to function like the new switch.

I also spliced the new selector valve pigtail into the existing fuel tank wiring harness which happens to pass right by the old selector valve on the frame rail. This way I used all existing wiring and did not have to run any new wires except for short jumpers on the dash switch.
Took a while to figure that out but I think it was worth the effort.

Note EFI engines use the 6 port valve and carb engines use the 3 port version They look the same except the 3 port has the unused ports blocked off.

Not that hard to wire the new switch but you would have to run 5 wires from the dash to the new valve and splice into the existing harness wires that went to the OEM switch anyway.

http://reviews.ebay.com/POLLAK-FUEL-SELECTOR-VALVE-INSTALLATION-2-TANKS-HOOK-UP_W0QQugidZ10000000001014575

Let me know if you want to try this and I will dig up more information and wiring diagrams etc.

Note I ran new fuel lines to the tank and HP fuel pump as the new valve does not have the Ford quick connect fuel line connections. I just used standard fuel line and hose clamps.

Kevin

alwayshear

I didn't have a chance to install the tank today but hopefully I will get it done this weekend.

Thanks for the information on the electric selector valve. I made several different plugs, connectors and adapters in order to continue to use the Ford fuel lines. Here are a few:



I'm probably going to pick up an electric selector valve and see if I can't figure out how to seamlessly incorporate it into my system.

Thanks again for the help.

Bbmtz

Hey Alwayshear, i just ordered my 38 Gallon tank, but i had no idea i had to costomize the Fuel Sending Unit?? Can u tell me what u did on urs to help me out? Im replacing Both tanks on my 1982 F150. Or if anyone else can help out, i would like to hear from You.

klricks

I am pretty sure the 38 gallon tanks come with a kit and instructions for modifying the sending unit.
FYI- The mod does not change the float / resistor swing-arm so your gauge will read full for a long time then drop off quickly.
You could drop the unmodified sender in. You will read empty at 1/2 or maybe 1/3 fuel left in the tank.