Youngblood98

I recently bought a 1984 F150 with a 351W, NP435 4speed, 4x4 with 208 T-Case. It recently began having starting problems. The solenoid on the fender is clicking and the post going to the starter is turning red hot. But the starter wont turn. I have replaced the Solenoid 4 times now, new starter, new cap and rotor, and twin plug ECU on drivers fender. Could it possibly be in the column itself?

504'd

Does the starter itself make any noise? Check battery cables and ground connections. Can you crank the motor by hand? (15/16 with a 6" extension)

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

If the solenoid clicks, then the switch on the column is doing what it's supposed to do.
If the connection for the wire to the starter is getting hot, that tells you there is a problem in that circuit.
Power goes from that spot down to the starter solenoid, through the solenoid, through the starter, to the engine block and back to the battery through the ground cable.
You have a bad connection, a bad wire, a bad starter/solenoid, or a seized motor.
Do what 504'd said and put a socket on the front crankshaft bolt (ratchet on tighten) and see if the motor turns by hand.
If so, it's one of the other things. If not don't waste any more cash on starter stuff.
Connections are the first thing to check, especially the ground.

Youngblood98

Thanks Guys! the starter itself soemtimes makes noise and sometimes doesnt. When we put a screwdriver between the posts and jump the connection the truck will crank and start. But when i try to start with just the key it will do its odd thing. Before i replaced the starter one of the solenoids welded itself together internally(i think) and kept the starter engaged while the truck was running. This actually melted the end of the negative connection on the battery and fried the starter. We striped the end oif the wire and put a new end on it. Then it ran alright for a day and stuff began going wrong again.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Use a test light to check the tiny wire on the fender mount solenoid. You should have no power unless the key is held to start. When you let go of the key, the power should go off.
If that's happening, then the ignition switch portion of things is good.
At that point, it's something to do with the connections, solenoids, power cables or starter.

504'd

If you're melting things, the wires are degraded too much to handle the current. I would replace the whole wire as you can't see the insides. Like $7 at the zone. If you can jump the relay (solenoid), I'm pretty sure it's bad.

Youngblood98

Alright will do, truck is sitting at my girlfriends dads house currently but when i get out of class i will go check that. If it comes back negative does that mean that i will need a new Ignition switch? or somewhere else along that system?

Thanks man, i will go get that changed, the cable from the battery to the block correct? If i can jump the relay the solenoid is bad? or wires?

I really appreciate this guys, im new to fords and the world of electrical XD

504'd

The battery to chassis to block is typically a single wire split open (point of failure) where it bolts to the frame. I replaced mine with 2 complete wires cut to fit. Make sure everything is shiny before you reattach them.

Youngblood98

Hmm ok, i will get those changed thois afternoon and i will let you know how it goes. Do you know the length on the Battery to Block Portion? The Block to Chassis Portion?

1967 Tempest

Cables are key and so are the battery terminals. I recently went through this. The terminals and the wire from battery to solenoid was so bad, that the wire would spark out of the solenoid. Replace the cheapo battery terminals with really good audio system ones and new 4GA wire. Truck starts when a mouse farts on the key.