Misfits138

First post ever so here goes....

Recently purchased an 84 F150 XLT 4 speed for $500. The emission sticker above the radiator says it's 5.8L, and the 6 bolt pattern on the valve covers lead me to believe it's a Windsor engine. However....this engine has been significantly molested, from the engine wire harnesses (some disconnected, some bunt & melted), to the vacume hoses (almost everyone has a corroded vacume hose with a rusty bolt shoved in the end), to the misc zip ties and phone wire (yes...phone wire) hanging from the engine bay. So far I replaced the temp sensor on the intake, the oil preasure sensor behind the power steering pump, and chased some yellow wire that lead to the rear tank and now my fuel gauge works again. The secondary fuel tank straps rotted away, as well as the cross member that one of the straps connects to. I've already replaced over 6 feet of break line, and had a shop do some exhaust manifold/ down pipe flange work.

Aside from the fact that you need a tetnis shot for just standing next to this thing, it also reeks of gasoline.

Somebody strapped an aftermarket 2 barrel Holley with a manual choke to the intake manifold, which I believe is stock (it has a Ford stamp on it and all the holes where all the emissions crap is supposed to be is plugged up or cinched off).

So I research the holly carb and the tuning process. (It was running extremely rich). Tune it with a vacume gauge and a flat head.

Here's the problem: it runs rough at idle, even worse at highway speeds, still smells like gas (although I did only tune the carb earlier today). Has some power and torque at low speeds, but it's struggling after 35mph to build up speed. I already ordered a carb rebuild kit, and that will be this weekends project. What I really want to know is since the advance on the timing is controlled by the computer (not a vacume advance distribute) and all the sensors and emissions crap are missing or broken, is the computer sending my distributer some sort of signal to put it in limp mode or possibly not advancing the timing at all?
By the way, the distributer and coil are factory, nothing fancy or upgraded.

1967 Tempest

Well since it is unknown, I would readjust the floats. If it runs rough, it might be getting too much fuel and actually choking the engine with gas.

Search float adjustment for Holley on YouTube. There are a million videos on that.

What was the vacuum gauge doing when you were adjusting the idle? Smooth? bouncing? Also what was the actual reading? 6" 22"?

Check that the connections from the fuel pump to the carb is not corroded. The rubber parts will turn to mush and leak.

Misfits138

Thanks for getting back to me. Holley sent me a rebuild kit for a 4 barrel carb, didn't realize that till I opened the package. And now since it's opened, I can't return it. $70 down the drain. I just ordered at 2 barrel rebuild kit. I disassembled the carb, de-greased it, ran it through my dish washer, and air dried it. When the kit comes, I'll put it back together imeadiatly. (You would not believe how much grease and gunk a dish washer removes).
The you tube video on adjusting Holley carbs said to dial the screws until you reach the best vacume on your gauge. So that's what I did. Both sides evenly, at engine idle, at operating temp. Of course I'm going to do this again when I put the rebuilt carb back on.

Another thing, I pulled a 1inch spacer off the manifold below the carb. What the hell is that for? Can I guy go ahead and bolt my carb to the intake? Or is this spacer factory and should go back on?

Matthew Burr

spacer isnt a big deal, but it does help keep the carb cool, and straightens air flow. big thing on the old computer controlled advance systems is the oxygen sensor, with it running rich for so long it may just be fried or they may have disconnected it along with all the other wiring issues

1967 Tempest

The spacer is an old school trick to help it run better if you have no clue how to rebuild a carb.!!


That said I have a spacer on my V8 car doing just what Mr. Burr said. It helps the off idle stumble I had and puts the air cleaner directly in the path of the hood opening. Kinda of making a cold air intake.

If there was that much grease and build up in the carb, then the float adjustment and rebuild will be very helpful. The needles and seats must have been full of crap too.

Put your rebuild kit on here for sale with a lot of pictures etc.. A lot of Fords came from the factory with Holley 4 BBL carbs. Might be an easy sell. Also use Craigslist. Get that negative attitude turned around and enjoy the $500.00 TRUCK!

Misfits138

Thanks for all the input. I set the adjustment on the fuel float to factory spec(parallel to the fuel bowl wall). Turned the air/fuel screws all the way in, then 1 1/2 turn back. Made sure the accelerator pump screw was set to speck(just touching the pump arm). The engine cranked for a little bit, then fired right up. The acceleration is much better going through the gears, but there's still a bog. I'm not making any final adjustments on the carb until I time the engine. Got my timing light in the mail this afternoon, I'll paint the marks on the balancer, unplug the spout, let the engine warm up, and hit it with the light. The factory setting is 10 degrees btc. Can't wait to see how far out it is. Like I said, this engine has seriously been molested. The good news is the carb has no fuel leaks or vacume leaks. Bad news is the engine still runs a little rough. I'll update this thread as I go. And thank u to everyone for the input.

Misfits138

Misfits138

Secondary fuel tank rotted out... No seriously, it rotted out and fell off the frame.








Holley 2 barrel before the rebuild.





All gummed up and covered in grease.

1967 Tempest

A bog with a Holley if all other things have been checked is usually te accelerator pump shot. You can get different color cams and change them to see how the engine reacts. Usually the one that is in the carb is fine, but sometimes you need to change it out. It is easy enough to do. Two small screws.

If once you time the engine and get the carb all set up, if the engine still has a bog and the pump shot will not clean it up, then you may have a vacuum leak. Just because the gauge looks good at idle doesnt mean squat. Plus if it has been molested, then some stuff might be incorrect as well.

One other thing to check too, is that if the distributor uses vacuum advance. If it does, you need to make sure that it is on the correct carb vacuum. Full manifold or ported. The manual will tell you.

Dave

Misfits138

Went to set the ignition timing today, but the only marks on the balancer are the TDC line and some small punch hole someone put a few degrees before the line. I'm hoping, I mean I'm really really hoping that's the 10degree mark. I marked it with white paint, marked the pointer with white paint, unplugged the "spout", and let the engine warm up. Found that timing was advanced a few degrees off the what I believe is the 10degree mark, so I gave the distributer a little twist to slow it down, and set the timing to the mark I made. No knocking, no banging, no shaking, idles ok I guess



Really hoping that's the 10degree mark, cause that what I timed the engine to