eljones-o

Posted earlier about truck not starting. Was able to get it to start by removing the ignition switch, reinstalling it closer to the steering wheel, and manually pushing the rod that connects to it after rotating the key all the way forward. Now won't shift out of park when running. Ignition key lock is rotating freely with little resistance, but will allow power to windows, etc. when in the run position. Does this point to a problem with the ignition key lock, the actuator arm, possibly both? I hope it's the ignition key lock 'cause that looks way easier. Many thanks. E

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Sounds a bit like pull the column time. You can try changing the lock cylinder, because it might work and a new one of those in a 30 year old truck can't be a bad thing, but those actuator rods do tend to mess up over time.
I'd try to source another column, then pull yours and see if you can't fix it. Something could be badly worn or broken that will be easier to see and fix when you have the thing out on a workbench. And you can apply some lube etc. and generally get the thing working the way it once did.
It's a pain to have to do it, but it's not really all that hard. Just get some rust buster on the bolts under the hood right now, as they'll be the main problem you'll run into.
Or you can lie on your back for hours and curse and swear and get annoyed as hell and really frustrated. Taking the column out seems like extra work, but it actually makes the whole job easier and probably faster.

klricks

IMO much easier to work on it with the column mounted in the truck.
I have been into mine several times.
Just pull the wheel and have a look inside.

Remove the 2 screws on the back side of the wheel and pull off the 'horn bar'
Disconnect the horn and CC wires if equipped.
I use a 'star' lug nut wrench to remove the wheel bolt then a cheap Harbor Freight wheel puller on the wheel.

Many YT videos out there show how to disassemble the rest to get to the actuator and other linkage parts.