Originally Posted by Half ton

Can't say check grounds enough.

Originally Posted by mlorsung

It was the ignition control module--I had a feeling it was heading that direction--I replaced it and its been starting better than ever for a week now. I did the coil anyhow, and it probably needed it. Do I need to replace the capacitor looking thing (condenser?) mounted on the coil as well?

Thanks for all your help--this was relatively painless and enjoyable.

Michael

Originally Posted by mlorsung

Thanks for the response, I replaced the coil this morning and went to start it again just now, no go. same symptom with the test light... When you said to check the grounds, am I just following the negative from the battery back to where it contacts the frame, or is there something else I'm looking for. I know from reading that in a points ignition if I had 12 v on the negative side of the coil it would possibly indicate a problem with the points. My understanding is that the icm handles what the points normally would. Does what I'm describing t hen point to a problem with the icm? I've also read that these usually fail at hot temps, not after a period of sitting... Thanks again for any and all input.

Originally Posted by Half ton

negitive side of battery should connect to the starter, Bad connection = bad or no start.Some tmes on these old trucks you might have to pull tthe starter to disconnect, clean and reconnect the negitive to the starter.Have you checked the starter solenoid. NOt sure on a 1983 but my 1982 is on the drivers fender by the battery. Good luck.

Originally Posted by Snaggletooth

I thought the negative went to the engine block?