1981 302 crank but no start
#1
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1981 302 crank but no start
Hey guys, I have the 81 f150 and I'm stumped on it. It has the 302. The truck will crank one time and that is it. It doesn't click or anything. I can turn the key back and turn it forward and it'll crank once and that is it. I have replaced the battery, the starter relay, the starter, and all the cables. I'm stumped. Any advice or anything I would appreciate!
#2
I tightened my fan belts so tight on my 84 F150 once, that the starter wasn't strong enough to crank the engine. I bought a brand new battery, new starter and solenoid, installed them, and nothing happened. I finally loosened up my altinator belt and my power steering belt and the dam thing fired right up on the first try. That was a new one for me, I messed up a lot of stuff before, but that chewed aways hours of my life trying to figure out.
Good luck, let me know how u make out
Good luck, let me know how u make out
Last edited by Misfits138; 03-17-2015 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Missing word
#3
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I tightened my fan belts so tight on my 84 F150 once, that the starter wasn't strong enough to crank the engine. I bought a brand new battery, new starter and solenoid, installed them, and nothing happened. I finally loosened up my altinator belt and my power steering belt and the dam thing fired right up on the first try. That was a new one for me, I messed up a lot of stuff before, but that chewed aways hours of my life trying to figure out.
Good luck, let me know how u make out
Good luck, let me know how u make out
#4
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Maybe get a socket on the crankshaft bolt and see if it turns over by hand (with power disconnected from the coil of course).
Could be something binding up and not the starting system at all.
If it doesn't go around by hand you're looking for something that could be stopping it.
If it does go around ok by hand start at the fender mounted relay - jump the terminals with a screwdriver, power side of the relay to the little plug that the tiny wire pushes on to. If it cranks ok there, it's between your key and that wire.
If it doesn't, cross the 2 big bolts. If it cranks now, it's a bad relay.
If it doesn't, it's between the relay and the starter, or the starter itself.
All this is assuming that you did a really good job of cleaning up all the connections in the circuit - shiny clean connections to shiny clean spots, nice and tight. Pay attention to the ground in particular. And you may want to double check that it's the right starter - automatic and manual are different on most trucks.
Good luck !
Could be something binding up and not the starting system at all.
If it doesn't go around by hand you're looking for something that could be stopping it.
If it does go around ok by hand start at the fender mounted relay - jump the terminals with a screwdriver, power side of the relay to the little plug that the tiny wire pushes on to. If it cranks ok there, it's between your key and that wire.
If it doesn't, cross the 2 big bolts. If it cranks now, it's a bad relay.
If it doesn't, it's between the relay and the starter, or the starter itself.
All this is assuming that you did a really good job of cleaning up all the connections in the circuit - shiny clean connections to shiny clean spots, nice and tight. Pay attention to the ground in particular. And you may want to double check that it's the right starter - automatic and manual are different on most trucks.
Good luck !
#7
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Here is a vid of the bypass.
A lot of times the with old electrical solenoids, you may not see this, but it is smoking. The solenoid is opening up withthe starter load. You may not see the smoke, but if you have an IR temp gun, hit the solenoid before you start. If it is way hot after the crank moves once, its the solenoid.
With this scenario the wire gets hot and bends away or separates from the terminal inside. Then it cools off and you get another shot etc..
I just looked at Rock Auto and the replacement is less than $5.00.
Also make sure that the cables are in good nick too. Friend had a diesel ford that never started well. Changed everything. Checked the starting cables 100 times. Finally found a guy with same issue. Water got into cables and rotted them inside out. Replaced the cables and he said the engine felt like an explosion when the starter finally got all the juice it needed.
A lot of times the with old electrical solenoids, you may not see this, but it is smoking. The solenoid is opening up withthe starter load. You may not see the smoke, but if you have an IR temp gun, hit the solenoid before you start. If it is way hot after the crank moves once, its the solenoid.
With this scenario the wire gets hot and bends away or separates from the terminal inside. Then it cools off and you get another shot etc..
I just looked at Rock Auto and the replacement is less than $5.00.
Also make sure that the cables are in good nick too. Friend had a diesel ford that never started well. Changed everything. Checked the starting cables 100 times. Finally found a guy with same issue. Water got into cables and rotted them inside out. Replaced the cables and he said the engine felt like an explosion when the starter finally got all the juice it needed.
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#10
I would start taking a closer look at the solenoid cables from the battery and to the starter and make sure they didn't rust rot from the inside out. If you're satisfied that the cables are in good condition, and the battery is fully charged, and the fan belts arnt putting too much tension on the crank, then go for a new starter and solenoid. Easy to replace and costs about $65. Let us know how u make out