1979 F-150 Custom
#1
1979 F-150 Custom
Hi gang,
New to the forum. Long time Ford lover, 1st time antique owner! Just bought a 1979 F-150 with 60k miles. Rear wheel drive, no rot (hard to find here in the north east), and has not run in 10 years. When I get it into the garage, Im going to start with replacing the gas tank/sending unit, Change the fluids, do a tune up, and get her running again. I'm sure from sitting so long the wheel bearings, brakes, etc will need service. I'm thinking of doing a disc break conversion kit on this truck. Does anyone have any suggestions?? I believe it has a 9" rear end, but have not really looked yet. Also any suggestions on what kind of gas to run in this thing?? I'm not sure with all the ethanol in gas today.
New to the forum. Long time Ford lover, 1st time antique owner! Just bought a 1979 F-150 with 60k miles. Rear wheel drive, no rot (hard to find here in the north east), and has not run in 10 years. When I get it into the garage, Im going to start with replacing the gas tank/sending unit, Change the fluids, do a tune up, and get her running again. I'm sure from sitting so long the wheel bearings, brakes, etc will need service. I'm thinking of doing a disc break conversion kit on this truck. Does anyone have any suggestions?? I believe it has a 9" rear end, but have not really looked yet. Also any suggestions on what kind of gas to run in this thing?? I'm not sure with all the ethanol in gas today.
The following users liked this post:
SFD410 (03-30-2014)
The following users liked this post:
SFD410 (03-30-2014)
#4
Watch for gelled brake fluid in the lines...be ready to replace them.
Good buy and it should serve you well.
This lil town has only 1 gas station that sells gas w/o ethanol and it's $4/gal, but I run it in all the chain saws and tractor and old trucks.
Good buy and it should serve you well.
This lil town has only 1 gas station that sells gas w/o ethanol and it's $4/gal, but I run it in all the chain saws and tractor and old trucks.
The following users liked this post:
SFD410 (04-08-2014)
#5
Shaping up
Thank you for the input so far! It is shaping up! I'm currently going through the brakes. Replaced the front wheel bearings, rotors, calipers and on the back doing wheel cylinders, drums, brakes, new hardware! So far the only issue was having to break the rear brake line to get it out of the wheel cylinders....Nothing I could do and I'm considering it a win this far into it and one broke part! Thank the good lord for my aero-kroil! It loosens anything (except that brake line..lol)!
Tomorrow going to finish up the brakes, rebuild the carb, change the fuel filters, and then I'm just waiting on some parts to finish installing the new fuel tank and we should be up and running (and rolling freely) soon!
Tomorrow going to finish up the brakes, rebuild the carb, change the fuel filters, and then I'm just waiting on some parts to finish installing the new fuel tank and we should be up and running (and rolling freely) soon!
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#8
Brake line help....
Okay, I replaced front calipers, rotors and pads.....no issues bleeding those! Replaced rear brake shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders. I had to replace the 2 brake lines that come from the t-block at the end of the brake hose to each wheel cylinder. When I bled the rear brakes I could not get any fluid out (master cylinder is full) of the bleeders and the pedal never went to the floor while bleeder was open. Any thoughts or suggestions??? Thank you in advance!
#9
Okay, I replaced front calipers, rotors and pads.....no issues bleeding those! Replaced rear brake shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders. I had to replace the 2 brake lines that come from the t-block at the end of the brake hose to each wheel cylinder. When I bled the rear brakes I could not get any fluid out (master cylinder is full) of the bleeders and the pedal never went to the floor while bleeder was open. Any thoughts or suggestions??? Thank you in advance!
Once centered, you can try to gravity drain first by opening the furtherest bleeder and wait. Or you can use a self bleed kit and press very slowly until fluid begins to flow. This is what I did. This should not activate the prop valve. I will try to send you a link on a good procedure to center the valve fi you would like.
Last edited by thebelchman; 04-23-2014 at 03:51 PM. Reason: spelling from phone
#10
Got to love that late 70 F-150s. I've got a 1978 4x4 with a 400 and a 4 spd that was my elk hunting truck for a long, long time until I rolled in 2002. It has been sitting ever since and one of these days I'll have to either get busy fixing it or sell it for parts. Haven't decided which yet.
Last edited by Flags; 05-17-2014 at 04:04 PM.