Time for service. Ideas?
#1
Time for service. Ideas?
I have a 2015 f150 xlt, 5.0l, Super crew, 2wd with 175k miles on it. I have done nothing to it other than a battery, brakes, and an o ring for the coolant y (t). I want to service it but the manual doesn't show anything other than belts and spark plugs. My goal is to get it another 100k to 150k on it with out having to a worry about things falling apart / wearing out. What is recommended that I do? Other vehicles I have that have reached the 180k+ have needed control arm bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, shocks, etc. I want to flush and fill differential fluid, transmission, and radiator. As well as replacing shocks and inspecting all of the other items listed above. I hated playing catch up on vehicles when those things started failing on other vehicles. Thoughts?
I am also looking for recommendations on shocks for a comfortable ride since I put a lot of highway miles on it.
I am also looking for recommendations on shocks for a comfortable ride since I put a lot of highway miles on it.
#2
I have a 2015 f150 xlt, 5.0l, Super crew, 2wd with 175k miles on it. I have done nothing to it other than a battery, brakes, and an o ring for the coolant y (t). I want to service it but the manual doesn't show anything other than belts and spark plugs. My goal is to get it another 100k to 150k on it with out having to a worry about things falling apart / wearing out. What is recommended that I do? Other vehicles I have that have reached the 180k+ have needed control arm bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, shocks, etc. I want to flush and fill differential fluid, transmission, and radiator. As well as replacing shocks and inspecting all of the other items listed above. I hated playing catch up on vehicles when those things started failing on other vehicles. Thoughts?
I am also looking for recommendations on shocks for a comfortable ride since I put a lot of highway miles on it.
I am also looking for recommendations on shocks for a comfortable ride since I put a lot of highway miles on it.
#3
Well, I'm not sure how i missed it before, but I found the page with the fluid change recommendations. 150k for transmission fluid and filter, and rear axel fluid, my guess differential fluid.
#4
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Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
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You should put ALL your truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
(click this text)
Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile &/or signature, & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.
No oil changes, bulbs, belts, tires...? No washing, lubricating, cleaning?
Then you should read & follow the published maintenance schedule AND operator checklist, using only top-quality parts & fluids according to published procedures.
Everything wears out. And since you don't seem to be doing basic maintenance, it's probably gonna fall apart.Exactly what's printed in the owner's manuals. Have you read them?
If it's not on the schedule, and there are no symptoms of any problems with it, leave it alone.
Well, unnecessary parts-changing is a lot more expensive. And since new parts are generally NOT as good as originals, the longer you keep the originals, the better it's likely to run at a lower cost per mile. Every time you disturb things unnecessarily, you risk creating problems in things that would otherwise have lasted much longer.You mean, just like originals? Either leave the originals on (I have some original '95 shocks that haven't worn out yet), or buy Ford/MC replacements.
(click this text)
Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile &/or signature, & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.
#5
Senior Member
Life extension
Sounds to me like you are on the right track with fluid changes and wear item replacement. Am hoping to extend the life of a 2011 w/ 3.5L to 230k miles myself. Maybe more. Truck is at 185k miles now. I normally replace a vehicle at 10 years. Am holding off for now due to option availability, quality control, and prices.
My philosophy is keep fluids clean(ish), change known wear items before end of life, and inspect more frequently. I won’t change out known reliable good components for unknown new ones. Seals, bushings and bearings are run until they leak, become loose, or noisy. Rely on Motorcraft brand parts, filters and fluid for anything important, unless something else has proven better.
Inspect for and replace any worn out front end components along with the front shock work. I use and like Bilstein 4600 shocks.
Inspect or change belt tensioner with belts. Inspect water pump for loose bearing or shaft seal leak. My pump began to leak at 184k.
Check for a worn ignition lock/cylinder. It shouldn’t have much play, mine wiggled enough to turn door chime and dash lights on/off. Also check the little door that keeps dust out of the lock doesn’t hang up when removing the key. It actually operates linkage and lets the truck know when a key is inserted.
Change brake fluid. (Every 3-4 years)
Lubricate tailgate latch mechanism, hood latch, and door latches. Wipe door seals with silicone.
Inspect sliding rear window seals. Discovered mine needed work when rainwater wet the carpet this winter.
Crank spare down and check inflation. Replaced my spare due to age (>10yr), along with tire pressure monitors nearing end of battery life. This was accomplished last time new tires were put on.
If lug nuts are original they are probably swollen and the proper socket won’t fit. Replace with something like Gorilla brand.
OEM O2 sensors on my 2011 are Bosch with a manufacturer recommended 100k mile replacement. Learned upstream O2 sensor data is used to continuously adjust fuel mixture. One of mine failed at 172k. I replaced both upstream sensors then. Think downstream sensors only monitor catalytic converter health so am running these to failure.
Change the PCV valve. Probably the least cost maintenance item behind air in the tires.
Inspect wipers and replace if indicated.
Air diverters around the radiator are probably deteriorated by now. There is a thread in the forums with patterns and tips for replacement. Materials can be found in the big box hardware stores.
Order a new gasket for the high mounted stop light on the back of the cab. Replace it before it leaks and stains the headliner.
If there were many reports of alternator or starter failures I’d rebuild or replace them. So far they seem very reliable. Electric steering not quite as reliable, but too costly not to run to failure IMO.
If lighting is original incandescent, and since you plan to run another 100k I recommend a LED lighting upgrade. Headlights with Morimoto XB LEDs, and fog lights with Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro yellow. I am astounded at how much better I can see at night with these.
So I’ve made a few assumptions to the similarity between models above. Ford may have improved on a weakness in mine before building yours.
I do not expect the next 50k to be as trouble free as the first 172k were. Time will tell.
My philosophy is keep fluids clean(ish), change known wear items before end of life, and inspect more frequently. I won’t change out known reliable good components for unknown new ones. Seals, bushings and bearings are run until they leak, become loose, or noisy. Rely on Motorcraft brand parts, filters and fluid for anything important, unless something else has proven better.
Inspect for and replace any worn out front end components along with the front shock work. I use and like Bilstein 4600 shocks.
Inspect or change belt tensioner with belts. Inspect water pump for loose bearing or shaft seal leak. My pump began to leak at 184k.
Check for a worn ignition lock/cylinder. It shouldn’t have much play, mine wiggled enough to turn door chime and dash lights on/off. Also check the little door that keeps dust out of the lock doesn’t hang up when removing the key. It actually operates linkage and lets the truck know when a key is inserted.
Change brake fluid. (Every 3-4 years)
Lubricate tailgate latch mechanism, hood latch, and door latches. Wipe door seals with silicone.
Inspect sliding rear window seals. Discovered mine needed work when rainwater wet the carpet this winter.
Crank spare down and check inflation. Replaced my spare due to age (>10yr), along with tire pressure monitors nearing end of battery life. This was accomplished last time new tires were put on.
If lug nuts are original they are probably swollen and the proper socket won’t fit. Replace with something like Gorilla brand.
OEM O2 sensors on my 2011 are Bosch with a manufacturer recommended 100k mile replacement. Learned upstream O2 sensor data is used to continuously adjust fuel mixture. One of mine failed at 172k. I replaced both upstream sensors then. Think downstream sensors only monitor catalytic converter health so am running these to failure.
Change the PCV valve. Probably the least cost maintenance item behind air in the tires.
Inspect wipers and replace if indicated.
Air diverters around the radiator are probably deteriorated by now. There is a thread in the forums with patterns and tips for replacement. Materials can be found in the big box hardware stores.
Order a new gasket for the high mounted stop light on the back of the cab. Replace it before it leaks and stains the headliner.
If there were many reports of alternator or starter failures I’d rebuild or replace them. So far they seem very reliable. Electric steering not quite as reliable, but too costly not to run to failure IMO.
If lighting is original incandescent, and since you plan to run another 100k I recommend a LED lighting upgrade. Headlights with Morimoto XB LEDs, and fog lights with Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro yellow. I am astounded at how much better I can see at night with these.
So I’ve made a few assumptions to the similarity between models above. Ford may have improved on a weakness in mine before building yours.
I do not expect the next 50k to be as trouble free as the first 172k were. Time will tell.
Last edited by Barry_Vee; 02-13-2023 at 09:48 PM.
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