Hello guys, I came across this website while trying to research my starting problem. After perusing the website, I realize that I need to be pretty detailed about my problem so here I go. I have a 97 f150, 144k miles (bought used in 05 with 134k), v6, two door, long bed. My rear tire airpressure is around 37psi and my girlfriends cup size is 34C
I have had issues with starting for some time now. Initially, the battery cables were severly corroded, I replaced them in may and it started fine for a while. Then it started having problems again. I replaced my battery in June and it worked for a while again. Before, it would crank but never fire. So, I pulled the starter and brought it in to NAPA and they said the starter is fine. I put the starter back on and it fired right up... for a time. NAPA said it could be my solenoid, which i replaced and it started... for a time. Lately now, it won't even crank. I brought my battery in and it tested bad (even tho' it was bought in June!). So, today I bought a new battery and it still didn't start. I then replaced the ignition switch to no avail. My next step I believe, is to replace the TR sensor (do you need a special tool to align?). I tried obd scanning, but the only code I got was a P1000 (could not complete the test). I am assuming this is because the battery was changed today and prior to starting today, I have not started it in a month or so. Anway, in summary:
-history of starting problems
-fresh cables, which are completely secure
-new ignition switch
-starter tests positive
**next step replace TR sensor
****next, next step, rent a monster truck and run it over.
what are your thoughts? Thanks in advance for reading my novel!
Last edited by crzymtbiker; 12-18-2010 at 01:25 PM.
It doesn't click or anything. i put in a new battery today (well, 12 hrs ago) and still, no clicks or any hint of turning over. TR sensor (Transmission Range Sensor or Neutral Safety Switch) is attached to the transmission and allows the vehicle to start in only park or neutral. Thanks.
A simple test to isolate battery and starter issues. Turn on headlights, if lights go on, beep the horn, with both horn and lights on, try to start the engine. If horn and lights remain on but engine won't crank, problem is in the starter system, somewhere. If horn and lights go out as you try to crank, its the battery or electrical system.
I really like your description, air pressure is always good to know, the 34C, well, lucky you.
Good ol' Bill, I got the rear tire air pressure just for you! I was reading a post from somebody who was also having starter trouble, but he didn't leave any vehicle information. You responded by saying its a good idea give as much info as you can, including rear tire psi. I thought it was funny, so there you go.
Your input is good advice, i will try that today, thanks!
***update, lights and horn still working while trying to start, still not a hint of starter initiating
Last edited by crzymtbiker; 12-18-2010 at 02:03 PM.
"Air pressure" I wondered if that was put there on my behalf. OK, horn and lights test shows starter or circuit is at fault. You know what comes next. What every one hates, electrical road maps. We need a schematic to show what and where to test for power, during the no start condition.
Unfortunately the schematics for my 02 is at my other house some 60 miles away. Will be back there tomorow and will look into it for you. Something comes to mind, these engines have the solenoid mounted integral to the starter, bad move on Fords part, IMO. Have read alot of issues with this type of system. Wire terminals are subjected to alot more corrosion being so close to the road slop kicked up.
To your knowledge has the starter ever had a gypo replacement installed, again their wiring retrofit add another connector down there in harms way.
yes, there is a tsb about a pigtail. I bought and installed one about two months ago. Cost was about $14.00 from a local auto parts house specializing in Ford products. I do not remember the item number.
In my case it was not the stuff discussed here. It turned out to be the fuse panel behind the kick panel on the passenger side. I was forced to replace the whole panel, but that resolved my problem.
By the way, on my 06, that fuse panel has a starter relay that just plugs into the panel just like a fuse. If it failed, the starter would not engage. Does your vehicle have a starter relay plugged into a fuse panel someplace? If yes, you might be able to hear it click when turning the seitch to start.