kpmiller

so when I checked the plugs in sequence last time I just pulled the electrical connection from the coil packs with out removing the actual plugs and that was kinda difficult, but damn, tonight was the hardest spark plug removal of my life! I have work early so I had to do it tonight and it took three hours and I was only able to do the drivers side. That is the most worthless design... I dread doing the passenger side tommorow night. That thing had original plugs in it at 120K. I read in those links you showed me that the plug blow out could be avoided by tightening down and checking all the plugs, so I decided to do so and replace them with some bosch platinum +2 s. I fired it up and drove it down the street just to make sure all was well so far and it has way more zip, and the ticking sound seems to have softened, but is still there, perhaps when I get the other four changed out it will totally be gone. Any tips on this hefty task before me? (passenger side)
Thanks,

whitecrystal1

Sorry to tell you this now but you should stay with Motorcraft or Autolight plugs and avoid Bosch. Make sure you use a torque wrench on them, do not just hand tighten them them. The passenger side should be easer if it's anything like my 02 was.

kpmiller

Yeah thanks, I hope so. I am a part time manager at an autozone and I have heard mixed reviews on the bosch's, most people love them and a few hate them, I have never tried but we'll see, anythings beter than a plug with 120K on it.

Ty

glad I dont have to wory about my plugs getting stuck, I just have to worry about them becomming unstuck...

mhiggs351w

hey man,
let me know if that tickin stops. I replaced my plugs last year and then followed up the project with my hedders, after theat ticking started in the exact same location you mentioned. There was no exhaust leak from anywhere and it definatly sounded internal. Dose anyone think that it could be the lifters? I have heard of a few cases where the lifters would tick after high milege occours.

NGM

My shop is a "Bosch Authorized" service center. My techs HATE the bosch Plat. I mean with that tiny little electrode they foul if you look at them wrong. Get some good autolites or Motorcraft and put them in. These modular motors are also prone to the cam followers coming out. Try synthetic oil with BG MOA and see if it quiets down. If it dosent try a BG induction service in case its carbon on the valves. Another trick to make it easier to change the plugs is to let the air out of the front tires so you can actually reach across the fenders. I did the plugs in my 4.6 in under an hour and they are set up just like the 5.4, which I have done many many times at other shops.

kpmiller

ya know, its weird because changing the plugs seemed to have given me a little extra zip, and softened the ticking, yet its still there. I can't find an exhaust leak, so the next time I get a free day I am going to pull my valve cover and see if it really is a valve spring. It's just a lot of work to even get in there. Ford definetly designed these to be dealer cash cows. I tried BG MOA, and that didn't do much, perhaps I will try the other BG you suggested with the synthetic oil. Thanks for everyones help too by the way.

bander82

Hi, I've got a 2000 Expedition / Triton 5.4L V8 approx. 80k. I've been experiencing the same exact noise, same location (rear engine near firewall). I really feel that it is lifter related (based on its charachteristics of rpm / acceleration etc...) I plan on investigating the noise a little further this weekend. I'm glad that I'm not the only one with this issue.

Ty

I am going to say exhaust leak as well.

whitecrystal1

Try some Marvel Mystery Oil and see if it helps. If it's a lifter sticking it should loosen it up again.