Replaced TPS, Still Showing Code 122
11-07-2014, 12:41 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
While you're waiting for the new sensor, you can try this:
- Key "OFF".
- Disconnect TP sensor. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
- Jumper VREF circuit to TP circuit at TP sensor vehicle harness connector.
- Run Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
NOTE: If no DTCs are generated, immediately remove jumper and go directly to DH13.
- Is DTC 123 or 121 present (ignore all other DTCs)?
Yes -- Replace TP sensor. Remove jumper. Rerun quick test.
No -- Remove jumper.Go to DH11.
VREF is the Gray/Red and TP circuit is the Gray/White.
- Key "OFF".
- Disconnect TP sensor. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
- Jumper VREF circuit to TP circuit at TP sensor vehicle harness connector.
- Run Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
NOTE: If no DTCs are generated, immediately remove jumper and go directly to DH13.
- Is DTC 123 or 121 present (ignore all other DTCs)?
Yes -- Replace TP sensor. Remove jumper. Rerun quick test.
No -- Remove jumper.Go to DH11.
VREF is the Gray/Red and TP circuit is the Gray/White.
11-07-2014, 10:55 PM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
While you're waiting for the new sensor, you can try this:
- Key "OFF".
- Disconnect TP sensor. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
- Jumper VREF circuit to TP circuit at TP sensor vehicle harness connector.
- Run Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
NOTE: If no DTCs are generated, immediately remove jumper and go directly to DH13.
- Is DTC 123 or 121 present (ignore all other DTCs)?
Yes -- Replace TP sensor. Remove jumper. Rerun quick test.
No -- Remove jumper.Go to DH11.
VREF is the Gray/Red and TP circuit is the Gray/White.
- Key "OFF".
- Disconnect TP sensor. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
- Jumper VREF circuit to TP circuit at TP sensor vehicle harness connector.
- Run Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
NOTE: If no DTCs are generated, immediately remove jumper and go directly to DH13.
- Is DTC 123 or 121 present (ignore all other DTCs)?
Yes -- Replace TP sensor. Remove jumper. Rerun quick test.
No -- Remove jumper.Go to DH11.
VREF is the Gray/Red and TP circuit is the Gray/White.
Okay so I tested the resistance with a new meter, and it turns out the TPS is satisfactory. I also jumpered the VREF to the TPS, and did not get a 121 or a 123. Then I disconnected the harness to the computer an the gray/wh is also good. I pulled out the computer next to see if the capacitors were bad as I have read that they could be.
Please see the photos and let me know 1) are the silver cylinders the caps? and 2) do they appear to be bad? They appear to have a light blue coloring around them, and also some possible heat marks on the board. Let me know what you think...
11-08-2014, 11:06 AM
#14
That definitely doesn't look the greatest, but I honestly can't say one way or the other if that's what's causing your problem. Next step (DH11) is to disconnect the TPS connector, turn the key to on (engine off), and measure the voltage. Positive lead on the Gray/Red and Negative on the Gray/White. Voltage should read between 4 and 6 volts.
11-15-2014, 09:23 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
That definitely doesn't look the greatest, but I honestly can't say one way or the other if that's what's causing your problem. Next step (DH11) is to disconnect the TPS connector, turn the key to on (engine off), and measure the voltage. Positive lead on the Gray/Red and Negative on the Gray/White. Voltage should read between 4 and 6 volts.
Making progress...I replaced both of the capacitors, and re-installed the computer. Code 122 is now cleared. I got a 111 for the koeo.
The only other code is 122 which shows up in the memory codes after I started the truck. The obvious symptom is when I start the truck it does not turn over for several seconds up to about 20 seconds. When it finally does turn over it starts right away.
11-25-2014, 03:48 AM
#16
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
maybe need new connector on tps
Can't believe two back to back bad tps . If the volts aren't changing to the computer during test I would suspect a bad connection on one of the pins . I am just an old electrical guy not a car mechanic . Not that familiar with car diagrams , the tps is just a variable resistor the center tap going to the pcm as a voltage signal . If its not changing you either have an open connection on the pins or the side going to the pcm is shorted to ground . Check the condition of the wiring harness especially near hot engine parts. That plug on the tps is the cheapest best bet. I would try to get one from the dealer. It would be nice if it comes with a pig tail . Sometimes the wires go bad in a bend near the connectors. make a good diagram and pictures before you tear it apart. Making your own pig tail is hard because the right wire colors are hard to come by .
11-26-2014, 02:35 PM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for your input. I Changed the Ignition Control Module (ICM) from the incorrect gray part to the correct black part. The trouble code is gone now.
I also solved my intermittent starting problem by finding that the ground to the starter relay next to the battery was loose. I cleaned all of the wire connections, and tightened the solenoid down. Problem solved.
All codes cleared.
I also solved my intermittent starting problem by finding that the ground to the starter relay next to the battery was loose. I cleaned all of the wire connections, and tightened the solenoid down. Problem solved.
All codes cleared.