Power Steering Pump replacement and troubleshooting
03-15-2015, 03:22 PM
#1
Power Steering Pump replacement and troubleshooting
After listening to and feeling the steering in my 08 F150 gradually degrade I decided to look into the issue but was disappointed on just how little information exists on diagnosing or fixing a power steering issue. So here's my two cents:
Troubleshooting:
First of all you need to understand the system to properly diagnose your issue and for financial reasons attempt to fix the easy things first. The system is basic hydraulics that uses pressurized fluid to easily turn the wheels. The pump pressurizes it, the hoses carry it, and the rack and pinion use the fluid to move the wheels. Some systems have electric switches that control the flow on the hoses.
First thing to check are the U-joints in your steering shaft. You'll have stiff steering, but likely no noise issues. A heavy dose of WD40 or other lubricant may solve tough steering.
If you have a loud "whining" noise when you turn your wheel it is likely coming from the pump. It could be due to a faulty pump or low fluid levels. Check your reservoir to ensure the fluid level is at least above the "MIN" mark. If your fluid level is good, you can try to flush the reservoir by either sucking out the fluid with a turkey baster or unplugging the main line to the pump. Use new ATF Mercon V fluid (not power steering fluid). You won't need more than a half quart, but buy extra. You can purge the air from the system after refilling the reservoir by starting your engine and turning your wheel back and forth from stop to stop a few times. If that works, consider yourself lucky and flush again as needed to remove the old fluid. If the whine continues, your pump is likely faulty.
Before replacing your pump, check the condition of your pressure lines. One pressure line attaches to the bottom of the pump, goes around the oil filter and circles over to the rack and pinion. Check it for leaks and drips. A leak in the line will cause many problems and could cause the pump to die if not fixed over time. There are also lines that run from the rack and pinion that return to your reservoir. These are low-pressure lines. If you have an 04-06, you'll have an additional cooler system in the mix. I don't have info on that.
If your lines look good, it's probably the pump. A faulty rack and pinion will prevent your wheels from returning to center after a moving turn, which can also be a result of a bad pump pushing inadequate fluid pressure.
So to replace your pump, you'll need a few tools.
- A pulley puller (rent one). You'll need to pull the pulley to access the high pressure line if that's only what you're changing.
- A cooling fan removal wrench set (rent this too. All of the instructions said nothing about removing the fan or fan shroud, but this will definitely give you more space to work with).
- 1/2" breaker bar or serpentine belt tool
- 8mm, 10mm sockets
- 10mm, 14mm, 16mm, 17mm and 18mm open end wrenches.
- drain pan
- time, patience, bandaids, and beer.
1) raise your truck and support it on stands. The tires don't have to be off the ground, but you'll want clearance to work under the engine.
2) remove your air intake system. Be sure to cover the opening of your throttle body (I used an extra rubber glove and stretched it over).
3) remove the cooling fan and fan shroud by using one wrench to hold the 4 bolts on the fan pulley, and the other wrench to turn the fan spindle off. The fan shroud and fan must be lifted out together. The shroud is held on by 2 8mm bolts at the top of each side.
4) remove the serpentine belt by putting a breaker bar into the tensioner arm and pulling clockwise. Slip the belt off the alternator pulley and that will be enough.
5) with a drain pan under the truck (or some container close) remove the fluid supply line from the pump by moving the clamp higher on the hose. Drain the fluid.
6) get the pulley puller kit and attach it to the out lip on the center of the pulley. Use open end wrenches to turn the puller until the pulley is free from the pump. Set it aside.
7) remove the pressure line from the bottom of the pump (18mm). If you're changing the hose, keep removing it all the way to the rack and pinion. Be sure to unplug the connector to the pressure switch attached to the line. If not, set the line aside.
8) remove the 3 or 4 bolts (10mm) on the side of the pump attaching it to the block. Lift the pump out.
9) if changing the hose, remove the bolts to the metal hangers and then the bolt at the rack and pinion. It'll be easiest to do this through the drivers side wheel well where the tie rod comes through. The hose has a metal bracket that must be swiveled before the hose can be unplugged.
10) install new components in reverse order. Your new pump should have a Teflon seal that will need to carefully be put on the old hose. If you have a new hose check to see if it has a white Teflon ring by the threads. Be sure to install the provided O ring onto the non threaded end.
Once everything is installed, put the pulley on the new pump using the special pulley kit. There should be a bolt which threads into the spindle on the pump and an installer flange that will push the pulley into the spindle. DO NOT USE A HAMMER. This is fairly easy so if you're straining, you're doing something wrong.
Once the pulley is on install the fan shroud and fan.
Then attach your reservoir supply hose to the pump and the clamp. Fill the reservoir with ATF and prime the new pump by turning the pulley by hand to introduce new fluid to the system.
Install the serpentine belt and air intake system.
Turn the engine over a few times to allow the pump to spin new fluid. Start the engine and check for leaks. Purge air from the lines by turning your wheel from stop to stop 6 to 8 times. Recheck your fluid reservoir and add fluid.
Cover your cuts with bandaids, crack open a beer and enjoy your steering! Don't forget to take the old pump and tool kits back for core charge reimbursements.
Troubleshooting:
First of all you need to understand the system to properly diagnose your issue and for financial reasons attempt to fix the easy things first. The system is basic hydraulics that uses pressurized fluid to easily turn the wheels. The pump pressurizes it, the hoses carry it, and the rack and pinion use the fluid to move the wheels. Some systems have electric switches that control the flow on the hoses.
First thing to check are the U-joints in your steering shaft. You'll have stiff steering, but likely no noise issues. A heavy dose of WD40 or other lubricant may solve tough steering.
If you have a loud "whining" noise when you turn your wheel it is likely coming from the pump. It could be due to a faulty pump or low fluid levels. Check your reservoir to ensure the fluid level is at least above the "MIN" mark. If your fluid level is good, you can try to flush the reservoir by either sucking out the fluid with a turkey baster or unplugging the main line to the pump. Use new ATF Mercon V fluid (not power steering fluid). You won't need more than a half quart, but buy extra. You can purge the air from the system after refilling the reservoir by starting your engine and turning your wheel back and forth from stop to stop a few times. If that works, consider yourself lucky and flush again as needed to remove the old fluid. If the whine continues, your pump is likely faulty.
Before replacing your pump, check the condition of your pressure lines. One pressure line attaches to the bottom of the pump, goes around the oil filter and circles over to the rack and pinion. Check it for leaks and drips. A leak in the line will cause many problems and could cause the pump to die if not fixed over time. There are also lines that run from the rack and pinion that return to your reservoir. These are low-pressure lines. If you have an 04-06, you'll have an additional cooler system in the mix. I don't have info on that.
If your lines look good, it's probably the pump. A faulty rack and pinion will prevent your wheels from returning to center after a moving turn, which can also be a result of a bad pump pushing inadequate fluid pressure.
So to replace your pump, you'll need a few tools.
- A pulley puller (rent one). You'll need to pull the pulley to access the high pressure line if that's only what you're changing.
- A cooling fan removal wrench set (rent this too. All of the instructions said nothing about removing the fan or fan shroud, but this will definitely give you more space to work with).
- 1/2" breaker bar or serpentine belt tool
- 8mm, 10mm sockets
- 10mm, 14mm, 16mm, 17mm and 18mm open end wrenches.
- drain pan
- time, patience, bandaids, and beer.
1) raise your truck and support it on stands. The tires don't have to be off the ground, but you'll want clearance to work under the engine.
2) remove your air intake system. Be sure to cover the opening of your throttle body (I used an extra rubber glove and stretched it over).
3) remove the cooling fan and fan shroud by using one wrench to hold the 4 bolts on the fan pulley, and the other wrench to turn the fan spindle off. The fan shroud and fan must be lifted out together. The shroud is held on by 2 8mm bolts at the top of each side.
4) remove the serpentine belt by putting a breaker bar into the tensioner arm and pulling clockwise. Slip the belt off the alternator pulley and that will be enough.
5) with a drain pan under the truck (or some container close) remove the fluid supply line from the pump by moving the clamp higher on the hose. Drain the fluid.
6) get the pulley puller kit and attach it to the out lip on the center of the pulley. Use open end wrenches to turn the puller until the pulley is free from the pump. Set it aside.
7) remove the pressure line from the bottom of the pump (18mm). If you're changing the hose, keep removing it all the way to the rack and pinion. Be sure to unplug the connector to the pressure switch attached to the line. If not, set the line aside.
8) remove the 3 or 4 bolts (10mm) on the side of the pump attaching it to the block. Lift the pump out.
9) if changing the hose, remove the bolts to the metal hangers and then the bolt at the rack and pinion. It'll be easiest to do this through the drivers side wheel well where the tie rod comes through. The hose has a metal bracket that must be swiveled before the hose can be unplugged.
10) install new components in reverse order. Your new pump should have a Teflon seal that will need to carefully be put on the old hose. If you have a new hose check to see if it has a white Teflon ring by the threads. Be sure to install the provided O ring onto the non threaded end.
Once everything is installed, put the pulley on the new pump using the special pulley kit. There should be a bolt which threads into the spindle on the pump and an installer flange that will push the pulley into the spindle. DO NOT USE A HAMMER. This is fairly easy so if you're straining, you're doing something wrong.
Once the pulley is on install the fan shroud and fan.
Then attach your reservoir supply hose to the pump and the clamp. Fill the reservoir with ATF and prime the new pump by turning the pulley by hand to introduce new fluid to the system.
Install the serpentine belt and air intake system.
Turn the engine over a few times to allow the pump to spin new fluid. Start the engine and check for leaks. Purge air from the lines by turning your wheel from stop to stop 6 to 8 times. Recheck your fluid reservoir and add fluid.
Cover your cuts with bandaids, crack open a beer and enjoy your steering! Don't forget to take the old pump and tool kits back for core charge reimbursements.
Last edited by chaoticsanity; 03-15-2015 at 03:26 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by chaoticsanity:
07-26-2015, 05:54 PM
#3
excellent write up
After listening to and feeling the steering in my 08 F150 gradually degrade I decided to look into the issue but was disappointed on just how little information exists on diagnosing or fixing a power steering issue. So here's my two cents:
Troubleshooting:
First of all you need to understand the system to properly diagnose your issue and for financial reasons attempt to fix the easy things first. The system is basic hydraulics that uses pressurized fluid to easily turn the wheels. The pump pressurizes it, the hoses carry it, and the rack and pinion use the fluid to move the wheels. Some systems have electric switches that control the flow on the hoses.
First thing to check are the U-joints in your steering shaft. You'll have stiff steering, but likely no noise issues. A heavy dose of WD40 or other lubricant may solve tough steering.
If you have a loud "whining" noise when you turn your wheel it is likely coming from the pump. It could be due to a faulty pump or low fluid levels. Check your reservoir to ensure the fluid level is at least above the "MIN" mark. If your fluid level is good, you can try to flush the reservoir by either sucking out the fluid with a turkey baster or unplugging the main line to the pump. Use new ATF Mercon V fluid (not power steering fluid). You won't need more than a half quart, but buy extra. You can purge the air from the system after refilling the reservoir by starting your engine and turning your wheel back and forth from stop to stop a few times. If that works, consider yourself lucky and flush again as needed to remove the old fluid. If the whine continues, your pump is likely faulty.
Before replacing your pump, check the condition of your pressure lines. One pressure line attaches to the bottom of the pump, goes around the oil filter and circles over to the rack and pinion. Check it for leaks and drips. A leak in the line will cause many problems and could cause the pump to die if not fixed over time. There are also lines that run from the rack and pinion that return to your reservoir. These are low-pressure lines. If you have an 04-06, you'll have an additional cooler system in the mix. I don't have info on that.
If your lines look good, it's probably the pump. A faulty rack and pinion will prevent your wheels from returning to center after a moving turn, which can also be a result of a bad pump pushing inadequate fluid pressure.
So to replace your pump, you'll need a few tools.
- A pulley puller (rent one). You'll need to pull the pulley to access the high pressure line if that's only what you're changing.
- A cooling fan removal wrench set (rent this too. All of the instructions said nothing about removing the fan or fan shroud, but this will definitely give you more space to work with).
- 1/2" breaker bar or serpentine belt tool
- 8mm, 10mm sockets
- 10mm, 14mm, 16mm, 17mm and 18mm open end wrenches.
- drain pan
- time, patience, bandaids, and beer.
1) raise your truck and support it on stands. The tires don't have to be off the ground, but you'll want clearance to work under the engine.
2) remove your air intake system. Be sure to cover the opening of your throttle body (I used an extra rubber glove and stretched it over).
3) remove the cooling fan and fan shroud by using one wrench to hold the 4 bolts on the fan pulley, and the other wrench to turn the fan spindle off. The fan shroud and fan must be lifted out together. The shroud is held on by 2 8mm bolts at the top of each side.
4) remove the serpentine belt by putting a breaker bar into the tensioner arm and pulling clockwise. Slip the belt off the alternator pulley and that will be enough.
5) with a drain pan under the truck (or some container close) remove the fluid supply line from the pump by moving the clamp higher on the hose. Drain the fluid.
6) get the pulley puller kit and attach it to the out lip on the center of the pulley. Use open end wrenches to turn the puller until the pulley is free from the pump. Set it aside.
7) remove the pressure line from the bottom of the pump (18mm). If you're changing the hose, keep removing it all the way to the rack and pinion. Be sure to unplug the connector to the pressure switch attached to the line. If not, set the line aside.
8) remove the 3 or 4 bolts (10mm) on the side of the pump attaching it to the block. Lift the pump out.
9) if changing the hose, remove the bolts to the metal hangers and then the bolt at the rack and pinion. It'll be easiest to do this through the drivers side wheel well where the tie rod comes through. The hose has a metal bracket that must be swiveled before the hose can be unplugged.
10) install new components in reverse order. Your new pump should have a Teflon seal that will need to carefully be put on the old hose. If you have a new hose check to see if it has a white Teflon ring by the threads. Be sure to install the provided O ring onto the non threaded end.
Once everything is installed, put the pulley on the new pump using the special pulley kit. There should be a bolt which threads into the spindle on the pump and an installer flange that will push the pulley into the spindle. DO NOT USE A HAMMER. This is fairly easy so if you're straining, you're doing something wrong.
Once the pulley is on install the fan shroud and fan.
Then attach your reservoir supply hose to the pump and the clamp. Fill the reservoir with ATF and prime the new pump by turning the pulley by hand to introduce new fluid to the system.
Install the serpentine belt and air intake system.
Turn the engine over a few times to allow the pump to spin new fluid. Start the engine and check for leaks. Purge air from the lines by turning your wheel from stop to stop 6 to 8 times. Recheck your fluid reservoir and add fluid.
Cover your cuts with bandaids, crack open a beer and enjoy your steering! Don't forget to take the old pump and tool kits back for core charge reimbursements.
Troubleshooting:
First of all you need to understand the system to properly diagnose your issue and for financial reasons attempt to fix the easy things first. The system is basic hydraulics that uses pressurized fluid to easily turn the wheels. The pump pressurizes it, the hoses carry it, and the rack and pinion use the fluid to move the wheels. Some systems have electric switches that control the flow on the hoses.
First thing to check are the U-joints in your steering shaft. You'll have stiff steering, but likely no noise issues. A heavy dose of WD40 or other lubricant may solve tough steering.
If you have a loud "whining" noise when you turn your wheel it is likely coming from the pump. It could be due to a faulty pump or low fluid levels. Check your reservoir to ensure the fluid level is at least above the "MIN" mark. If your fluid level is good, you can try to flush the reservoir by either sucking out the fluid with a turkey baster or unplugging the main line to the pump. Use new ATF Mercon V fluid (not power steering fluid). You won't need more than a half quart, but buy extra. You can purge the air from the system after refilling the reservoir by starting your engine and turning your wheel back and forth from stop to stop a few times. If that works, consider yourself lucky and flush again as needed to remove the old fluid. If the whine continues, your pump is likely faulty.
Before replacing your pump, check the condition of your pressure lines. One pressure line attaches to the bottom of the pump, goes around the oil filter and circles over to the rack and pinion. Check it for leaks and drips. A leak in the line will cause many problems and could cause the pump to die if not fixed over time. There are also lines that run from the rack and pinion that return to your reservoir. These are low-pressure lines. If you have an 04-06, you'll have an additional cooler system in the mix. I don't have info on that.
If your lines look good, it's probably the pump. A faulty rack and pinion will prevent your wheels from returning to center after a moving turn, which can also be a result of a bad pump pushing inadequate fluid pressure.
So to replace your pump, you'll need a few tools.
- A pulley puller (rent one). You'll need to pull the pulley to access the high pressure line if that's only what you're changing.
- A cooling fan removal wrench set (rent this too. All of the instructions said nothing about removing the fan or fan shroud, but this will definitely give you more space to work with).
- 1/2" breaker bar or serpentine belt tool
- 8mm, 10mm sockets
- 10mm, 14mm, 16mm, 17mm and 18mm open end wrenches.
- drain pan
- time, patience, bandaids, and beer.
1) raise your truck and support it on stands. The tires don't have to be off the ground, but you'll want clearance to work under the engine.
2) remove your air intake system. Be sure to cover the opening of your throttle body (I used an extra rubber glove and stretched it over).
3) remove the cooling fan and fan shroud by using one wrench to hold the 4 bolts on the fan pulley, and the other wrench to turn the fan spindle off. The fan shroud and fan must be lifted out together. The shroud is held on by 2 8mm bolts at the top of each side.
4) remove the serpentine belt by putting a breaker bar into the tensioner arm and pulling clockwise. Slip the belt off the alternator pulley and that will be enough.
5) with a drain pan under the truck (or some container close) remove the fluid supply line from the pump by moving the clamp higher on the hose. Drain the fluid.
6) get the pulley puller kit and attach it to the out lip on the center of the pulley. Use open end wrenches to turn the puller until the pulley is free from the pump. Set it aside.
7) remove the pressure line from the bottom of the pump (18mm). If you're changing the hose, keep removing it all the way to the rack and pinion. Be sure to unplug the connector to the pressure switch attached to the line. If not, set the line aside.
8) remove the 3 or 4 bolts (10mm) on the side of the pump attaching it to the block. Lift the pump out.
9) if changing the hose, remove the bolts to the metal hangers and then the bolt at the rack and pinion. It'll be easiest to do this through the drivers side wheel well where the tie rod comes through. The hose has a metal bracket that must be swiveled before the hose can be unplugged.
10) install new components in reverse order. Your new pump should have a Teflon seal that will need to carefully be put on the old hose. If you have a new hose check to see if it has a white Teflon ring by the threads. Be sure to install the provided O ring onto the non threaded end.
Once everything is installed, put the pulley on the new pump using the special pulley kit. There should be a bolt which threads into the spindle on the pump and an installer flange that will push the pulley into the spindle. DO NOT USE A HAMMER. This is fairly easy so if you're straining, you're doing something wrong.
Once the pulley is on install the fan shroud and fan.
Then attach your reservoir supply hose to the pump and the clamp. Fill the reservoir with ATF and prime the new pump by turning the pulley by hand to introduce new fluid to the system.
Install the serpentine belt and air intake system.
Turn the engine over a few times to allow the pump to spin new fluid. Start the engine and check for leaks. Purge air from the lines by turning your wheel from stop to stop 6 to 8 times. Recheck your fluid reservoir and add fluid.
Cover your cuts with bandaids, crack open a beer and enjoy your steering! Don't forget to take the old pump and tool kits back for core charge reimbursements.
02-26-2016, 05:47 PM
#5
power steering pump bolts frozen
The instructions are GREAT but when I got to the part about removing the bolts holding the pump to the block, the bolts are FROZEN. Even an impact wrench couldn't budge them Any suggestions?
02-05-2022, 04:56 PM
#7
A bad pump will likely be very noisy with a “whining” sound and cause the steering wheel to turn very hard, but it won’t be impossible.
One thing to check is the U-joint on your steering shaft in the engine compartment. Follow the steering shaft down from the firewall and you’ll see it. These are notorious for binding and breaking. Spray it with some penetrating oil and have someone try to turn the steering wheel. You should at least be able to see the top part move and it should free up a bit if it’s corroded.