Nickel Anti-seize
02-23-2017, 10:03 AM
#2
LightningRod
Save yourself the heartache even looking for it - and the money purchasing it. It doesn't prevent plugs from seizing in the hole anyway.
See this fellows experience with that: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...l#post11799905
Plus in my opinion, ANYTHING inside that (very narrow) space between the sparkplug tip and the cylinder head WILL conduct heat OUT of the sparkplug tip into the head & water jackets, defeating the engineers intended HIGH HEAT RANGE design of that style spark plug. I believe within 1000 revolutions (An important parameter for gauging misfires), the plug tips should be very near combustion temperature. Live monitoring of Cylinder head temperature indicates it takes several minutes for them to even reach coolant temperature, significantly raising the probability of misfires.
To me, a better solution is to keep the carbon cleaned out and away from the plug tip - and change plugs more frequently.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
Just my thinking on the anti-seize issue. One should note: there are those who don't agree with me.
See this fellows experience with that: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...l#post11799905
Plus in my opinion, ANYTHING inside that (very narrow) space between the sparkplug tip and the cylinder head WILL conduct heat OUT of the sparkplug tip into the head & water jackets, defeating the engineers intended HIGH HEAT RANGE design of that style spark plug. I believe within 1000 revolutions (An important parameter for gauging misfires), the plug tips should be very near combustion temperature. Live monitoring of Cylinder head temperature indicates it takes several minutes for them to even reach coolant temperature, significantly raising the probability of misfires.
To me, a better solution is to keep the carbon cleaned out and away from the plug tip - and change plugs more frequently.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
Just my thinking on the anti-seize issue. One should note: there are those who don't agree with me.
02-23-2017, 10:10 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I figured as much.
My car has an aluminum head and ive never put anti-seize on the threads and ive never had an issue getting them out with almost 200k on the engine.
Ill just clean good and go about my day. I have the extractor tool just in case but otherwise dont expect issues.
My car has an aluminum head and ive never put anti-seize on the threads and ive never had an issue getting them out with almost 200k on the engine.
Ill just clean good and go about my day. I have the extractor tool just in case but otherwise dont expect issues.
02-23-2017, 03:06 PM
#4
LightningRod
If its your first rodeo it can be a chore, especially with lots of miles on plugs. Good you have the extractor tool - you'll probably need it. But it works fantastic. Certainly helps to remove the PCM (not unplug, just lay over on fender well) AND remove PCM mounting bracket. First time I did mine - not knowing what I was doing - the new ones screeched like rusty lug nuts - even screwing the new ones in. I'm sure I damaged the internal ceramic on re-installation because I had just as much misfire problems after the plug change as I did before.
After cleaning the carbon out of the extended hole in the head - new plugs screwed in by finger all the way to the seat. Made a believer out of me.
After cleaning the carbon out of the extended hole in the head - new plugs screwed in by finger all the way to the seat. Made a believer out of me.
02-23-2017, 03:23 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im stopping by harbor freight on the way home to get some round wire brushes.
I cant believe that people dont clean it out while the plug is out.
The F150 has 180k on it and I dont know the last time they were changed but I am getting small hiccups while in 4th going up small hills.
The COP's are all brand new so it has to be plugs.
I cant believe that people dont clean it out while the plug is out.
The F150 has 180k on it and I dont know the last time they were changed but I am getting small hiccups while in 4th going up small hills.
The COP's are all brand new so it has to be plugs.
02-23-2017, 10:22 PM
#6
LightningRod
Throw in a full set of new 'boots' with a little dab of dielectric grease inside the plug end to seal out moisture. Cheap insurance if they are old and cracked / brittle.
Keep greasy finger prints off plug ceramic, and clean COP electrical connections with spray electrical cleaner and apply a little dielectric grease around the rubber seal - replace any COP electrical connector that has broken clips. You should have a good running engine again.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Keep greasy finger prints off plug ceramic, and clean COP electrical connections with spray electrical cleaner and apply a little dielectric grease around the rubber seal - replace any COP electrical connector that has broken clips. You should have a good running engine again.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 02-23-2017 at 10:25 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Adam 07FX4 (04-16-2017)
