ggscrew12

Could you have jerk the truck hard enough to trip the fuel pump shutoff.

FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF SWITCH
After a collision, if the engine cranks but does not start, the fuel pump
shut-off switch may have been activated. The “Fuel Reset” indicator light
will illuminate in the instrument cluster. The shut-off switch is a device
intended to stop the electric fuel pump when your vehicle has been
involved in a substantial jolt.
1. Turn the ignition to the OFF position.
2. Check the fuel system for leaks.
3. If no fuel leak is apparent, reset the fuel pump shut-off switch by
pushing in the reset button.
4. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Pause for a few seconds and
return the key to the OFF position.
5. Make a further check for leaks in the fuel system.

Anaxagoras

Thanks for the info, since sunday I have no had the truck as I dropped it off at a dealer. They said they had "gotten it running" . They said my battery needed replaced which it didnt, but I let them do it anyway just so it couldnt be used as an excuse. I was supposed to pick it up monday night, obviously that didnt happen. From what I am told there are still codes that are not being cleared (theft is still blinking but it starts) I should have it back later tonight with a final verdict, unlike most of these things I have a feeling a few items are going to need to be "replaced" which do not need to be, more of a "lets start replacing crap until it goes away"

I doubt it was the fuel as I was just using the normal oem jack and using stands once I had gotten whichever side i was working on up.


All these electronics in cars today and they still cant pin point an issue :/ I know its not the mechanics fault he is just going down the list.. But I was trying to afford the nickel and dime process which is about to unfold (luckily the price for a battery was only around 100, so 35 bucks or so overpaid)

Anaxagoras

Update: They said the truck didnt start this morning, not sure if its truth due to how long they worked on it prior and want to make money on the sale but for future reference to those who might read this.

94.75 Instant Diag
109.00 Battery install (was not needed however)
250.00 for pcm (199.99 on ebay) (They were upfront about their cost since there was no longer an oem so with tax and shipping I would of been paying close to that regardless)
150.00 program / install

They said the board kept shorting and would reset. Supposed to pick it up tomorrow night. We will see.

RLXXI

If I were you I would argue that last charge "program/install" Had they not programmed it the truck would not run and should be included in the price of install. It takes about 15mins to get thru the process and takes no real labor, it's just a security timer before they can press a button on the diag computer and it's done.

Chilton labor guide time to replace the pcm is 0.6hrs, just over half an hour, ask them what their labor rate is for comparison.

Anaxagoras

They wouldnt budge, infact they wanted 18 dollar core charge for my old battery. 673 gone but at least its running.

next time i remove ball joints im removing the pcm, lord forbid if i smack a balljoint a few times with a hammer killing my truck.

RLXXI

That was pure coincidence. There is no way your beating on the suspension could have caused that, I've replaced thousands of ball joints over my career span, going on 30+ years and never had anything like that happen.

Anaxagoras

Time to add on to more stuff, i figure some might enjoy how much dealers can suck at times.

Yesterday on my lunch break it threw the ------- blinking theft, 2 tries later and it started.

I get back to work and about to leave, NOPE 38 tries later over an hour it starts.. around my 26th try I call and it went like this;

1"Yeah i had the black 99 f150 2wd, its having the same issue and im stuck at work now"

2"im sorry to hear that"

1"uhhh so are you guys going to cover the tow?"

2"We cover the tow if the issue is with the parts replaced, do you have AAA?"

1"Yeah, *thinking to myself, Oh so they dont have to pay for the hook up just how much it costs me out of wallet* but its the same problem, you guys didnt fix it"

2"well it could be something else now"

1"Its the same issue, the same one i was having only it managed to start this time"

2"Whatever, ill drop it off tonight, bye"

So guess what? it started for them all day supposidly and didnt run into the issue nor did the computer show them any codes, id like to just say screw it and get my truck back , my money, and have them put my old unit in but for all i know they would just throw a random one in there and then i would be out the money for a pcm anyway as I would have to get it reinstalled and purchase another.


6 full days total it has been in the shop without a resolution and they do not have a clue. Ford rents from enterprise so no way am I getting a loaner car. Does anyone have any idea what I can do? I only took it to a huge well known dealer because I figured it would not be as tough for them to figure out. I know PATS is a pain in the *** but I feel like im getting jerked around at this point. I dont know if they have tried anything with the steering column, i do not know if they even tried to replace a relay. grr