KyBill

I have a 1993 F150 5.0V8 2 w/d automatic, with 112,000 miles.
At times it will run nicely, and then for no apparent reason it will loose at least one cylinder, maybe 2. It looses all power, and I have to run it in 2nd, and sometimes 1st just to get it home. I have owned a lot of junk in my life, but never had one to run this badly. I have had it to a very good Ford mechanic 5 times now, and fishing expeditions are costing me a fortune.
Here is what we have done to date:
New plugs (Motorcraft)
New plug wires (Delco)
New ignition module
New fuel filter
The "check engine light" works, at least it comes on when you turn the key on; then goes out when engine starts. It never comes on while the problem happens; therefore no codes when scanned.
The fuel pump works, at least it comes on and buzzes each time the ignition is turned on.
Not bad fuel, as at least 50 gallon of fresh fuel has been run through it.
It started it's problem this morning at start up, and I tried to get it to the mechanic (20 miles) and let him check it while it was pukey. I got to within 5 miles of his garage, and the frig-gin thing started running right. It will never act up in the presence of the mechanic.
The only thing I know to do now, is just leave it with him, and let him drive it to & from work, to catch it when it is a its worst.

I would appreciate any help and/or suggestions. The bas-ard is driving me crazy!!!!

wde3477

Welcome to the site!

The computer stores any codes, so if the Key On, Engine Off (KOEO) portion of the test was done - any codes that have occurred in the past should pop up. This test is different than the Key On, Engine Running (KOER) test which should yield only the current faults. I apologize if this is something you already know - it's just difficult to gauge new members' level of understanding.

Not familiar with changes between yours and my model year - when you said the ignition module was replaced, I am envisioning the module that plugs into the outside of the distributor. Again, if your setup is like mine - there is a stator pickup module inside the distributor that may be suspect.

Are the distributor cap and rotor in good shape? Does the ignition coil still meet resistance specs.

Another thought is the distributor itself - does the shaft wobble excessively - thinking that maybe too much free play could lead to misfiring.

Going to extremes - wonder if perhaps the fuel injector pulsing signal or the ignition coil signal may be getting dropped intermittently - either due to bad grounding, a borderline ECM, or the like?

rebelfoxrider

Check all your ground straps and wires,could be one loose or only ground out when it wiggles just right. Also the ECM or PCM could be getting some signals that are causing the truck to go into a safe/limp mode,which is used to get you home or to a shop to prevent further damage. You may also want to check all the vacuum lines for one that has come lose or has a hole. Hope this helps!

NGM

Smoke test it for Vacuum leaks, Check fuel volume as that is just as important as fuel pressure, Pull the distributor and check it for excessive play inthe shaft, clean the MAF if it has one. 93 should. Check the TPS to make sure its moving smooth.

jb632bb

hi first thing you should do is a injector coil test. take an ohm meter across the terminals on each injector. the readings should be close on all injectors. about 14ohms is normal for that year. it probably has the ford/bosch yellow top injector. if one is way differen. go get a set of rebuilt injectors/ you can get a good set for about 125. check them its a cheap test. free if you do it yourself. just joined have an 06 5.4 f-150

kickinit

Grounds and Vaccum are pretty much free tests and sound like a good bet to start with.

Alot of things mentioned above in my experience are GO no GO parts means either they WORK or they DONT, theres nothing interminent about them.

jb632bb

i agree but, believe it or not fuel injectors can be intermittent. a high impedance injector like the ones in this truck have a saturated winding. which measure about 14 -16 ohms of resistance, which means when electrical curent is fed into the winding part of the winding is saturated with a magnetic field. if the coil looses this saturation of the field during times when its overheated the coil will become intermitent and the pintle valve will not open at the desired time. causing misses, stumbles etc. if your ohm reading is like 10 or below, the injector coil is definatly bad or on the way out. on a batch fire set up. this one bad coil will cause the rest to overload and you will get all kinds of codes. if your readings are low get a set of yellow top bosch injectors. check e bay about 125 for a whole set. also check for that vac leak.. good posibilaty you have one of those.

KyBill

Got it fixed.....But did I get screwed???

After going through all this time & expense, it turned out to be a faulty fuel injector.
The mechanic checked his computer for labor time and told me 2.5 hours Called parts house and said cost of one injector= $149.95
Total for parts & labor $309.00

The mechanic thought that I had obtained a ride home; he didn't realize that I was still there, and that I could see him.

I took him exactly 46 minutes from start to finish, to drive the truck into the service bay; remove the old & install the new injector.

I questioned the shop foreman about the 2.5 hour labor charge and informed him of the actual time it took. His response was, "He is my best mechanic, and he works much faster than others. We go by the book, and it gives 2.5 hours for the job, and that is what we charge."

What do you think this repair should have cost???

whitecrystal1

Not sure on cost but that's how it works everywhere. That's also how mechanics make good money. The faster they can do it the more they make, kinda an incentive for them.

kickinit

$149. seems pretty expensive just for 1 injector. Granted that might have been from a FORD dealer? either way still high. Yeah on the labor though thats pretty much how it is, if you are a repeat customer or they want you as one they usually chill out on the labor costs sometimes. I paid approx $400 total to do 6 injectors on my last V-6 truck, granted alot of **** has to come off. Living in MD at the time it was impossible to have a nice day or a covered area to do it in myself. Anyway my labor was $280 and a set of 6 injectors with rings and such was $130. shipped. They shop quoted me Toyota parts from the dealer at like $95 a pop. I found a place that I still shop from online
that sold the same injectors from toyota for the above price.

Anyway at least its fixed.... Shop around a little online before you pay next time, IMHO. I actually got mine looked at for FREE got the parts quote, told them wait till tomorrow to work on it, I searched all night for parts, told them wait about 1 week and I will bring my own parts, im short on cash, yippy I saved alot of $$$.

Dang look at me rambling............