Gauge Needle Calibration
08-11-2015, 12:30 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Gauge Needle Calibration
Good afternoon! I own a 1997 F150 Lariat with a 4.6 Triton engine and 2-wheel drive. Recently, my gauge cluster died and I had a mechanic replace it. Everything worked except for the trip meter and the odometer after I got it back from the shop (junkyard cluster install).
More recently, I had some free time and a few extra dollars, so I ordered a new gauge face and some red LEDs. I installed these myself, even going so far as to cannibalize the worm gear from my old cluster to install in the new one to make the trip meter and odometer work. However, I made the boneheaded mistake of not recording the needle positions prior to removing them. Now none of the needles line up properly.
I did some research on the forum and found some helpful advice that has allowed me to correct everything except for the fuel gauge. My understanding, is that I should start turn the key forward half-way until the electric system starts. The spindle will move to the proper location relative to the amount of gasoline I have in the tank. I just stick the needle on, turn off the key, and wait to see where the needle settles. I repeat this until the needle stops at zero.
My problem is in the "stops at zero" part. I've got it pretty much dialed on, and the needle, when cranked, moves to what I think is the proper place relative to my fuel. However, every time I shut off the key and let the needle return to zero, it will continue past that mark after about a 90 second wait at zero. It's almost like it stops at the mark to taunt me before dropping precipitously until it points nearly straight down on the gauge face. How do I go about solving this? If I take the needle off and adjust it based on the delayed drop, then the needle points far too high on the gas gauge when I crank up. Put it where I think the fuel level is at and so that it makes that pause at zero, and it will just start to drop again after a few moments at rest.
The needles I'm using are a two-piece deal and are chincy (didn't realize it at time of purchase). The needle itself slides onto the spindle and then a cap slides on top of the needle. The cap has a little plastic "stop" that also slides through the needle to keep it from traveling past either end of the markings on the gauge. However, due to the cheap nature of the cap, the stop breaks easily. I am keeping the cap and needle separated during calibration to avoid breaking the cap's stop.
I guess another question worth asking is this: Is it normal for the needle to drop like I described, and is that the function of the little "stop" on the cap? To prevent the needle from continuing to drop after it "zeros?" If so, then I think I've got this thing dialed in correctly. If not, then I really am lost.
Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you very much!
More recently, I had some free time and a few extra dollars, so I ordered a new gauge face and some red LEDs. I installed these myself, even going so far as to cannibalize the worm gear from my old cluster to install in the new one to make the trip meter and odometer work. However, I made the boneheaded mistake of not recording the needle positions prior to removing them. Now none of the needles line up properly.
I did some research on the forum and found some helpful advice that has allowed me to correct everything except for the fuel gauge. My understanding, is that I should start turn the key forward half-way until the electric system starts. The spindle will move to the proper location relative to the amount of gasoline I have in the tank. I just stick the needle on, turn off the key, and wait to see where the needle settles. I repeat this until the needle stops at zero.
My problem is in the "stops at zero" part. I've got it pretty much dialed on, and the needle, when cranked, moves to what I think is the proper place relative to my fuel. However, every time I shut off the key and let the needle return to zero, it will continue past that mark after about a 90 second wait at zero. It's almost like it stops at the mark to taunt me before dropping precipitously until it points nearly straight down on the gauge face. How do I go about solving this? If I take the needle off and adjust it based on the delayed drop, then the needle points far too high on the gas gauge when I crank up. Put it where I think the fuel level is at and so that it makes that pause at zero, and it will just start to drop again after a few moments at rest.
The needles I'm using are a two-piece deal and are chincy (didn't realize it at time of purchase). The needle itself slides onto the spindle and then a cap slides on top of the needle. The cap has a little plastic "stop" that also slides through the needle to keep it from traveling past either end of the markings on the gauge. However, due to the cheap nature of the cap, the stop breaks easily. I am keeping the cap and needle separated during calibration to avoid breaking the cap's stop.
I guess another question worth asking is this: Is it normal for the needle to drop like I described, and is that the function of the little "stop" on the cap? To prevent the needle from continuing to drop after it "zeros?" If so, then I think I've got this thing dialed in correctly. If not, then I really am lost.
Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you very much!
08-11-2015, 01:03 PM
#2
Member
Thread Starter
I have a new wrinkle. I thought I had solved all the needles except the fuel gauge, but the tach isn't working. I just finished setting it and cranked up the truck, but the needle will not move. I can freely move it by hand, but it will not respond to the engine. Does anyone have a fix for this?
Thanks!
Thanks!
08-11-2015, 01:55 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Fixed the tach - it was binding on part of the cluster. It works fine now and I think I've got it calibrated properly.
However, I'm still having trouble with the fuel gauge. It's the last one to go too. With just the needle, it behaves like I described in my original post. However, when I combine the cap with the needle, it moves up instead of down. Same behavior, different direction of movement. It's really got me scratching my head.
I had thought that it might be the fuel system being depressurized which caused the delayed downward movement of the needle I originally described. But since it's moving up now that I put the cap on it, I just don't know what to make of it. I don't recall my old cluster behaving this way at all.
However, I'm still having trouble with the fuel gauge. It's the last one to go too. With just the needle, it behaves like I described in my original post. However, when I combine the cap with the needle, it moves up instead of down. Same behavior, different direction of movement. It's really got me scratching my head.
I had thought that it might be the fuel system being depressurized which caused the delayed downward movement of the needle I originally described. But since it's moving up now that I put the cap on it, I just don't know what to make of it. I don't recall my old cluster behaving this way at all.
08-17-2015, 04:51 PM
#6
As I recall that cluster is non user serviceable and requires special equipment to properly calibrate. When I worked at the dealer we would always send the cluster out to someone (no idea who) maybe Ford? And they would send it back repaired or recommend replacing with new.
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Kerrdog (08-18-2015)
08-18-2015, 11:04 AM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
I was able to get all of the gauges calibrated correctly on my own by turning the key to accessory and setting the tach, temps, and speed to zero. The battery I set based on memory. The speed is within 3 mph of what my GPS says, which is the same as what it was before I took the cluster apart.
To solve the gas, I drove into town and topped off the tank, then put the needle on "Full" right there at the pump. I'm watching it now to make sure that it tracks my fuel consumption properly. If it does, I'll button it all back up and call it good.
To solve the gas, I drove into town and topped off the tank, then put the needle on "Full" right there at the pump. I'm watching it now to make sure that it tracks my fuel consumption properly. If it does, I'll button it all back up and call it good.