e5n_devildog

A guide on bank one was broken. I was able to get all of the pieces but some smaller ones may have fallen into pan prior to me cracking the timing cover opened. I will drop the pan and check it out.

Any advice for dropping on the pan on the 4x4. Not sure if there are any special considerations with the front dif.

lewissa81

You want to drop the swaybar, crossmember, and the front diff. Even after that you'll need patience to guide it out. You don't have to take the front diff. out completely, just use a big pry bar to pull it down. It really helps to have someone helping you with that.

e5n_devildog

Wow, sounds like I am in for some fun again with this one.

lewissa81

Haha, yea, if you don't have to drop that oil pan, then don't. Unfortunately when it comes to the possibility of something blocking the pickup tube, it's far better to be safe than sorry. The best case scenario is that this is a waste of time, and there's nothing there. If the tube is blocked, there's no telling if any extensive damage has already been done.

e5n_devildog

Looks like I need to grab a case of beer because I have a plan for the weekend. Thanks for the advice.

redfishtd

I am looking at the lockout from livermor but haven't pulled the trigger( 700 bucks.} . I am looking at ---do I need the timing guides and seal issue , I have heard the seals can cause the phasors low oil . Good luck getting to your final fix.
Did you do seals , how were your guides. Miles?? Do you intend to put the lockouts back.

e5n_devildog

The oil pressure increase was actually needed because I had yet to change out the vtc solenoid. Once the vtc solenoids were swapped out I was about to bring the oil weight back down.

To be completely honest if I had the whole process to do over I would buy cam phasers and stick with the factory setup. New cam phasers will last you likely another 100K which with a higher mileage engine make it easier to trouble shoot other issues down the road when everything is factory.

All that being said I still drool over the livernous option because it permanently eliminates the phaser issues.

When I changed out the timing set chains, tensioners, guides the tensioners came with new seals. I just followed the torque specs and no tensioner leak. alldatadiy.com is a life saver during this process.

I currently have 139K on the motor and did the swap about 3K ago.

Let me know if you have any questions on the process as I have taken the motor down and did the entire setup three times (You have every spec memorized by the end of the second run).

Livernois Motorsports

The cam phaser noise repair kit that comes with our lockouts would definitely be a permanent solution. We sell hundreds of these kits a month because there are so many horror stories of guys that have spent thousands of dollars and countless labor hours replacing the phasers and components to find the issue comes back endlessly. Some customers tell us they replaced them twice and third time the shop said the only other option an engine. Then they spend the money for the kit, do the job themselves in about 6 hours through the valve covers and boom problem solved for good. Saved thousands and not to mention the amount of frustration from a reoccurring issue.

Guys,
Click here for more information on this issue and some how to videos to repair the phaser issue for good.

tcp2

I already run a tune on my 2009. Does your phaser delete tune overwrite it or just piggyback on it and remove OBD errors?

e5n_devildog

If you have the funds I would go for the Livernois setup. Fixes an issue with an otherwise great motor. I would suggest however that if your timing set has not been replaced that you do them at the same time. The guides on the factory timing set tend to break off and fall in the oil pan. The additional time and $150 or so for the timing set are worth it to know the problem is gone for good.